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From: Evan Dallas <Evan_Dallas_at_notes.ntrs.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Gwaii Haanas aka Queen Charlottes
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2003 15:41:12 -0700
It's been a dozen years since I was in the Gwaii Haanas, but I remember of
few things to recommend.  When we were there, we didn't have a lot of
advice about campsites, etc, and consequently just found places along the
way.  Some of these were pretty rough.  If you're comfortable sleeping in a
hammock (and some are quite comfortable), there were many very "woodsy" or
rocky campsites where that would have helped a lot.

Also be sure to bring a tarp or two or three, since the islands can be
quite rainy (if I recall, the driest month is typically June).  We went in
July and ran into some _nasty_ weather (like 10 inches of rain in less than
36 hours that was washing out fir trees 2 to 3 feet wide), so be prepared
for anything ranging from Paradise to continuous storms.

If you like fishing at all, there is (or at least was 12 years ago) some
excellent salmon fishing.  We had salmon pretty much every day.  Our most
successful technique was casting out buzzbombs, whether from shore or from
our kayaks, whenever we saw a salmon jump--although we did catch one while
trolling.  We found that the bellies of the salmon were often _full_ of
candle fish, but oddly they did't seem to be interested in candlefish-like
lures.  The buzzbombs worked like a charm, however.  There was also plenty
of cod, snapper, rock fish, etc; but we pretty passed them over in favor of
the salmon.

Also, be sure to visit some of the historic sites and read as much about
the islands as you have time for in advance to give you a better
perspective on the experience.  When we visited, there were native
caretakers who were full of fascinating details about the history of the
islands.  (It's nice to offer a gift of some sort in exchange for the
information.  We ended up giving away some of our salmon to the
caretakers...).

Lastly, and this will show just how green we were on this trip (this was my
first multi-day kayak trip, by the way), be sure to bring a _real_ nautical
chart.  One of the people in our group was charge with bring a "map" of the
area and that's exactly what he brought, i.e. a detailed land map intended
mostly for hikers (or cars).  Duh!

Evan Dallas
Woodinville, Washington


James" <jimtibensky_at_fastmail.fm> wrote:

>> Friends and I will be going to the Queen Charlottes to kayak the Gwaii
Haanas National Park.  Landing with our folding boats in Sandspit, does
anyone have any advice as to the best way or ways to get to the park from
there, things to see or avoid, names of friendly businesses or people who
will accept shipment of stoves and food in advance, ANYTHING that will
help make our trip better?  None of has been there before nor do we know
anyone who has.

We're going from August 23 through September 8.>>


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