Re: [Paddlewise] Excessive Weather Cocking (or is it Fairy gliding with the wind)

From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
Date: Tue, 10 Dec 2002 03:50:42 -0800
I wrote:
> How can I be opposed to something that I can't avoid (at least if I want
to
> go somewhere in a kayak when the wind is blowing from the side)?

Mike wrote:
>>>>>>>I didn't say you are opposed to the wind but to wind ferries.  You
then go
on to say how bad wind ferries are.  I think you've demonstrated your
position.>>>>>>>>

I said no such thing, I suggest you read what I said more carefully. For
example in the lines you quoted above I was writing about wind ferries (not
wind) as one can not avoid wind ferries whenever paddling across the wind at
whatever angle if one maintains a direct line true course.


> You seem to
> be implying that there is some advantage to be gained from this wind.

>>>>>>There is no advantage, however, I can mitigate the effects.  There's
no
point in fighting the wind if you don't have to.  Let's note a few things:

You can't avoid fighting the wind, you do have to. Your only choice is how
you are going to do it. You just agreed that "there is no advantage".

>>>>- - The faster you paddle, the greater the weathercocking moment.

Agreed (if there is a unbalanced wind/water couple in your craft).

>>>>- - The greater the angle to the wind, up to 90 degrees, the greater the
  weathercocking moment.

 I think weathercocking is even greater angling somewhat downwind (beyond 90
degrees) since the wind pressure is higher on whatever end of a long objects
is angled into the wind. Often though, paddlers confuse the broaching that
happens in waves with weathercocking in this angled downwind condition when
waves are present.

>>>>- - The greater the angle to the wind, up to 90 degrees, the greater the
  leeward drift of the kayak (ie, you get blown off course).

180 degrees would blow one down wind a lot faster because the hull in the
water moves so much easier that way. From 0 to 90 degrees I'd agree with you
but there are only small differences in drift rate between 45 to 90 degrees.

>>>>>Since my objective is to stay on course and minimize the energy I use,
I
should point up into the wind and not push on at high speed (consistent
with other objectives like arrival time).<<<<<<

It is not clear from this if you are talking about the rate of energy use
(what you feel) or the total energy use (which multiplies the rate by the
time it is applied). Everything I wrote about in the last post was about a
kayak that stayed on a true course directly to the destination (whatever the
angle it was facing towards) across a side wind with no waves present.

>>>>>>>Going off course increases the distance travelled and hence time and
energy.
The problem is to choose an angle that minimizes the energy I put out while
not excessively compromising the time to my destination.<<<<<

The range of angles I described never got one off course so the travel
distance always remains the same. Energy output and speed made good are the
variables not distance.

>>>>>>>The conditions set by the original post were beam wind and no waves.
I said
that under those conditions, I often use a wind ferry (and I also said that
other conditions, such as notable waves, make wind ferries less effective).
I learned about wind ferrying from canoeing and canoes are more likely than
kayaks (based on my experience) to be used under conditions of winds with
little wave height since they are more likely to be used on smaller lakes
where the fetch is insufficient to produce waves of significance.<<<<<<

What did I say that contradicted this? I don't recall mentioning waves or
there effects at all in my last post.

>>>>>>If you paddle canoes. which are more sensitive to wind and no wave
conditions
due to their freeboard and lack of keel (at least in modern lake trippers),
you can experiment with the angle relative to the wind.  I've done that a
lot and have found that the difference between the correct angle and a bad
one is considerable.  I also know that the effort to work against the wind
drops considerably with the correct angle - you can maintain your position
with a very slow paddle cadance.  Upping the paddle cadance with a small
change in angle gets you to your destination.  Sure you lose speed relative
to a straight line effort, but with much less total energy. <<<<<<<

As I said, even going in a straight line with no wind at all, moving at less
than 1 knot is a lot more efficient than paddling at three or four knots. I
know very few paddlers who choose to travel at crawling speeds though. I
either wouldn't kayak with them in the first place or I would tow them
depending on the situation.

>>>>>>>I have been in conditions where I've maintained the correct angle and
drifted across a lake with almost no effort at all - a very low tempo and
an easy stroke!  In this particular case, the wind was initially slightly
aft of my beam - I used the wind to blow me both downwind (a bit) and across
to my destination. The key is to recognize when ferrying is to your
advantage
and when it is not.<<<<<<

You are always ferrying when moving along a course whatever your kayak's
angle to the wind. Depending on what your goals are, some angles have
advantages over others along the spectrum of all angle possibilities. I
never argued that the angle you chose might not have some advantage under
some situation (such as an injury you described in your second post) at
least if you were paddling on your own and not in a group you could be
putting at risk with your slow speed or separation from the group.

>>>>>>I've applied these principles to kayaking and found the same things,
though
it's a little trickier to get a lot of gain.  This I attribute to the fact
that the hull presents less of a profile to the wind.  You need much higher
winds in the kayak for the same effect and this doesn't happen as often
without waves.  Hence the opportunities are less frequent. <<<<<<<,

What principles are you speaking of?  You keep talking of gain when it is a
loss. The canoe has a lot more losses due to a side wind than a kayak (due
to more windage and a shallower draft) so you may notice less effects from
the wind in a kayak because it doesn't get blown sideways as much in the
first place. Therefore when at a shallower angle into the wind the canoe
will move sideways faster.  The kayak is at an advantage that should allow a
much more direct line to your destination with less effort than with a canoe
that must angle more into the wind to stay on the course line.

> It is better to have a
> kayak that is neutral to the wind (when moving forward at a reasonable
> speed) rather than one that weathercocks or lee-cocks because all known
> methods of compensation for an imbalanced wind/water couple have costs
that
> can be measured in terms of extra energy expended to keep them pointed in
> the right direction.

Which means buying another kayak, specifically one that I have yet to
experience from any manufacturer that deals in any area where I've test
paddled.  Almost all kayak manufacturers claim that theirs don't
weathercock.  The only kayak that I've paddled that is claimed by the
designer (not manufacturer) not to weathercock did in fact weathercock
when I paddled it for a weekend - so much so that I had to use the rudder
for a while (which, while supplied, was claimed not necessary).  Pardon
my scepticism.  <<<<<<<

You certainly have valid reasons to be skeptical. How many kayaks have your
tried? Where do you live? Which kayaks are you speaking of? You said your
kayak had an adjustable skeg. If you deploy it fully does the kayak still
weatherhelm in a side wind? Which kayak is it? You said you barely used the
skeg so that you weathercocked up into the wind to ferry. I think you would
be better off (in total energy used to reach the destination) by deploying
the skeg more fully (and accepting its additional frictional loss) and
paddling/ferrying at a much shallower angle. Your paddling partners might
appreciate it too.

>>>>>>My comments were addressed to someone who uses a kayak they already
have,
not one that exists in theory or in a distant market.  All kayaks, in
my experience, weathercock to some extent in some speed range.  We are
also in a position where we rent or borrow a kayak and have little
control over the make or type.  Learning to avoid weathercocking  problems
by adjusting trim, using skegs or rudders or by changing paddle technique
are all equally valid and useful.  Under certain circumstances, ferrying
is as well.  A wise paddler chooses the best approach for the conditions
and kayak at hand.<<<<<<<

I'd dispute that they are equally useful, but agree all are worth looking
at.

>>>>>>>>>You have your reasons for not wanting to use ferry techniques, just
as
I have mine for using them.  That's fine.  I wouldn't want folks not
to try it because of your objections.  They would be well off by trying
it and seeing how they like it.  If they find it to their advantage,
that's good, if not, they'll agree with you and use other techniques.<<<<<<

I can't help but ferry when crossing a wind. The angle I choose to do so at
may be a different choice than yours though. I strongly recommend that
kayakers experiment with every technique they are aware of or can imagine
and then choose for themselves which ones they want to use (regardless of
what some supposed expert might say). I would however listen to the expert
and try any new techniques she suggested as well. The more techniques you
are good at the better off you are likely to be in a wide variety of
situations. You seem to have misinterpreted much of what I wrote in my last
post and are responding to your misinterpretations rather than to what I
wrote. Please read them carefully again. I'm sorry if my reasoning was not
clear to you.
To everybody: If you think something I said specifically is in error please
comment on just that point. If something is not clear to you and you want a
clarification of what I mean, please ask me. Other than that I'm finished
with writing on this subject.

Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com

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Received on Tue Dec 10 2002 - 04:02:47 PST

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