Re: [Paddlewise] Wave surf simulation

From: Niels Blaauw <niels.blaauw_at_wanadoo.nl>
Date: Fri, 01 Nov 2002 13:51:28 -0800
Falk Herwig wrote:
> 
> One thing I noticed: I would slide off the waves after a
> fairly
> short time, which I think is because the waves in your simulation do not
> propagate
> strictly perpendicular to the wavefront (maybe the line that defines the
> crest).
> 

I think that the simulation is acurate on that point: Actual waves from
a ship do not move perpendicular to the wavefront. I might be wrong. If
you have tried to surf actual waves, you might have noticed that a wave
you're riding "disappears" beneath you, to resurface a little further
behind you. I looks like the waves move more quickly then the waveset,
so that in a set of 3 waves the first one disappears, while behind the
last wave a new one is formed. This might be the right explanation for
the phenomina, it might also be that the waves just don't move in the
direction you're expecting, but move like in my simulation.

The truth is out there. Who's going to find it for us?

Niels.
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Received on Fri Nov 01 2002 - 05:02:58 PST

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