John said (snip): > I added an extra "football" shape 6 0z layer on the hull and deck around > the cockpit and 9 oz tape down the keel line on the hull. It still weighs > in the low 40's. You could add quite a bit of extra glass, kevlar, dyonel > (spelling) to it without making it really heavy. Thanks John for the suggestions, and thanks to the others who posted a reply as well. I spent the other night on the internet into the wee hours of the morning looking over all the major players with web sites and galleries. I think making a wood-based kayak is the way to go for my specific needs, and I can really put to good use my Lie-Nielsen planes I'm getting for Christmas. I once contemplated moulding up and making an all-epoxy killer wave machine, but working in wood seems a little more realistic (especially given I'm more than a casual woodworker). I like the fact it can be done piece-meal in terms of budgeting, as the kayak's components can slowly be acquired. Having said all that, I do like the "look" of a well-executed modern sea kayak, like a Seaward/Foster, Necky or other reputable builder's production boat. Glass boats have a certain industrial/tech appeal that takes some adjusting to move away from, and the quality of some of these kayaks in the last couple of years is truly incredible (at least in my neck of the woods, and at the point where I'd be willing to spend some real bucks - if I had them). Not sure if strip or ply will be the way to go, but I do support Duane's comments about making your own kayak being very worthwhile. One of the best sea kayaks I've ever seen on the water in terms of performance/comfort/payload/price was a home built plywood/epoxy, home-designed unit by local paddler Doug Alderson. He defines the sport by how little he spends on gear/boats (his time/labour being free to himself). I'm not overly thrilled with any of the designs commercially available in plan form so far, if the truth be known (no offence to anyone intended), so I will have to do some research and perhaps some trials. I've been reading some of the prolific posts on the Qajaq forum (Shawn Baker has over 1600 posts!) trying to gleam some data input. Nick's builders forum is a great source of info too, and I do have his book, plus ones by other authors. I may do a cedar strip version of the Nordkapp Jubilee (with permission, whether it is legally required or not), and perhaps do a major cockpit reconfiguration/rear recess to permit more integrated lay-back rolls while retaining gear capacity. I think I would be reasonably capable of woodworking a strip hull into the complex contours normally avoided to produce a "faired" hull, eliminating some of the flattish spots one sees on plywood hulls and even strip-builts. I could even strip-build a Nadgee, or is that a Mariner Max - okay, let's not go there, I've only got mini-nuts tonight. :-) I doubt I'd go for fancy inlay work if I go the wood kayak route, rather concentrating efforts to reproduce a post-modern kayak where all components like wrapped bulkheads, thigh braces, etc, were constructed/carved in wood. We shall see. Again, I really appreciate the input from everyone, and the efforts to add a little water to reconstitute the wood-is-good ideation. Doug Lloyd Victoria BC *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Mon Aug 09 2004 - 23:27:07 PDT
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