Hello, I am trying to finish my electric bilge pump for my kayak. At first, I was thinking electronic valves, but I found that they will not do the job for me. They are too big and expensive, among other things. So, I am asking for your help - I need one of these two things (either, not both): 1.) Either 3/4 inch, 1 inch, 1 1/8 inch (ideal) check valve. The check valve must be small, semi cheap, seal perfectly when closed (not ONE drip), and be able to open with the slightest pressure (just a dribble of water pushing up from the pump) [or] 2.) A 3/4 inch or 1 1/8 inch 12 volt electric water pump (about 800-1000 gallons per hour) that needs to be pretty light. The pump MUST not let ONE drip of water back through it when off. This means it will act as a check valve. I had bought one at West Marine, where they told me it didn't let any water back, but it does. :-( Thanks for your help! Karl *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
At 03:33 PM 6/12/2004 -0400, Karl Timmermann wrote: > Lots of snipping >The check valve >must be small, semi cheap, seal perfectly when closed (not ONE drip), and be >able to open with the slightest pressure (just a dribble of water pushing up >from the pump) > >[or] > > The pump MUST not let ONE >drip of water back through it when off. Karl, Not one drop of water seems a pretty severe requirement. It is difficult to find a check valve that does that unless, perhaps, it's built like the check valves in blood vessels. Can you reach the discharge port in your deck? If so, one approach might be to cap or plug it from the outside and manually remove the cap/plug as needed. Bill Leonhardt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Hi.. this is from a 1999 entry to a thread about electric pumps. To see the whole thread go to http://www.paddlewise.net/topics/boatequip/elecpumps.html Check valves: These permit water flow from the pump and prevent backflow. I used a modified 1/2 inch pvc valve designed for home plumbing systems. I decreased the opening pressure (200 psi) by unscrewing the spring cap, cutting the spring roughly in half, bending the cut tip to fit the cap, then putting it all back together. This cut the opening pressure acceptably, so that the valve did not appreciably slow the pump's outflow. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Not sure what your set up is but, discharge opening above the waterline, through the deck and the need for a perfect check valve isn't quite so urgent - still want a check valve of some sort but above the waterline is a drier location. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I had an electric pump system installed and working smoothly for several years. (I removed it for winter maintenance 2 years ago, and haven't gotten 'round to reinstalling it). I used a 1/2 inch check valve designed for home plumbing systems and had to modify it by cutting the spring to decrease the opening pressure. There is a web page that discusses electric pump systems, including mine in detail, at: http://www.paddlewise.com/topics/boatequip/elecpumps.html Bob Volin *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
I have installed bilge pumps with both top deck and side discharge above the waterline. My preference is for top deck discharge. For a check valve I use a rubber plug. The plug is drilled lengthwise for the insertion of a cord, to tie the plug to the boat. I have also tried a check valve that came from BoatUS. It had a valve mechanism similar to a heart valve. The check valve leaked some, but then so does a sprayskirt. Dana > -----Original Message----- > From: Keith Wrage <keith.wrage_at_charter.net> > Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Electric Bilge Pump Question > > Not sure what your set up is but, discharge opening above the > waterline, > through the deck and the need for a perfect check valve isn't > quite so > urgent - still want a check valve of some sort but above the > waterline is a > drier location. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Dana wrote: - >My preference is for top deck discharge. >For a check valve I use a rubber plug. >The plug is drilled lengthwise..... G'Day Dana and Paddlewise, I use the same system and agree about the top discharge being better. A nice thing about the plug system is it also helps to keep those last remnants of saltwater leaking out on to the top of my car during transport home. Just occasionally I forget to put the plug in and halfway though a choppy trip will notice the cockpit starting to fill with water. Seems to me that even just a few litres of water sloshing around in the cockpit of a hardshell really spoils the performance of my kayak in a following sea. All the best, PeterO *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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