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From: Derek <glamourpets_at_yahoo.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Float Switches
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 08:03:55 -0700 (PDT)
Has anyone successfully used a float switch on their
pump systems?  A few different switch options have
been mentioned, but I do not recall anyone using a
float switch.

My concern with any push button type setup is that you
could accidentally run the pump dry.  In most cases,
this can shorten the lifespan of the pump.  With the
float switch, one could allow the switch to float
automatically, or they could lift it manually. 
Thoughts?   Has anyone out there used a float switch
successfully?

Derek



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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Float Switches
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2006 09:54:41 -0700
Derek wrote:
> Has anyone successfully used a float switch on their pump systems?  A
> few different switch options have been mentioned, but I do not recall
> anyone using a float switch.

One problem with a mechanical float switch is that the amount of water
needed to activate the switch may exceed the amount you would tolerate
swashing around in the bilges.

Another problem is that conventional mechanical switches are well-known for
maintenance issues (= failure when you need one the most).  If you are
committed to this type of pump activation, you might prefer a Water Witch (
http://www.waterwitchinc.com/product_sheet/bilge_switchsheet.html ), which
uses a contact-free system for activating the pump.  Buddies out here who
use these in their power boat bilges swear by them, after having had one or
more mechanical float switches fail, sometimes in catastrophic situations.

The simplest model should work for a kayak, and only draws 6 mA at rest.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: Mark Sanders <sandmarks_at_comcast.net>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Float Switches
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2006 12:59:12 -0700
I tried a regular float switch before changing to the Water Witch switch.
Your right, the sloshing water made the regular float switch problematic. It
took a lot of water to turn it on and it shut off with too much still left.
It really would only work well if you lifted it up and kept it up manually,
which is an option.
Instead of the typical mounting for the Water Witch, I have mounted it on
it's side with both electrode facing down so that it goes on and off more at
a certain level. You have to find the spot where the pump will remove enough
water to turn it off.

Mark Sanders
http://sandmarks.home.comcast.net

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net
[mailto:owner-paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net]On Behalf Of Dave Kruger

Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Float Switches

One problem with a mechanical float switch is that the amount of water
needed to activate the switch may exceed the amount you would tolerate
swashing around in the bilges.
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From: Mike Jackson <mhj_at_smus.ca>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Float Switches
Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2006 15:53:45 -0700
In the first attempt I made at an electric bilge pump, I used an 
automatic float switch. But every time I rolled or carried the kayak 
on my shoulder the pump turned on. It also did not empty as well as 
wen under manual control.
All the versions I have used since use a hot tub "air switch" which 
works well. The "button switch" has no corrodible parts and the 
actual electrical switch is safely inside an otterbox.


At 08:03 AM 08/10/2006, Derek wrote:
>Has anyone successfully used a float switch on their
>pump systems?  A few different switch options have
>been mentioned, but I do not recall anyone using a
>float switch.
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From: PeterO <rebyl_kayak_at_iprimus.com.au>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Float Switches
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2006 17:27:52 +1000
Mike wrote:
>All the versions I have used since use a hot tub "air switch" which
>works well. The "button switch" has no corrodible parts and the
>actual electrical switch is safely inside an otterbox.

G'Day,

My experience exactly. After having replaced three electrical switches I
moved to an air switch and its been a model of reliability for three years
now.

All the best, PeterO
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