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From: Rafael Mier Maza <sildriel_at_ciateq.net.mx>
subject: [Paddlewise] La Costa del Golfo Expedition arrived in Veracruz. Trip Report.
Date: Tue, 06 May 2003 19:09:10 -0500
Veracruz is magic. It is not another stop along the Gulf of Mexico. It is 
atmosphere, ambient, gastronomy, joi de vivre.

Our two friends arrived on Thursday 24 April by 1:15 PM. The Reception 
Committee failed due to changes in arrival day and hour. Gustavo (my 11 
year old son) and I paddled  out a double to meet them.

Arthur Hebert and Larry Koenig (www.lacostadelgolfo.com) came in a Tandem 
Tabasco that we loaned them in Chachalacas since one  of their boats had a 
leak and needed repair. They had quite a banging from Matamoros to Chachalacas.

With the fast tandem they gained one day and modified the outcome. You see, 
we were going to pick up their loved ones at the Airport on Thursday 
evening and have them paddle out to meet them on Friday noon. Instead 
Arthur and Larry were with us at the Airport to surprise the ladies.They 
were flying with boxes that had dehydrated food and camping equipment and 
we were worried. We talked to the Customs Officer and he turned out to be a 
sea kayak lover and interested in learning rolling. We spent a delightful 
half an hour talking and when the time came customs clearance was 
straightforward. Magda and Janell came out and there were hugs, kisses, 
smiles, etc.

I learned that there is no stronger motivation in the sea than having the 
lady of your dreams  on the next port.

They stayed at a small nice hotel  "Hotel Plaza Jardin" that had wonderful 
features when seen after two weeks on salt, sand, heavy front winds and 
waves up to 12 feet. It had hot showers, air conditioned, soft beds, 
swimming pool, inexpensive restaurant close  by and most of all  a WalMart 
across the street packed with meat, chocolates, fruits, eggs, bacon and 
what have you.

Next evening we all went Downtown Veracruz. Visited its obliged coffee at 
the traditional "Cafe de la Parroquia", where milk is poured from  at least 
one foot away from the glass with coffee.  See pictures at 
http://community.webshots.com/user/cayucochief 
http://community.webshots.com/user/johnsonkw1

Walked through "El Zocalo" and "Los Portales" and watched folkloric dances, 
music players with guitars, harps, marimbas.. It was a hot evening. My 
children played with 5 foot pencil balloons that flied 20 feet in the air 
and we sat to refresh ourselves in Los Portales Outdoor tables drinking 
very cold fermented grain water that some people know as "cerveza" and 
others as "beer".

As the marimba played I told Larry I would play it if the musicians would 
let me. He thought I was speaking under the effect of ..... heat; so he 
asked my children if they had seen me play the marimba and they said no. 
It´s amazing how fast time runs. For 11 years I had not played the marimba 
so.. Larry took a 50 pesos bet. I asked the musicians how much they would 
charge to play a song. I paid it. They named a tune I knew. They chose to 
play it in F mayor, and off we went. Two players on the middle and left 
side played accompaniment and accords and myself on the right side played 
the melody. Musicians asked me to play another one this time in C for half 
the fee. Public applauded. I collected my 50 pesos and sat back to finish 
my beer, under the amused and amazed eyes of Lety my wife, Gustavo and 
Andrea my kids, Arthur and Magda and Janell and Larry.

Next day, we saw the peaceful archeological ruins in Zempoala. Here Hernan 
Cortes, the Spanish conqueror, camped right under the palaces of the king 
ad priests, who welcomed him as the God that fulfilled the predictions. 
Here, also,  Cortes fought the Cuban Spaniards that came to subdue him to 
the Cuban Government.

Cortes destroyed the invaders and the city as well, which has remained in 
peaceful ruins since then. Visiting it is one of the most relaxing and soul 
lifting experiences.

Zempoala Indians survivors of the European deceases like smallpox,  and the 
defeated Spaniards helped Cortes in the conquest of Tenochtitlan, now 
Mexico City.

After the ruins we ate finger licking river shrimp in hot chipotle sauce at 
"La Higuera Blanca" restaurant.

Came back to Chachalacas to meet the Mayor Celestino who gifted them with 
seldom "chuzos" (bamboo fishing harpoons held in arm with a rubber band 
previously stretched to fire the harpoons). Treated them to a motoscooter 
trip up in the local dunes, that would allow a breathtaking view of the 
whole section of the coast, before rushing down in the steep sand walls.

On Sunday Arthur and Larry  with Juan Luis and myself as translators 
imparted a kayak clinic at our La Laguna place to local sea kayakers, that 
was very well appraised. We passed the hat to help on their trip expenses. 
Students were impressed by A and L good style, boat handling and rolling, 
teaching skills, ability, patience and eagerness to learn Spanish and the 
names of birds, and trees and plants.

After the girls left and my wife and kids went back to Queretaro with Juan 
Luis, we camped in La Laguna and prepared for their departure. We practiced 
rolls in our 15 feet  diam. 36 inches high  plastic pool using our 
shortened kayak. (pictures in album)  They reviewed my rolls and I was able 
to retake my confidence and correct my errors.

Wednesday morning they paddled away in our double Tabasco to continue 
surrounding the Gulf of Mexico. Arthur, Larry, Janell and Magda left a very 
good memory and will be welcome anytime whether they come by car, plane or 
kayak.

Next and last meeting with us will be in Frontera, in the Mayan state of 
Tabasco, where we´ll return their  repaired boats and get our tandem back.

Best Regards,
Rafael
el cayuco chief
www.mayanseas.com
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