I've got an assortment of paddles and wanted to do some demo runs to compare the differences in the paddles. I took out my surf ski, a Fenn Mako Millenium (http://tinyurl.com/fmrf) with a Speedtech knotmeter (http://tinyurl.com/k05t) I chose the surf ski to do the tests because I wanted to have a boat that had as little hull speed limitation on my tests as possible. The knotmeter is an impeller driven speedometer, not a gps based system. I did the trials on the Merrimack River in Lawrence, Massachusetts just above a dam. I picked this spot because it would have consistant currents for each loop. I paddled about 1 nautical mile from a boat landing to a turn buoy and back, winds were negligible for each loop and being 6am there was no one else on the water. Unfortunately I didn't get round trip times as floating weeds fouled the impeller for 3 of the 4 runs, something easily remedied but it required pullin over. For background I've got about 25 years experience racing canoes and kayaks. I paddle stroke (front seat) for an outrigger canoe team - I like to think my pace is consistant. I tried 4 paddles a 218 cm Lightning Ultralight with Struer blades, a 7 foot Cricket greenland paddle, a bow paddle may 220 cm long (http://home.comcast.net/~jkolsen/html/paddle.html) and a Bratcha II Wing paddle. My results are not precise as I am estimating my average speed based on the number that was on the speedometer display the most. I also did a sprint at the same point on the river to see how fast I could get going. By cruising speed I mean a pace that I could attain for a couple hours without resting. Speeds are in knots per hour, not in kilometers per hour. Lightning 6.4 Kph cruising speed 7.45 Kph peak speed. Greenland 5.95 Kph cruising speed 7.3 Kph peak speed. Bow 6.1 Kph cruising speed 7.3 Kph peak speed. Wing 6.85 Kph cruising speed 8.3 Kph peak speed. To be a better test I'll have to find a place with consistant deep water. There were a couple of sections where my speed decreased despite maintaining a steady stroke rate. Comments on the paddles I tried: The lightning at 23 ounces is wonderful to use, but the shaft is a little too flexible for my likes. I tried an assortment of strokes with the greenland, my attempt at mimicing the stroke with an abdominal crunch was counter productive as the boat slowed by .2 knots over my usual stroke. Mimicing a wing stroke with the greenland wasn't as productive (speed wise) as switching to a canoe style vertical stroke. The bow paddle has essentially the same stroke as a lower height greenland stroke, the stroke results in the blade being basically vertical in the water, tip pointing at the bottom of the river. I hate my wing paddle. It weighs about 32 ounces and the shaft is very stiff. Outside of the sprint I wasn't able to get my stroke rate to the same comfortable cadence as the other 3 paddles. On the other hand, my summertime goal of maintaining 8 knots for 100 meters was met this morning.... In no way, shape, or form was this a controlled scientific test, just a set of benchmarks of how I was able to do with a few different paddle styles. Kirk *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 8/14/2003 12:28:27 PM Central Daylight Time, kork4_at_cluemail.com writes: I tried 4 paddles a 218 cm Lightning Ultralight with Struer blades, a 7 foot Cricket greenland paddle, a bow paddle may 220 cm long (http://home.comcast.net/~jkolsen/html/paddle.html) and a Bratcha II Wing paddle. > Lightning 6.4 Kph cruising speed 7.45 Kph peak speed. > Greenland 5.95 Kph cruising speed 7.3 Kph peak speed. > Bow 6.1 Kph cruising speed 7.3 Kph peak speed. > Wing 6.85 Kph cruising speed 8.3 Kph peak speed. > Kirk, I spend time between various paddles, also. I am curious as to know how well fitted the Greenland Paddle is to your body and boat dimensions. For instance, though I still use my 7 foot, or 84", or 215 cm, Cricket GP, I noticed when I built my own for my own body dimensions, my speed improved. Of course, being more mindful of technique was more important. My GP made on Chuck Holst's plans ended up being a foot longer with a loom stretched 3" beyond Cricket's standard of 19". You might fit the Cricket perfectly, but the question is worth asking. That Bow paddle is a strange looking affair. What's the story behind that? Why the curved shaft? Any benefits to it? Rob G *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On Thu, 14 Aug 2003 14:22:54 EDT, Rcgibbert_at_aol.com said: > In a message dated 8/14/2003 12:28:27 PM Central Daylight Time, > kork4_at_cluemail.com writes: > > I tried a few paddles and got the following results: > > Lightning, Greenland, Bow, Wing > I spend time between various paddles, also. I am curious as to know how well > fitted the Greenland Paddle is to your body and boat dimensions. Based on Chuck Holst's document the Cricket is about 3 inches shorter than my anthropomorphic measurements and an inch narrow on the loom. Neither measurement all that far off. I'm a boringly average sized male - 6' 165 pounds. > That Bow paddle is a strange looking affair. What's the story behind > that? Why the curved shaft? Any benefits to it? The person who designed it, Bill Low of Willow Kayaks, has carpal tunnel and wrist tendonitis. He can't paddle with a straight shaft paddle or his fingers go numb (or something like that). He has no trouble paddling for hours with the bow. As a test hold your hands in front of you like you are holding a kayak paddle. Notice the tightness running along the inside and lower side of your forearm. Now rotate your thumbs toward the sky. On me the tightness goes away when I rotate my hands. The thumbs up position is how you paddle with the bow. It takes a little to get used to but the paddle stroke works well, you just need to adapt your technique to the different hand position. About the only strokes that don't work with the paddle are ones where you change your hand position. I use the paddle to roll without any difficulties. I like the bow paddle best during cold weather as water doesn't run down the shaft and your hands stay dry ;-) -- Kirk Olsen kork4_at_cluemail.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Anybody have good luck with these and have a brand to recommend? I'm considering a foot pump, but installation will be quite an ordeal due to my short legs. I'd always have a hand pump as a backup in case of mechanical failure for a battery operated pump, but would love to find something that actually pumped out the boat quickly and was fairly easy to install. Thanks in advance for any information about brands, installation tips, and dealers. Dee *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 8/14/2003 8:44:12 PM Central Daylight Time, egb_at_dur.mindspring.com writes: > Anybody have good luck with these and have a brand to recommend? I'm > considering a foot pump, but installation will be quite an ordeal due to my > short legs. I'd always have a hand pump as a backup in case of mechanical > failure for a battery operated pump, but would love to find something that > actually pumped out the boat quickly and was fairly easy to install. Thanks > in advance for any information about brands, installation tips, and dealers. > > Dee, I use the Attwood weater buster purchased at West Marine for $30.00. It uses 3 each D cells and it works well. I will note, however that my first experience with it was not so good. It shorted due to a leak in the rubber boot that seals the switch. Therefore, I take care to seal the inside of the switch housing and switch booty with silicone. It's been on my boat for a year without failure. It is not as fast as the Rule pumps that use the gel batteries, etc. But it does empty the boat out from a complete flood in 4-5 minutes and a partial flood in 2-3. The D batteries also survive 2 days worth of training classes where we are in and out of boats a dozen times in a variety of water conditions. Email Peter from Oz about the Rule pumps. They apparently pump out a boat quick and are not a hassle to install. He'll, no doubt, be sending in a note on the subject soon. If he doesn't, I'll dig out an old email of his on the subject that I saved and forward to you. Rob G *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On 14 Aug 2003 at 21:41, Dee Lutz wrote: > Anybody have good luck with these and have a brand to recommend? When I investigated mine, I found that the Attwood pumps were consistently rated in terms of capacity and power requirements, while other brands tended to be overrated by their manufacturers. The Atwood 650 (or 625 - whichever - can't remember the exact size) actually take slightly less power than the smaller 450. The 650's the one I chose, as it has the best performance for the amount of power reqd. At full load pumping out the kayak with a good pile of water, I've measured the current draw at 0.9A, slightly below its rating. There are a couple of other good pumps out there, but they weren't available locally. IIRC Whale makes one. There's also a new one I heard of that wasn't available when I purchased mine. Web searching on bilge pumps will find info - look for the reviews in the boating magazines. Mine isn't one with internal batteries - I put a battery pack in the rear compartment and wired thru the bulkhead (lots of 3M 5200 to seal the hole). Battery options include NiCd, NiMH and SLA (Seal lead acid). I'd recommend NiMH or SLA (specifically AGM type). Since NiMH can be considerably discharged repeatedly and safely, you can go with a lower overall capacity than with AGM. For example, 1Ah NiMH would be roughly equivalent to 2-2.5 Ah of AGM since you can only discharge the AGM about 50% repeatedly and up to 80% occasionally. NiMH can handle 90-95% discharge without a problem. Calculate the cost of 12 - 1.2V NiMH plus charger versus 1 - 12V AGM + charger and see what you prefer. NiMH will no doubt be lighter - 12 AA size can easily be found with a net 1.6Ah capacity or greater. Note that you want 12 batteries, not ten, since 12V nominal for a boat is usually about 13.5-14V. Locally (i.e. Canadian $) 12 AA at 1.8Ah would be $48 and the charger about $50-60. The 2.5Ah AGM would be about $35-40 and the charger about $26. I bought my 5Ah AGM at a surplus store for $6. YMMV Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Michael, How are you handling the power switch for your set up? Seems that ideally you'd be able to switch this OFF with your skirt fully attached, right? So the switch needs to be accessible or operable in this situation. I'm guessing that the switch is a common failure point. My own thought was to have the battery pack in a semi-flexible container (like a wide mouth poly Nalgene bottle) - with a push-button switch mounted inside - squeeze the bottle to operate the switch. But....this requires your skirt to be removed (at least partially) so doesn't appear to be the answer. Thanks for any additional info - been thinking about an electric pump for a while - just haven't done it. Mostly holding off trying to come up with a less than complicated wiring/switching arrangement. K *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On 15 Aug 2003 at 17:42, Keith Wrage wrote: > How are you handling the power switch for your set up? Seems that > ideally you'd be able to switch this OFF with your skirt fully > attached, right? So the switch needs to be accessible or operable in > this situation. Ideally, yes. However, I figured that the ideal was too hard to achieve easily so I went with a less than ideal condition. Most of the pump use is from rolling and rescue practice, so it's no big deal to remove the skirt. If I had to use it in an emergency- type situation, I figured that means I'd be out of the kayak or would at least have had the skirt pop in order to have taken on a lot of water. In that case, turning it on with the switch inside the cockpit is not big deal. As far as turning it off - the pump is rated to run with no load without damage for a while. My take is that if it is a really rough situation, I'd just let it run until I could turn it off or until the battery runs out (worst case - with my battery, that's over five hours at full charge!). If I burn the motor, it's C$30-35 to replace the pump - the cost of doing something more risky than I should have been in. > I'm guessing that the switch is a common failure > point. My own thought was to have the battery pack in a semi-flexible > container (like a wide mouth poly Nalgene bottle) - with a push-button > switch mounted inside - squeeze the bottle to operate the switch. I used a waterproof switch. However, it's only waterproof as a surface mount. There's a rubbery membrane over it and the rest of the body isn't waterproof. I wired it up and then put the switch into a plastic film can and filled it with epoxy up to the cover. The result is a round cylinder that is waterproof as far as I can tell - it hasn't had any problems yet (> 1 year). You can get switches that are seriously waterproof, but they are hard to find and quite pricey. Mine was $2 at the surplus store where I got the battery, plus a bit of left over epoxy. > But....this requires your skirt to be removed (at least partially) so > doesn't appear to be the answer. On my desk here is a hatch cover that I got quite a while ago. My intention was to put it into the skirt as an access point. Haven't got around to it yet. There was an article in Sea Kayaker last year showing how it's done. That would provide access without popping the whole skirt and only allowing a smallish hole open to the elements. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 10:17 AM 8/16/2003 -0400, you wrote: >I used a waterproof switch. However, it's only waterproof as a >surface mount. There's a rubbery membrane over it and the rest of >the body isn't waterproof. I wired it up and then put the switch >into a plastic film can and filled it with epoxy up to the cover. >The result is a round cylinder that is waterproof as far as I can >tell - it hasn't had any problems yet (> 1 year). Mike, Reading this thread with interest, but must admit I can't quite see how you do this. If you wouldn't mind, would you re-explain: ? "waterproof as a surface mount" ? "I wired it up and then put the switch into a plastic film can and filled it with epoxy up to the cover. The result is a round cylinder that is waterproof..." ? "My intention was to put it into the skirt as an access point" Sorry for seeming so obtuse. But I'd like to understand this better. Thanks! Tom *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On 16 Aug 2003 at 19:25, TomL wrote: > ? "waterproof as a surface mount" Surface mount is obviously the wrong term here - sorry! It's a rocker switch with a rubber membrane covering the switch. The switch was designed to be mounted on a panel. If it is flush with the panel and sealed around the edge, the outside is waterproof. For example, if I mounted the switch in a waterproof box, the outside would be waterproof, but the part of the switch inside the box is not, so if the box were flooded, the switch would be shorted. > ? "I wired it up and then put the switch > into a plastic film can and filled it with epoxy up to the cover. The > result is a round cylinder that is waterproof..." The cover, in this case, is the cover of the switch, not the film can. Basically, the entire switch except the cover is covered with epoxy. > ? "My > intention was to put it into the skirt as an access point There was an article in Sea Kayaker on how to put a screw-in hatch cover into your skirt. If you have one, you can open it and get your hand into the cockpit without removing the skirt. Great for getting into a knee tube or even using a manual pump. > Sorry for seeming so obtuse. Hardly - I could have been much more clear. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Poke around at some electrical supply type stores. There are very cool small magnetic switches. I have yet to set it up on mine, but my intention was to mount the switch under the deck directly below a bungee cord in front of the cockpit. Then mount a block with the inset magnet under the bungee (thread the bungee right through the block). Slide block over switch = on. No through hull cuts. Obvious/large 'switch'. Accessible from outside the hatch. Workable with cold/numb/gloved hands. Marvin > Michael, > > How are you handling the power switch for your set up? Seems --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 8/4/03 *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I've seen these used on underwater camera housings too... K *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Only problem with this is you can't use a compass with magnets around them. Joan > Poke around at some electrical supply type stores. There are very cool > small magnetic switches. I have yet to set it up on mine, but my intention > was to mount the switch under the deck directly below a bungee cord in front > of the cockpit. Then mount a block with the inset magnet under the bungee > (thread the bungee right through the block). Slide block over switch = on. > No through hull cuts. Obvious/large 'switch'. Accessible from outside the > hatch. Workable with cold/numb/gloved hands. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Very true. Shucks. But, would not the electrics of the bilge motor be as much of an interference as a magnetic switch? I guess this means that the magnet switch goes onto the rear deck then. Marvin > > Only problem with this is you can't use a compass with magnets > around them. > > Joan > > > Poke around at some electrical supply type stores. There are very cool > > small magnetic switches. I have yet to set it up on mine, but my > intention > > was to mount the switch under the deck directly below a bungee cord in > front > > of the cockpit. Then mount a block with the inset magnet under > the bungee > > (thread the bungee right through the block). Slide block over switch = > on. > > No through hull cuts. Obvious/large 'switch'. Accessible from outside > the > > hatch. Workable with cold/numb/gloved hands. > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.507 / Virus Database: 304 - Release Date: 8/4/03 *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
[Moderator's Note: Content unaltered. Excessive quoting (i.e. headers/footers/sig lines/extraneous text from previous posts, etc.) have been removed. Please edit quoted material in addition to removing header/trailers when replying to posts.] Please note that this comes from the viewpoint of an EE, not someone who has any experience with electric pumps in kayaks... Why not use a largish push-button switch and surface mount it under the deck so that it can be kicked on and off with your knee? Or maybe forward far enough to use a foot but the knee seems easier to me. You wouldn't have to breach the hull at all and the worst danger would be inadvertently turning it on if you go over and flail around a bit. You wouldn't want to leave sharp edges or anything but I would think a suitable enclosure wouldn't be hard to find...maybe something like this: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&User_ID=15188470&St=6245&St2=60427407&St3=-41513928&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=9615&DID=7 (sorry if the long link doesn't come through) One part could be mounted and the lid easily sealed and everything stays belowdeck. Just a thought. Ray At 05:42 PM 8/15/03 -0500, Keith Wrage wrote: >How are you handling the power switch for your set up? Seems that ideally >you'd be able to switch this OFF with your skirt fully attached, >right? So the switch needs to be accessible or operable in this >situation. I'm guessing that the switch is a common failure point. My >own thought was to have the battery pack in a semi-flexible container >(like a wide mouth poly Nalgene bottle) - with a push-button switch >mounted inside - squeeze the bottle to operate the switch. But....this >requires your skirt to be removed (at least partially) so doesn't appear >to be the answer. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 8/17/2003 3:31:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jspinner_at_peoplepc.com writes: > Only problem with this is you can't use a compass with > magnets around them. Or a small switch, but you don't need a lot of separation --- maybe 12" to 18" --- to eliminate any impact (measurable, noticeable) on a kayak compass, from my experience. Joq *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
A member of our club has an elegant solution to waterproofing electric pump switches. Rob uses a reed switch under the deck and a magnet mounted in a flat rotating switch on deck, avoiding the need for any through deck fittings. Rob kindly wrote this up as a how to article for the club newsletter, if anyone is thinking of fitting an electric pump I've put Rob's article up on the web: http://www.abdn.ac.uk/~ltu006/images/robs_pump/pump_switch.htm Cheers Colin 57º17'N 2º4'W *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi. I've been out of town for 5 days, and am catching up, so my apologies if this is covered in another post. > Poke around at some electrical supply type stores. There are very cool > small magnetic switches. Just be sure to remember that magnets impact compasses, and not in a good way. If you plan to use a deck mounted compass (permanent or detachable) within reach of the cockpit, you may get false readings. Rick *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
G'day Dee & Paddlewise, Dee asked about electric pumps and Robert mentioned Peter from Oz. The Attwood pump is convenient but a bit slow, and you have to remove the spray deck to use it. This makes it impractical for most seakayaks in significant sea, though I found it OK for use in the Klepper foldable which stays upright in just about anything I'm game to handle (except surf)! The Rule Pumps work fine and are used by just about everyone I know who uses electric pumps. I've never known one to break down. Switches and batteries on the other hand fail regularly. The hermetic Otter boxes are ideal sizes for holding lead acid gel batteries and keeping them dry. If you don't mind taking the spray deck off you can make a very compact and reliable unit by incorporating the switch into the Otter box along with the battery. I recently helped install a removable Rule pump. Two pieces of wrap around Velcro were fastened to a bulkhead, then a block of foam had a recess carved in the shape of the pump at one end, so the pump inlet was just proud of the bottom of the foam. The Velcro was used to hold the foam/pump combination against the base of the kayak and the bulkhead. I'm waiting for feedback from the owner. Regarding switches - In Australia it is highly unlikely that any pump switch you buy from a ships chandler or retail electronics store will be water proof. Even if they come with a fancy rubber boot and the salesman tells you they are. If the switch is submerged regularly (say twice a week) then it has a good chance of failing after a few months to a year. Water can track along the wires into the back of the switch or find its way down through the boot. Such switches may be splash proof but they are not surf or roll proof. I looked for a switch that met the IP67 standard and so far its been OK. Radiospares used to sell this sort of switch and it was cheaper than the splash proof versions sold in our yachting shops or electronic hobby stores. All the best, PeterO *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Joan Spinner" <jspinner_at_peoplepc.com> wrote: > Only problem with this is you can't use a compass with magnets around them. Only one way to find out: test it and see. Rare earth magnets have a much larger magnetic field than do regular ceramic magnets. If you have a magnet mounted on the foredeck for a reed switch (say, N. pole is UP), you could also epoxy another rare earth magnet in a convenient (and nearby) spot under the deck with the N. pole DOWN), and the magnetic field will largely be contained between the two magnets. Instead of interfering with a compass 12-18" away, you'll have to be half the distance or closer to notice magnetic disturbance in your compass. Shawn __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
On 18 Aug 2003 at 20:43, Shawn Baker wrote: > If you have a magnet mounted on the foredeck for a reed switch (say, > N. pole is UP), you could also epoxy another rare earth magnet in a > convenient (and nearby) spot under the deck with the N. pole DOWN), > and the magnetic field will largely be contained between the two > magnets. You could also use a keeper on the magnet, which would do a similar thing. Another thing is to use a mass of iron near the compass to compensate. That's what the two iron balls on the side of a binnacle are for. As well, there are Flinder's Bars mounted on the binnacle. The balls compensate for iron in the ship and the Flinder's bars are to compensate for iron or magnetic fields that are loaded in the ship - the bars can be moved around the binnacle until the compass is corrected. So you can complement your Kevlar and carbon fibre kayak with about 50 lb of iron. :-) Some compasses, like the high-end Ritchies, have more modern compensation mechanisms. I've never fooled with them, but they can be adjusted to compensate for magnetic interference in a boat (like a big iron keel). I haven't seen this feature on the Ritchie kayak compasses, though, only on the bigger ones. Don't know if these work with a rare earth magnet two feet away. Even without a correction device, you can run a line of known azimuth (like a channel line on a navagation chart) and compare the compass reading to the marked reading (including variation or declination) and figure out the compass error. Keep adding (or subtracting) the error when you use the compass. If your compass has a declination adjustment, you can dial out the error with that. You can't keep moving the magnet around, though, or you'll have to keep recalibrating the compass. If your compass only points to the magnet, you obviously have too strong a magnet. You could also get an air pressure switch and be done with magnets. Mike *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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