Philip wrote (concerning the across chest webbing loop towing harness): >>>>>Cunning and inexpensive, and I might use it if no other options existed. My concern would be the lack of a "quick-release" capability, unless you tied the loop with a "slippery knot" at the front of the chest, or cut it with your knife.<<<<< This is the system George Gronseth advocates (or at least did last I knew). Release is very simple, the loop is quite oversized, all you have to do is put your forearm (on the side not over your shoulder) inside the loop in front of you and sweep the arm up and out ward to take webbing loop off over your head. Quite simple and quick. Paddle park cleats and bow u-bolts, sounds like maybe you have a Mariner (or maybe a Nimbus) kayak. Short quick release towlines are a standard fixture front and back on most of our sea kayaks (quick release anyhow as long as you have retied the slip knots once they have shrunk after the first use). The slip knots keep the line from going through the hole in the cleats but they pass through easily once the knot is slipped. Simply jerk the slip knot's loose end and you are free of the tow. A few more words on towlines. We settled on 3/16" (6mm) nylon solid braided line because of its strength, easy knotting and its stretchiness. Thinner line is probably plenty strong for towing at sea but is much more subject to tangling into a "birds nest" while being deployed and if ones hand slides on a thin line when it is under tension it much more likely to cut you like a rudder cable can. Heavier line is bulkier does not stretch as well to absorb shock. It likely also needs the extra complication (and bulk) of a bungee shock absorber in the line (when used with a relatively short towline anyhow). A longer towline should be carried for tows in rough seas but for most uses a short towline that is handy and can be quickly deployed is all that is really needed. It is nice to be able to adjust the tow length so the towed boat can "surf " on the towing boats wake (rather than always be climbing up a wake wave). If I had to clear a rudder (as the boats yawed back and forth) I'd probably use George's chest loop system to get the towing point higher. I have no experience with a body mounted tow system in rough seas or for long distances but I've towed kayaks for several miles many times using a boat mounted towline. Not much of a problem other than slowing me down maybe up to one knot. But you better not be dragging your fingers in the water back there, I'll know if you are. If the possibility of being in surf exists I'd avoid towing during that time unless you can release your tow instantly if necessary. I've tried towing a swamped boat in through surf with a 3/8" WW throw rope line. After the first jerk I quickly uncleated the rope from my 5" back deck cleat before the next wave did the uncleating (of the cleat from my deck) for me. After that quick lesson I was still able to tow the swamped boat in through the surf by holding the 3/8 rope in one hand while I paddled. I'd have to circle back to pick up the (floating) rope again whenever my boat was surfed forward on a breaker and I had to drop the line. However, the towing by tugging the towed boat forward (as my right hand pushed the paddle shaft forward) actually worked better than I thought it would. I wouldn't want to do it for long distances though. Matt Broze www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Tue Apr 05 2005 - 22:36:07 PDT
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