[Paddlewise] Missouri River in Montana

At 07:44 PM 2/25/03 -0600, you wrote:
>Does anyone have any experience, advice, etc. regarding a paddling 
trip on the
>Missouri River in Montana?  I'm interested in a 3 to 6 day paddle with

>no rapids - a family trip that could be done in canoes or sea kayaks. 

>I'd like to camp along the way.

There aren't any rapids, to speak of on the Missouri.  A couple of
exciting tailraces below dams (including "Tailrace Rapids" in Great
Falls, which is easily portageable).

I've never been through the entire "Wild and Scenic" portion of the
Missouri, but from growing up near there, knowing the country, and
seeing photos of others' trips, I think it's over-rated.  But,
diff'rent strokes for different folks.

You can do the entire river in sea kayaks or canoes.  I actually think
sea kayaks are preferable.  There aren't many riffles or areas where
the ease of entering/exiting a canoe is preferable, and often you might
find yourself paddling against upstream winds where sea kayaks have a
distinct advantage.

Not that I'm against canoes--in western Montana, there are a number of
rivers where canoes are preferable to both whitewater and sea kayaks.

The 'Gates of the Mountains' area of the upper part of Holter Lake is
gorgeous.  My brother and I camped there last year during Labor
Day--very busy with power boats.  Any other time of year (barring
late-summer weekend afternoons), it would be very tranquil.  A loop
trip would be fun out and back from the marina at Colter Landing in the
late summer or fall (water hardly flows), or a one-way trip with a
shuttle in the spring when the river is flowing more quickly.  A 6-day
trip from Upper Holter, through the Gates, across Holter Lake, portage
down at Holter Dam, then floating the Missouri through the Wolf Creek
Canyon to Cascade, MT would be gorgeous.  (Easily done in 3 long days
or 4 average days--6 days would be relaxing).  Fish for trout, walleye,
and perch.

>I'm interested in seeing sites (sights) associated with Lewis & 
Clark's Voyage of Discovery, but good paddling away from civilization
would be the top priority.

Most of Montana is far away from what most would consider
"civilization".  The largest city on the Missouri in Montana is Great
Falls, at 55,000 people.  There aren't any other "cities" even to speak
of on the rest of the river--lots of communities in the 500-2,000
population range.

Nearing the Bicentennial of the Corps of Discovery trip, you're going
to be hard-pressed to avoid the maddening crowds.  Period.  They're
going to be everywhere, accompanied by hawkers, vendors,
"photographers", "journalists",...sightseers galore.

You can likely camp at most places along the way.  There are a lot of
sandbars in the streambed where camping is 100% legal.  You can also
ask many landowners if you may camp in their pasture or at the edge of
a field.  (I imagine this privelege will become harder to come by after
the crowds in 05 and 06).

I grew up in Great Falls, BTW.

Shawn

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