[Paddlewise] White Cap Fringe - 2

Nearing the top of Henry Island, a small islet presented itself. I could see
a number of seals basking in the sunlight, so went out of my way to give
them a wide berth of privacy - hopefully helping them with their energy
conservation needs. I rode the tide into Roche Harbor, finding the Custom's
booth had been moved back to the dormant winter position. With the office
displaying a closed sign, I phoned Friday Harbor. An agent was in transit.
The young lady officer eventually arrived, glad for the break-up in her
daily routine. She fired up the computer, I got my clearance number before
finally vacating the dock with a customary seal launch.

My host arrived quickly with a friend in the bay, loading my kayak for me as
I was feeling unwell. The ensuing weekend was one of peace and repose at a
waterfront home known for redoubt, good company, fun and food. Heart, body,
mind and spirit were at rest. A paddler who hadn't been kayaking in over two
years joined the group paddle on Saturday, adding an unmistakable highlight
to the weekend. It's so easy to forget one's seafaring passion amidst the
flurry of daily activities, job and family.

A particularly bad irregular heartbeat session in the early morning awoke me
Sunday, which was just as well. I needed to get back to Canada. Winds were
coming up early, swinging to SE 10 to 20 knots, with wind waves 1 to 3 feet.
Against a big ebb mid-channel, the sooner the start, the better. I was on
the water by 7:30 am, heading for Turn Point where I would attempt to
minimize my ferry glide angle over to Rum Island on the Canadian side. By
the time I'd passed Spieden Island and made it out along the exposed side of
Stewart Island, the wind was picking up to 20 knots.

Five minutes out from the lighthouse at Turn Point on Stewart Island, a
large freighter loomed into view, quickly having appeared from around the
corner. I estimated its speed, my position, and the intended vessel course
through the International Shipping Channel. I've played cat-and-mouse with
large vessels entering inlets for ports like Tahsis out on the west coast in
times past on rougher days, and had come to the conclusion that discretion
is always the best option. It was a pain to back paddle in the building seas
and await the vessels passage. It didn't take long for the green China
Shipping Line freighter to pass by as I skulled for support in its immediate
wake. I practiced some deep, square breathing to keep calm, not wanting to
get my heart going.

The remainder of the crossing was exceptionally wonderful. A Minke Whale
passed by. Whitecaps were building nicely, slapping wild at the bow directly
abeam to port. Though such a simple phenomenon, I never cease to be amazed
at nature's patterns - each so individual and infinite in possibilities. In
the case of the waves, every one was dramatically rippled with gusting
"Cat's Paws," blowing frantically with the flow up and down the faces of the
breaking waves. I developed a lovely forearm muscle burn, in each arm - a
true sign of physical, joyous attainment while moving one's self across a
body of water under one's own power.

The wind proved more of a consideration as opposed to the ebb current
direction/strength and my original route selection, causing me to miss Rum
Island by a mile northward. No problems. There was lots of scope for a route
back to Sidney. There was a gale warning up for Juan de Fuca, and so wind
spillage poured over Vancouver Island, giving the sailors a great day out
off Sidney. I needed the occasional slap support cum skull, which always
brings a smile to my face. One doesn't want to get too bored. I pushed hard
into Sidney Harbor, reaching the dock by noon precisely (my intended arrival
time). I phoned Canada Customs and got the usual quizzical meanderings about
folks kayaking across alone. There was twist this time: they wouldn't give
me a clearance number. They couldn't be bothered. Odd, given the recent
kayaking drug busts for those who paddle that particular fringe.

Doug Lloyd
Victoria BC
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