Sounds like you are going to the third hole when perhaps you only need to go > to the second hole. > > I have a 2002 Feathercraft K-1 and my K-1 instructions say go to the second > hole. (1) I start with the keel bar and go to the 1st hole, (2) then I do > the two chine bars to the 1st hole (3) then I do the gunnel bars going > directly to the second hole (4) I go back to the keel bar and put it into > 2nd hole (5) then I go to the chine bars and put them into the 2nd hole. > Oddly enough, but I can't extend the cockpit keelsen bar even to the 2nd hole. Stern frame half is on the 3rd hole (i.e. the longest set of frame half) , though. Manual for Big Kahuna recommends 3rd hole for a rame half, and so I did. Alex. Are you extending the keel bar first , then going to the chine bar and then to the gunnel bar. When I speak of the holes I call the first hole (the hole you reach first when extending) second hole(the hole you reach second when extending) the third hole ( the furthest you can extend the bars) Could be in your particular boat you only need to go to the first hole. I am curious, let me know how it goes. If all else fails give your dealer a call (if it is one of the knowledgeable dealers, if not give the factory a call). I had the opportunity to meet Doug and Dan at the East Coast Gathering in April and they are great folks. F K-1 Bob *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
> Oddly enough, but I can't extend the cockpit keelsen bar even to the 2nd > hole. Stern frame half is on the 3rd hole (i.e. the longest set of frame > half) , though. Manual for Big Kahuna recommends 3rd hole for a rame half, > and so I did. > Alex. > > Are you extending the keel bar first , then going to the chine bar and then > to the gunnel bar. When I speak of the holes I call the first hole (the > hole you reach first when extending) second hole(the hole you reach > second when extending) > the third hole ( the furthest you can extend the bars) > > Could be in your particular boat you only need to go to the first hole. Yes, I'm extending the keel bar first, then going to chine bar and then to gunnel bar. Same as you, I'm calling the first hole the one that I reach first when extending. I don't have problems extending chine and gunel bars - they are tensioned much less than keelsen. There are 2 sets of adjustment holes in Kahuna - one set on stern half-frame and one on middle extention bars (i.e. in a cockpit area) . Stern half-frame is extended permanently to the 3rd hole according to the manual. Manual warns, though, that due to skin variations I might want to shorten stern half by going to the 2nd hole. You may be right, it could be that my boat needs only 1st hole in keelsen and gunnel/chine bars - but still 3rd hole in a stern half. Now, this is complicated but I'll try to explain. If I shorten stern half going to the 2nd hole, and then, to compensate this, will extend keelsen and other cockpit-area bars to the 2nd hole (like I said, so far I could extend keelsen to the 1st hole only), the keelsen will *aready* become loosened. The reason is - cockpit-area adjustment holes are 1/4" closer to each other, than adjustment holes on the stern half-frame, therefore compensation will not be absolute. Like I said, I have no problems extending chine/gunnel bars (only keelsen is tight), and wouldn't like to loosen them even more. Often I can *dissemble* either chine or gunnel bars (but not a keelsen) without a lever - so you can see that chines/gunnels are loose enough. It could be that my skin, even with keelsen so tight, doesn't need the above slackening by 1/4". I might try that slackening, and then I would *both* assemble and dissemble chines and gunnels without a lever - but I suspect this would slacken the frame too much. Interesting that when I rinsed skin and frame with fresh water (I don't always do that), bars became easier to extend. Either it was salt contracting the skin, or dirt preventing fame halves from being shoved all the way into skin ends, or salt deposits on extention tubes making extention efforts more difficult - I have no idea. Keelsen still doesn't go farther than to the 1st hole, but previously mentioned "bend" or "lateral rocker" of tensioned keelsen, has disappeared. So the boat is now back to what it was at the day of purchase, and assembling of new post-2002 hulls is really consistent. Alex. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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