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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: [Paddlewise] An Aussie at the New York City Downtown Boathouse (Long)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2004 20:33:36 +1000
G'Day,

A year ago today I was lucky enough to visit the New York City Downtown
Boathouse. The following report has been far too long coming. If it
encourages other potential visitors the link is
http://www.downtownboathouse.org/equipment.html . My deep appreciation goes
to Ralph Diaz, Richard Muller, Tim Gamble, Harry Spitz, David Gordon and all
the other good people of the club for their friendship and hospitability to
a relative stranger from Oz.


FRIDAY 20th JUNE 2003
There^Rs a standing wave in the middle of the Hudson River. I can see it from
the Jumbo jet. Its June 2003 and I^Rve spent two days getting from Sydney
Harbour Australia to New York. Tomorrow I^Rm going to be paddling in that
river!

SATURDAY 21st JUNE 2003
Richard Muller and Tim Gamble, longstanding volunteers at the Downtown Boat
House, have kindly organised a kayak trip or two for me in the next few
days. So I leave an excellent and cheap hotel called the Cosmopolitan and
walk a few blocks to the water. On the Lower West Side Manhattan, within a
stones throw of the Statue of Liberty, is a grey breeze block cement
building. Snaggle toothed posts poke out of the water beneath it and a sign
on the front says ^SDowntown Boathouse^T. Its 7am, the air is brisk and I^Rm
way early so there^Rs no-one in site but there^Rs no doubting the location, a
set of four notice boards describe in detail how the Boat House is run.

Then along comes a young man on a bicycle towing a trailer. Well of course
this is folding boat territory and that^Rs exactly what he^Rs towing. He
stops, says ^SHi^T and starts to unload and assemble a Feathercraft K-Light. I
^Rve not seen a K-Light being put together before and have heard varying
reports, but this boat assembles very easily. I^Rm suitably impressed, then
astounded as he pulls apart his full sized folding bike and packs it away in
the boat. The wheels go in a plastic disk shaped bag on the stern. I fear
for its stability but in the water he looks very comfortable paddling what
looks for all the world like a miniature kayak version of the Starship
Enterprise from Star Trek.

Now Harry Spitz, arrives and immediately makes me feel as though I'm a life
time member. He^Rs the trip leader today and opens up the Boat House. Every
kind of kayak lines up in row upon row and gear protrudes from nooks and
crannies everywhere. It^Rs like Dr Who^Rs Tardis ^V far bigger inside than out;
kayaker heaven and I^Rm just waiting for the angels to sing! Harry has
organized what looks like the very best boat in the house for me ^V A Kevlar
Dagger. A large but surprisingly light boat that just skims through the
water.

I hardly believe it as we paddle around the Statue of Liberty, can^Rt think
of a better way to be seeing it.. We stay a reasonable distance from the
security marker buoys but nevertheless a boat that looks like the local
coast guard comes over to check what we were doing. There^Rs a 150 yard limit
on approaching the island. Then we pass through Port Liberte, New Jersey, a
village of very fine houses set up in a system of canals, a miniature Venice
but without the smell, and then its time to paddle around the back of the
statue and under a bridge and around to a floating boat restaurant where we
climb on to a wharf about the same size as at the fish market in Sydney, but
unlike Sydney, there's no group of diners curiously looking on to see if any
of us fall in! Lunch and coffee, great! And finally we paddle back across
the Hudson seeing the Empire State tower and the Woolworth building.

The conditions are flat and when asked I suggest the paddle is a grade 1.
But appearances are deceptive - the currents can be fierce as I will
discover on Sunday. One of our group, Eric invites me to join him and some
friends in a circumnavigation of Manhattan Island. I^Rm told with careful
timing the currents can just about carry a kayaker all the way around and
the conditions are going to be exactly right at 2 am on Monday morning. I
have to decline as I^Rve got an early appointment on Tuesday. But I will
always regret missing the chance.

A wonderful day I^Rll never forget

SUNDAY 23rd JUNE 2003
The following day, again I^Rm at the Boat House and this time the trip leader
is David Gordon. He is a muscular looking paddler and has found me a red
plastic Dagger, somewhat smaller than yesterdays but about the size I^Rm used
to. There's a bigger turnout today including some newcomers to the sport. I^R
m feeling privileged as new visitors are usually offered sit on tops, which
are safe, albeit slow.

About 15 minutes into the paddle one of the group, who is recovering from a
party the night before, turns back with David^Rs assistance. David must have
been getting a huge workout paddling back and forth in the current. There is
a spread of ability and boat performance in the group and I paddle with a
pleasant woman who is very keen to take up kayaking and who wants to get
some experience before making her first boat purchase. She is capable and
determined and maintains a respectable pace despite the fact she is in a
broad beamed sit on top.

The water is covered with a soft mist and has the same deceptively flat
quality as yesterday. We cross the Hudson and potter between the wharves
then turn for home. We stop from time to time to avoid ferry^Rs and boats and
are carried somewhat down stream, so make an effort to ferry glide back.
However, by the time the last three of us return we are sufficiently far
down stream that its necessary for David, me and the young woman to take the
SOT in a tandem tow against a three knot current. Haven^Rt worked so hard in
all my life! It took about 15 minutes to paddle past a tourist boat and into
the wharf adjacent to the Boat House, then through the snaggle toothed posts
to Pier 26. I didn^Rt presume to grade that paddle!! Two lessons here were:
the value of the tandem tow David set up, I much preferred it to the
parallel tow I^Rm accustomed to; and the value on this occasion of shorter
tow ropes. The 15 metre towline, which is mandatory for our sea kayak club,
would have been inappropriate on the Hudson because of the risk of taking it
through the path of an oncoming boat or entanglement in posts.

Later that day I have a chance to meet Ralph Diaz who describes the history
of the area and shows me where JFK junior used to live. He was a keen
visitor to the Boat House, though I^Rm told that he did not always wear a
PFD. Ralph also talked a little about the Twin Towers. The site was a couple
of streets away from my hotel but I could not bring myself to go there
through fear of the disrespect implied in visiting as a tourist. I had read
Ralph^Rs descriptions of the twin towers viewed from the Hudson as he kayaked
and am grateful that he encouraged me to eventually visit. It is a
reconstruction site but there were both subtle and obvious signs of the
restrained dignity with which New York is treating this area. Enough said.

Lunch with Ralph, Nancy and Nina is filled with talk of kayak assisted
swimming races around Manhattan and battles with fierce currents and issues
of helping swimmers to land when landing facilities are unavailable. I am
hugely impressed but strive to hold my own with a tale of the Navy divers in
Sydney who tour the swimmers racing ^Qroute^R to scare away sharks prior to a
race. There are no sharks in the Hudson but there is some hope that one day
they may return. In the afternoon Ralph shows me a Chinese folding boat he
is trying out called Atlatl with a most ingenious pulley system for
inserting the frame into the skin. And of course I get my first edition of
the Complete Folding Kayaker autographed. Thanks Ralph.

MONDAY 23rd JUNE 2003
Can^Rt keep away from the place so turn up again on Monday evening and what a
maelstrom of activity: There^Rs water polo, paddlers learning to roll and
people paddling for the first time ever, at least some of them are, one of
them isn^Rt paddling at all. He is reclining in the back seat of a double and
smoking a cigarette while encouraging his partner ^V who is paddling
furiously ^V ^Syou^Rre doing just fine honey^T.

I join in one of the Rolling classes with some trepidation but can^Rt come
all this way and not roll. So I do so with determination and finesse. Then
on to take photo^Rs of the water polo teams. I^Rm waiting for them to get the
ball in the air but they all stop to smile at the camera!!! Eventually the
game resumes and I get my chance.

The organization is both unobtrusive and enormously impressive. Visitors
seem to go on the water with just a little introduction, but a clear set of
safety guidelines. Those that come back have the opportunity to learn a
variety of skills including rolling and rescues during the summer evenings.
I was told that 7000 people came through the Boat House in 2002 (today the
web site tells me that in 2003 this increased to over 13,400 different
people, for approximately 27,000 trips on the Hudson). An extraordinary
achievement by any standards. I asked if this was regarded as compromising
the market for the local commercial operators but the club opinion was that
it actually increased the customer base and certainly the commercial
operator down the road had no qualms in introducing me to the club.

So finally and sadly its over and I finish the evening with a few beers and
a chat with Harry. I very much want to go back. Vive New York City Downtown
Boathouse!!!

All the best, PeterO
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