Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2003 22:04:45 -0700 From: "alex" <al.m_at_3web.net> Subject: [Paddlewise] F-craft Big Kahuna skin Q. Has anybody ever noticed more difficult assembling of new F-crafts (urethane skin and hull) after bagged storage? Common knowledge is that its skin is dimensionally stabile, then I wonder what might cause these changes? Salt on the skin? Poor sliding of extention bars due to some dirt or etching layer on aluminum? When I dissemble it again (without paddling), second assembling is easier. Extended keelsen becomes visually bent due to compression, and after closing bottom Velcro-straps in 3 points this bend shifts to the area of either bow or stern small rib (far from Velcro buckles and close to bungey-cord joint, which is natural). Keelsen deviation from longituidinal axis in the point of maximum arc is about the diameter of keelsen tube. Reduced extention of keelsen (shortened to the next hole) will eliminate this, but I wonder how tight should it be, and is it normal when it somewhat changes after paddling or storage. The boat is Big Kahuna, 2003. Sounds like you are going to the third hole when perhaps you only need to go to the second hole. I have a 2002 Feathercraft K-1 and my K-1 instructions say go to the second hole. (1) I start with the keel bar and go to the 1st hole, (2) then I do the two chine bars to the 1st hole (3) then I do the gunnel bars going directly to the second hole (4) I go back to the keel bar and put it into 2nd hole (5) then I go to the chine bars and put them into the 2nd hole. Suggestions: If you are inflating sponsons before connecting bars do not do so. If you are going to the third hole right off the bat at each bar do not do so. Third hole I guess is one too many and I imagine third hole in the bars just as a backup so that ever needed it is there FC K-1 Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Sounds like you are going to the third hole when perhaps you only need to go > to the second hole. > > I have a 2002 Feathercraft K-1 and my K-1 instructions say go to the second > hole. (1) I start with the keel bar and go to the 1st hole, (2) then I do > the two chine bars to the 1st hole (3) then I do the gunnel bars going > directly to the second hole (4) I go back to the keel bar and put it into > 2nd hole (5) then I go to the chine bars and put them into the 2nd hole. > Oddly enough, but I can't extend the cockpit keelsen bar even to the 2nd hole. Stern frame half is on the 3rd hole (i.e. the longest set of frame half) , though. Manual for Big Kahuna recommends 3rd hole for a rame half, and so I did. Alex. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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