Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle Talk

In a message dated 2/18/2005 8:28:08 PM Pacific Standard Time,  
strosaker_at_yahoo.com writes:

((Topic  1-Paddle Length: I noticed that Werner now has a paddle sizing chart 
at  http://www.wernerpaddles.com/choose.html . What surprised me about it is 
that  they are recommending a paddle length of 210 cm for average size sea 
kayakers  who use a high angle stroke. I'm an average size guy (5', 10") who has 
been  using a high angle stroke for the last several years, and I've been 
happy with  a 215 cm Werner Shuna. Most other paddlers who I know and use a high 
angle  stroke also prefer a length around 215 cm. I don't plan to change to a 
210 cm,  but I was curious why Werner is recommending it. A 210 cm seems a bit 
short,  especially for any kind of distance.  On the other hand, if I was 
goofing  around just practicing BCU 3 star strokes, a 210 cm would be nice. Are 
there  many 210 cm users out there? I think I remember Rob Gibbert in Washington 
 mentioning he uses a shorter paddle like that, and he's over 6 feet  tall.))

I looked at the Werner site and found it interesting that someone 5' 5" to  
6'2" would likely use a similar paddle length, given the same boat width.  
Equally interesting, my wife and I use the same paddle and length, a 210cm  Lendal 
Kinetic.  She is more comfortable than ever with her 210cm switching  down 
from a 215cm Kaui. She switched from the Kaui as the old style ferule was  
wearing down and the joint needed beefing up. We needed another 4 piece paddle  so 
we went with the Lendal Kinetic as they make the best 4 piece systems,  
IMNSHO. 
 
I personally like the 210cm length, having come down from a 215cm. I do  
notice the difference, though it is subtle. The Kinetic blade links strokes  
really well and the shaft length seems to be right on the money. Werner suggests  
if you have a high angle stroke, a boat width less than 22", are 6'2" or more, 
a  205cm may be appropriate. I doubt I would go there, though, even though I 
fit  into all three criteria.
 
One conventional theory holds that you should be able to curl your fingers  
over the blade if standing next to your upright paddle. I'm glad that paddle  
makers are enabling their users with better info these days. I started with a  
240 and went to a 230. Then, I took a "radical" step and...oooooh...bought a  
220cm. By then 215's were passe' and I still like it, almost as much as my  
210cm. However, I reserve the right to change my mind on the 210cm as I have  
only about a hundred miles on it. So far I find it to be about right.

((Topic 3-Carbon Fiber Greenland Paddle: I recently bought a carbon  fiber 
Greenland paddle from Superior Kayaks (  
http://www.superiorkayaks.com/superiorkayaks008.htm ). I'm still a euro blade  die-hard, but this paddle is 
absolutely beautiful, quite cool, and made very  well. It paddles nice too. Even non-GP 
users should have this UFO looking thing  in their collection. I'm surprised 
other paddle manufacturers haven't produced  their own carbon fiber Greenland 
paddles. Any ideas why?))
 
Greenland paddles do not sell themselves, they have to be sold to someone  
that is open minded. Most people do not believe that a stick can propel them  
forward very well. In fact it can quite well, but most instructors, paddle shop  
owners, etc., also prefer EP's. I was interested in them which is why I 
bought  one and made a bunch more. I am more on the EP side of the fence than the 
GP  side, but I really like them both and can use either Ok, I guess. Enjoying 
Sea,  WW and Surf paddling I prefer the EP as my instincts need no memory. The 
 Superior GP is really nice. I borrowed Greg Stamers for a few minutes one 
day  and found it noisier than my wood ones. It can almost be used as a 
hydrophone!  He broke his on Lake Michigan, I believe. You may want to email him on 
the other  forum for better details.

((Topic 4-Lendal Paddlok System: I've got a  Lendal whitewater paddle I use 
for ocean surfing, and it has the Paddlok system  ( http://www.usa.lendal.com/ 
). It is a great way to go for 4-piece paddles, but  it is a bit of trouble to 
rinse off all the parts after use. Also, their isn't  much foam flotation in 
the shaft, leaving lots of room for water to get in it  and swish around. I 
was wondering how well the coil springs in the Paddlok  system have been holding 
up in saltwater. Any corrosion?))
 
I've had Lendals for the past 14 months and take very little care of them.  I 
might wash them every 2 times I go out but that is it. I just put the hose  
into the tube for a few seconds, splash a bit on the blade and they are good to 
 go. I rarely break them down into 4's and wash them as little water gets  
into them. Surfing seems to get a bit of water into them but it was about an  
eyedroppers worth from my last outing. I don't know about the other joint lock  
systems on the market, but Lendals can be field replaced. If you bust a shaft  
section or blade that component can be replaced. I broke a shaft section 
doing  something stupid and it only cost me 57 dollars to make new again. When I 
broke  my Aquabound paddle I had to buy a new one. My Werner 4 piece gets a bit 
more  water in it, however, they have improved that secondary joint since I 
bought  mine. My Molokai is several years old and is too tough to die. Their  
paddles are so good I replaced my Aquabound WW paddle with a Werner  Powerhouse.
 
Little or any at all of the above is scientific, just one hack's  opinion,
Rob G
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