Veracruz is magic. It is not another stop along the Gulf of Mexico. It is atmosphere, ambient, gastronomy, joi de vivre. Our two friends arrived on Thursday 24 April by 1:15 PM. The Reception Committee failed due to changes in arrival day and hour. Gustavo (my 11 year old son) and I paddled out a double to meet them. Arthur Hebert and Larry Koenig (www.lacostadelgolfo.com) came in a Tandem Tabasco that we loaned them in Chachalacas since one of their boats had a leak and needed repair. They had quite a banging from Matamoros to Chachalacas. With the fast tandem they gained one day and modified the outcome. You see, we were going to pick up their loved ones at the Airport on Thursday evening and have them paddle out to meet them on Friday noon. Instead Arthur and Larry were with us at the Airport to surprise the ladies.They were flying with boxes that had dehydrated food and camping equipment and we were worried. We talked to the Customs Officer and he turned out to be a sea kayak lover and interested in learning rolling. We spent a delightful half an hour talking and when the time came customs clearance was straightforward. Magda and Janell came out and there were hugs, kisses, smiles, etc. I learned that there is no stronger motivation in the sea than having the lady of your dreams on the next port. They stayed at a small nice hotel "Hotel Plaza Jardin" that had wonderful features when seen after two weeks on salt, sand, heavy front winds and waves up to 12 feet. It had hot showers, air conditioned, soft beds, swimming pool, inexpensive restaurant close by and most of all a WalMart across the street packed with meat, chocolates, fruits, eggs, bacon and what have you. Next evening we all went Downtown Veracruz. Visited its obliged coffee at the traditional "Cafe de la Parroquia", where milk is poured from at least one foot away from the glass with coffee. See pictures at http://community.webshots.com/user/cayucochief http://community.webshots.com/user/johnsonkw1 Walked through "El Zocalo" and "Los Portales" and watched folkloric dances, music players with guitars, harps, marimbas.. It was a hot evening. My children played with 5 foot pencil balloons that flied 20 feet in the air and we sat to refresh ourselves in Los Portales Outdoor tables drinking very cold fermented grain water that some people know as "cerveza" and others as "beer". As the marimba played I told Larry I would play it if the musicians would let me. He thought I was speaking under the effect of ..... heat; so he asked my children if they had seen me play the marimba and they said no. It´s amazing how fast time runs. For 11 years I had not played the marimba so.. Larry took a 50 pesos bet. I asked the musicians how much they would charge to play a song. I paid it. They named a tune I knew. They chose to play it in F mayor, and off we went. Two players on the middle and left side played accompaniment and accords and myself on the right side played the melody. Musicians asked me to play another one this time in C for half the fee. Public applauded. I collected my 50 pesos and sat back to finish my beer, under the amused and amazed eyes of Lety my wife, Gustavo and Andrea my kids, Arthur and Magda and Janell and Larry. Next day, we saw the peaceful archeological ruins in Zempoala. Here Hernan Cortes, the Spanish conqueror, camped right under the palaces of the king ad priests, who welcomed him as the God that fulfilled the predictions. Here, also, Cortes fought the Cuban Spaniards that came to subdue him to the Cuban Government. Cortes destroyed the invaders and the city as well, which has remained in peaceful ruins since then. Visiting it is one of the most relaxing and soul lifting experiences. Zempoala Indians survivors of the European deceases like smallpox, and the defeated Spaniards helped Cortes in the conquest of Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City. After the ruins we ate finger licking river shrimp in hot chipotle sauce at "La Higuera Blanca" restaurant. Came back to Chachalacas to meet the Mayor Celestino who gifted them with seldom "chuzos" (bamboo fishing harpoons held in arm with a rubber band previously stretched to fire the harpoons). Treated them to a motoscooter trip up in the local dunes, that would allow a breathtaking view of the whole section of the coast, before rushing down in the steep sand walls. On Sunday Arthur and Larry with Juan Luis and myself as translators imparted a kayak clinic at our La Laguna place to local sea kayakers, that was very well appraised. We passed the hat to help on their trip expenses. Students were impressed by A and L good style, boat handling and rolling, teaching skills, ability, patience and eagerness to learn Spanish and the names of birds, and trees and plants. After the girls left and my wife and kids went back to Queretaro with Juan Luis, we camped in La Laguna and prepared for their departure. We practiced rolls in our 15 feet diam. 36 inches high plastic pool using our shortened kayak. (pictures in album) They reviewed my rolls and I was able to retake my confidence and correct my errors. Wednesday morning they paddled away in our double Tabasco to continue surrounding the Gulf of Mexico. Arthur, Larry, Janell and Magda left a very good memory and will be welcome anytime whether they come by car, plane or kayak. Next and last meeting with us will be in Frontera, in the Mayan state of Tabasco, where we´ll return their repaired boats and get our tandem back. Best Regards, Rafael el cayuco chief www.mayanseas.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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