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From: Doug Lloyd <dalloyd_at_telus.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Requests for Cape Caution Incident Details
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 01:05:20 -0800
I've had a few requests from new paddlewisers for information/details
regarding mention in some recent posts about an incident off Cape Caution. I
can't access my old post right now that gave a full report, so here's a
quick attempt at explaining the incident after a few years of reflection.
Older paddlewise members can skip or delete. Long post. Fingers sore, so
bear with the grammar, etc.

****************

Three of us had planned a trip for many months. Something challenging,
off-season -- before the crowds show up. We departed around April 1st, 1996
I believe. The three of us arrived at Bella Bella off the ferry, and set out
on a 10-day trip back to Port Hardy. It had been the worst winter in
recorded history here on the coast-- tons of snow and endless gales.

We had hail, snow, gales, and -5C temps the whole trip from Bella Bella
onward for most of the next week. I was around 40 at the time, paddler 2
around 45, and paddler 3 around 50. Paddler 1was a top BCU type, and owned a
kayak retail and training business. Paddler 3 was a local all-season paddler
with about 18,000 miles under his belt, err skirt. He paddled daily year
round.

Paddler 3 did not bring sufficient cold weather gear or a proper sleeping
bag. His "set-point" for cold tolerance grew worse every day. We battled 30+
knot headwinds most of the way south, down the inside passage. Paddler 2's
boat sprung a leak off Kelp Head in huge seas. Near Rivers Inlet paddler
three couldn't keep up anymore in the 6-foot seas and gales, and fell way
behind. He is a very strong paddler -- a big guy, but it had been so bad
that winter in Victoria for severe weather, he hadn't got in any paddling
for the first time in his paddling career and was therefore out of shape. He
had been shut-out of the season. I'd been in heaven all winter, and even
made it out one day when bricks were torn off some of the older buildings in
downtown Victoria. I didn't last long on the water that day. I was simply in
great shape for once in my life, regularly at the gym too. Paddler 3 was as
always, a strong year-round paddler with open water experience and a highly
efficient stroke. Paddler 3 did not have open water experience, nor even a
surf helmet with him.

There was horrendous tension the afternoon near Rivers Inlet, and paddler 3
veered off behind us to look for shelter, as he was getting desperate,
fighting for his survival in a private hell, his "friends" forging way ahead
of him. We finally actually got some communication happening after the
tension settled down, after turning back to find him. We agreed to push
harder together, to find a better sheltered bay, which proved in the end to
be wet, sodden, snow-covered and soaked in the night as slush melted into
small streams. We were in survival mode. Paddler 2 made a decision to put
out a pan-pan for help, mostly to try and order-up a water taxi. We were not
able to make communication.

The gales continued, but there was less sleet and more sunshine. We pushed
hard for Cape Caution. Upon arriving somewhere north of the Cape, we had to
physically lift out paddler 3 from his kayak, as he was unable to alight
himself. The weather forecast was iffy. We agreed to push for at least
Indian Cove, a well-protected camping spot just before the Cape, to shelter
us from the growing south easterly. It was do-or die paddling. I pushed both
men about as hard as possible, both mentally and physically. After an entire
day against near-gale winds, it picked up to a full gale. There was a
3-meter westerly swell pounding the rocks near the Cape, so it wasn't
possible to tuck under the lee of the cliffs as paddler 3 wasn't comfortable
in those kind of rock garden situations. Also, some of the geologically
remnant headlands forced us way out from any available lee protection. It
was often almost impossible to pull back into the lee-protection once around
the headland, as a south east wind is actually an off-shore wind given the
lay of the land and low-pressure circulation patterns up there. Somehow the
guys were able to follow me but were down to their last reserves. I'd have
loved to see the Cape that day myself. They screamed for me to pull into
shelter. Admittedly, it's difficult to explain just how cold those waves
felt as they broke over rocky reefs and shot up the cold, 8-degree Celsius
spray into one's face.

Indian Cove was unmistakably well named. First Nation seafarers obviously
had this spot pegged for easy landings and manageable accommodation away
from the maelstrom of a Sou-easter. Winds blew ferociously above the high
coastal mainland trees, far above us. I figured we would work our way down
the coast over the next few days, using currents and back eddies to our
advantage as needed. Paddler 3 was under a veil of extreme anxiety. He did
not want to face the surf of Burnett Bay after reading about a mishap in Sea
Kayaker magazine in that same spot. I tried to make him understand that he
could swim his kayak in and that we would talk him through it if we needed
to land.

The next morning dawned warmer and sunny, with a small craft warning and an
approaching storm a day away. I had a Radio Shack weather radio, and it was
difficult to hear it properly. Paddler 2 did the tide calculations. We
decided to poke around to the Cape and see what was possible. Paddler 2
suddenly broke camp while we were still eating early breakfast. "Guess were
going now" I said. We charged off after him. I had already made a decision
to slow down and make sure I stayed back with paddler 3. I'd come to realize
by that point, that a team is only as strong as it's weakest link. What if
it had been me, with tendonitis or something?

Paddler 2 was at the Cape first. As we paddled up to him, he let up a trial
balloon. Why not cross Queen Charlotte Strait right then and there. We had a
tide to push us all day to Port Hardy, we could "bounce off" Storm Island,
and be on the other side, on Vancouver Island's shore by afternoon and avoid
SURF, and get paddler 3 home earlier to warmth and conveniences by taking
this shorter route (which is actually just as long when one does the math),
rather than proceeding down to the usual crossing point at Shelter Bay with
a narrowing weather-window. The problem was the new route wasn't on our
official float plan meticulously filed with the Coast Guard. I wasn't sure
about the tide as the planned close shore work hadn't necessitated working
out the math -- I didn't even bring tables. The Seymour Inlet tide outflow
from Slingsby Channel is akin to putting your thumb on the end of a garden
hose -- a real navigation concern, even far from shore if strong enough.

Paddler 2 gave an estimate of a two-hour crossing time to Storm Island (an
emergency pull-out) at the questioning of paddler 3. Paddler 3 had grave
concerns, voicing the obvious that "a lot can happen in two hours" given
that part of the coast, and given the weather changes and rapidly developing
lows we had undergone daily. We had only the briefest discussion, with
paddler 3 agreeing but hesitant. I'd questioned both men earlier about the
poor maintenance of their kayaks, but paddler 2 had completed his fibreglass
field repairs and paddler 3 had rechecked his rudder cables (he was a
rudder-dependant paddler). I figured we could turn and run if we didn't like
the way things developed. With multitude red flags waving, and a cup
overflowing with lemons, we set off at a brisk pace, our charts cut off as
we crossed the edge of the snipped margins.

The sea state worsened. I was unable to take a back-bearing by paddle-shaft
alignment, due to a surf-log encounter that winter that had split the seems
on my kayak and given me whiplash. We didn't seem to be holding course, and
paddler 3 was slowing down already. Paddler 2 assured me the course was
still true. I was trying to line up Storm Island with a big hill in the
distance on Vancouver Island, but things were hazy and my glasses were
salting up. Paddler 2 kept racing ahead. I kept my promise to keep back with
paddler 3. It quickly picked up to a near gale an hour out. We had to space
ourselves as each boat behaved differently, and correspondingly, each
paddler took their own track.

Paddler 2 asked me how I was doing. I said ok, but expressed concerns over
the trajectory issue, and that paddler 3 looked like he was in failure mode
again. At some point a bit later paddler 2 asked paddler 3 on their own how
paddler 3 was doing, and Paddler 3 said he reported to paddler 2, "not
well," and said paddler 3 then replied that the decision had already been
made to proceed. Things grew worse. Then paddler 3's rudder cable broke in
the increasingly difficult seas. I didn't want him to turn back, as a
following sea would have been an invitation to a broach and capsize by
paddler 3, I figured. Not wanting to embarrass paddler 3, I suggested I hook
my tow line to his bow to provide directional stability into the wind.
Paddler 3 agreed reluctantly. Easier said than done, but eventually I
clipped on.

Paddler 2 came over and said we could put in at Storm Island for repairs and
or a bivouac. I wondered if the guys knew how difficult seal landings were
with loaded boats, and I wondered what kind of night it would be stuck on an
island, given how bad some of the camping had been in sheltered inlets in
the cold and wet, let alone storm-bound on some God-forsaken spot. As the
gale developed and seas grew steeper, paddler 3 became increasingly cold and
tired. In an ideal help-tow situation, one should hardly feel much
resistance. That was not to be the case.

Paddler 3 remained far ahead in the middle distance. I used screaming,
uncharacteristically foul language, and my whistle to gain attention of
paddler 2 every time I needed to form a raft to rehydrate. I sorely could
have used a hands-free hydration pack. At some point I cursed at paddler 2,
mentioning that the ferry angle needed to deal with the wind drift was still
too severe to just be wind-related -- that there must be a tidal
miscalculation, and that I would tow paddle 3 on my own damn bearing and
ferry-angle compensation factor.

In the end, we needed each other at various intervals. I kept insisting that
we could make it, and tried to suggest Storm Island was getting closer. In
actuality, we were being swept into the open sound, positioning ourselves a
mile or two off Storm Island directly downstream after seven plus hours of
intense, all out paddling, unable to move forward against wind and opposing
tide. It became increasingly difficult to break the raft, as it took all our
effort to turn back into the wind and not get tangled in the tow line each
time. It was completely demoralizing to loose half an hours progress every
time we rafted up due to the powerful current. I was in the most in need of
hydration due to the tow situation. At times, my upper back muscles were
cramping badly. My orders to paddler 3 were to concentrate on keeping
upright, my sole concern. It was difficult talking it through with him in
the wind. Paddler 3's lips were swelling up from the constant heavy spray,
and his hands were going raw.

At times, I'd claw my way up 10 foot breaking whitecaps, just as paddler 3
behind me would get hit by an out-of-sync wave. The strain was tremendous. A
rear deck tow might have been a better alternative to my torso-tow harness.
We eventually saw a tug towing a barge, not an ideal rescue craft I
suggested to the guys. We rafted in breaking seas as paddler 2 had the only
VHF, sealed in his rear compartment. We opened the rear hatch as best we
could with cold, cramped, numb fingers, discarding gear into the open seas
to find the buried radio. Paddler 2 let off some Maydays. The tug never
responded. We were truly on our own. The three of us left each other to
private thought for awhile, each man contemplation their respective lives to
date, the loved ones at home, and just how we had gotten ourselves into such
a predicament. Perhaps that is the most painful part in these types of
scenarios, namely knowing they could be so easily avoided. Mental anguish
can be very misunderstood, demoralizing factor.

Things grew worse. Paddler 3 was crying uncontrollably, shivering, swearing
mightily, and somewhat incoherent. Then paddler 2 split his side seems in
the wild waters, further confused by the westerly swell, southerly wind
waves, and tidal current jumbled by the topography off the bottom end of the
Storm Island. I knew he wasn't exaggerating when he couldn't get his bilge
pump out, which was tucked in between the seat and hull. The boat had
sagged, pinching the pump. Paddler 2's knee tube was full of water when I
peered in. Wow. And paddler 2 was getting cold, real cold.

I asked God to get us to the island. I didn't want a rescue. I didn't
realize how bad paddler 3 was though. I'd already lambasted the guys at
Rivers Inlet for trying to call up the water taxi, and had called them a
couple of wusses. At the worst possible time, I had fallen back into that
same negative mindset, but there, in open seas in a really difficult
position. I was really mad at paddler 2 for not assisting with the tow. I
figured we could have made the island with one final,
dig-deep-for-all-your-worth push. He disagreed. In the post-mortem later, he
said we would have probably died for sure if he had helped tow, deterred
from calling in a rescue by me.

I was dehydrated and we were out of water. We hadn't ate since 7:30 am. I
prayed for a fair resolve to our problem. We later saw some trawlers
swishing by Strom Island, beating for the shelter of Fitz Hugh Sound.
Paddler 2 and 3 got out their 12-gauge flare guns and fired up the VHF,
unfortunately on low power at first. I refused to fully participate with the
flares. I figured if we didn't get rescued, we would flush-out in the dark
off the top of Vancouver Island at night. The two other men would die, and I
would need my flares and other high-shooting pyrotechnics to summon help if
I saw lights from a fishing vessel (flares are best seen at night).  Crass
perhaps, but I had two young girls and a lovely wife to think about. And my
gear was fairly top-notch. Theirs wasn't (I was irredeemably childish about
this issue in retrospect). And besides, I really thought we could make if
the tide turned. I also just couldn't face failure. It wasn't my style. I'm
not wired for it.

I agreed to tow the two men as a raft so they could perform flare and radio
duties. Paddler 3 was so far gone, I later found out, that he could barely
comprehend how to use the gun. He also almost shot paddler 2 in the face
with the flare discharge. Paddler 2 then realized how seriously hypothermic
paddler 3 was. Unknown to us, Comox had picked up our earlier Mayday but we
couldn't receive their signal. The trawlers tried closing in but could see
nothing in the jumble of seas. Flares didn't help pinpoint us either, other
than a general vicinity indicator. That was surprising. Fortunately, the
military at 442 Squadron had sent up a Buffalo under direction from Victoria
Rescue Coordination, and the pilot gave the bearings to the trawler captain
of the vessel that was closest to us. The pilot was able to locate us by
having paddler 2 and 3 shoot flares straight up.

My tow line belt, quick-release, was pulled just as the trawler's starboard
stabilizer entangled. I tried shooting pictures from my waterproof
disposable camera, but as soon as I let go of the paddle with one hand and
looked through the view-finder (thereby loosing my horizon) I'd get knocked
over by a wave. I rolled a few times, even tough I was in the lee of the
vessel and protected from the seas somewhat. It cleared my glasses
instantly. I could see again. Yeah, Storm Island looked far away. Paddler 3
was in the worst shape and in need of medical attention, so I ceased my
attempts at documenting the rescue photographically to assist the deckhands
with the logistics of getting an incapacitated paddler out of his cockpit
and subsequently the heavy expedition-rigged kayak over the railings.
Precise timing was needed just as the swell peaked and the fish boat rolled.
A gaff hook was used to retrieve the kayak after paddler 3 was brought
aboard. The kayak's hull was heavily damaged in the sea-saw attempts to
bring it aboard. Paddler 2 followed the same drill, his boat irreversibly
damaged with one final and ignoble death knell as it went over the railing
and as water gushed out. Then it was my turn, my recently refurbished kayak
with quadruple seems and 17-foot, plastic rub-strip on the hull, gliding
over the railings. Just love that tough kayak some days.

Paddler 3 was stripped down, placed in a warm bed and hydrated with warmish
tea. I was concerned over shock from too rapid a rewarming, but the sea
savvy fisherman had their ways. Fortunately the Coast Guard arrived shortly
on their fast-response Zodiac, deploying a rescue paramedic who administered
hot steam and oxygen into paddler 3. Within 40", he was doing better, crying
and thanking me for towing him and keeping him going. I felt a bit sheepish,
as it was partly my fault he almost perished. Talk about a complexity of
commingled emotions and some necessarily deep soul searching. Alas, I
figured, back to solo paddling. Paddler 3's sentiments exactly too.

We couldn't transfer to the CG lifeboat until we made shelter closer to
Storm Island. Once the fishboat had turned back toward Storm Island, the
skipper suddenly realized with a surprised startle, how powerful the current
really was. He'd never experienced it before. We finally had some empathy.
We found out once aboard the lifeboat (a slow moving cutter) that an unusual
tidal anomaly circulates water in an almost constant direction northwest off
Cape Caution at certain times, and this was further made worse by record
snowfall and estuarine outflow. And we thought we had done our research.
Ocean Sciences confirmed in a subsequent phone call to them that indeed the
current we experienced off Storm Island would not have slowed down for
another day. Dave was right, we probably never would have made it without an
outside rescue.

Once back at the Coast Guard station at Port Hardy, I went into
uncontrollable shivering the second I stepped onto the dock. After almost
twenty years of storm paddling I'd learned to time-release my adrenaline and
control internal heat regulating mechanisms until safe back on land. I was
assisted to the staff showers, and had a luke warm shower, only slowly
increasing the hot water. We ate more pizza and drank more beer that night
than I care to admit, while getting a severe poking at by the largely, local
native contingent in the bar. We had a warm night at a hotel. I was up
early, doing push ups. Gotta love that testosterone thing.

I called my wife finally. She was worried sick, as the unfolding rescue
about "three men and a storm" had played out on the local news that
afternoon. She hadn't wanted me to go in the first place, and had plainly
told me so, registering her displeasure in no uncertain terms the morning I
left a week earlier. Upon our return to Victoria, the media showed up, but
paddler 2 and 3 refused interviews. I did not, and obliged a photo shoot
too, figuring there would be a small blurb in the paper at the back. No such
luck, it was headlines the next day with a full photo. Curiously, my wife
wasn't in the picture beside my boat. Paddler 3 was later approached by a
television producer soliciting a re-enactment of the incident for some
real-life show. He refused. He wanted nothing more than to forget the whole
thing. I remained a thorn in his side for some time.

******************
We were all experienced paddlers -- 55 years between us. We got into
trouble. It can happen. Certain combinations of paddlers sometimes don't
work. On water decision making and the problems paddling with other partners
is something too often overlooked. Most articles saccharine-coat the
subject. Sometimes it's not pretty out there. I'm sure the team that just
went around Iceland know just what I'm talking about.

In retrospect, it was one of my favourite on-water adventure experiences.
I'm sorry to have caused my family grief, for the loss of friendships, the
strain to our increasingly-depleted rescue-resources, for the trouble
incurred by Matt Broze and Sea Kayaker magazine when I released details in
frustration and prevented an article coming out, and for boring anyone here
with these details. But I thank paddlewisers for always being so
understanding with me.

Doug Lloyd
Victoria BC
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From: Doug Lloyd <dalloyd_at_telus.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Requests for Cape Caution Incident Details
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 2003 22:36:01 -0800
The incident took place in 1999, not 96. I should have proofed the post
first but went to bed instead.

(Hope all you paddlewisers in California are safe -- sounds really bad down
there. We should send some rain down your way. Port Renfrew had 566
millimetres a week or so ago, all in a few days.)

Doug Lloyd
Victoria BC
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From: Stephen Bird <StephenBird_at_superaje.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] ECCKF 2004 Dates
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 16:24:20 -0500
Greetings...

I have to do some long-term vacation planning at my workplace, so I need to
confirm that the East Coast Canoe & Kayak Festival happens April 16-19,
2004 in Charleston, SC. If these dates are not correct, then could you
kindly let me know... many thanks!
-- 
cheers, Stephen

P.S. I'll be driving south from the Ottawa area (assuming my work schedule
is ok), so if anyone is interested in a convoy and some paddling going and
coming please keep me in mind... :-)
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From: Doug Lloyd <dalloyd_at_telus.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Requests for Cape Caution Incident Details
Date: Tue, 28 Oct 2003 23:57:04 -0800
I said:
>>>Paddler 3 was as always, a strong year-round paddler with open water
experience and a highly
efficient stroke. Paddler 3 did not have open water experience, nor even a
surf helmet with him.<<<

That should be "Paddler 2 was as always..."

Doesn't really matter, but you know how it goes with this post post-editing
stuff...

Be careful out there. Stay within your limits. Leave that margin. Surviving
by margins is what it's all about, whether you are Wal-Mart or paddler.

Doug Lloyd
Victoria BC
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From: Doug Lloyd <dalloyd_at_telus.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Requests for Cape Caution Incident Details
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 00:25:44 -0800
One more error:
>>>"Paddler 3 was later approached by a television producer soliciting a
re-enactment of the incident for some real-life show. He refused..."

That should be paddler 2.

There were some other small errors. I should have kept it back-channel.
Sorry Kirk for the bandwidth.

Doug Lloyd
Victoria BC
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From: Gary J. MacDonald <garyj_at_rogers.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Requests for Cape Caution Incident Details
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 07:48:23 -0500
Doug Lloyd wrote:
> There were some other small errors. I should have kept it back-channel.
> Sorry Kirk for the bandwidth.

1.	No problem on the editorial stuff.  Great story.
2.	Good for such stories to get out.  Lessons for all.
3.	Is bandwidth usage that much of a problem for the list?
4.	When people use the term "back channel" I am reminded of my first 
encounter with the phrase:  used to refer to a part of the anatomy.

GaryJ
-- 
Director, Family Canoeing Centre
Recreational canoeing courses for the whole family.

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