Based on the photo of your battery pack, it looks like you are running a 12 volt pump with a less than eight volt power pack. That will greatly reduce the pump capacity. The pump will probably take normal 12 volt lead acid battery voltage of 14.4 volts without burnout problems. Increasing your power supply voltage will have more effect on the pump flow rate than marginal increases in flow due to changes in flow resistance in the hose and outlet fittings. Regards, Dana Dickson Dana Dickson MIS CIH CSP | ESH Area Manager | Environmental Safety and Health Unisys | MS 4943 2470 Highcrest Road | Roseville MN 55113 | 651-635-5225 Net2 524-5225 Fax 651-635-7191 THIS COMMUNICATION MAY CONTAIN CONFIDENTIAL AND/OR OTHERWISE PROPRIETARY MATERIAL and is thus for use only by the intended recipient. If you received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the e-mail and its attachments from all computers. > -----Original Message----- > From: kayakwriter_at_aim.com > > In a kayak I had a few years back, I had an Attwood Waterbuster > http://tinyurl.com/2dy7uv In my new boat I wanted a > marine-grade pump that > could be turned on and off with the sprayskirt sealed (so the > boat wouldnbt reswamp), and that ran on AAs rather than D > cells. (I have a solar panel > set-up on my kayak that can recharge AAs but not Ds.) Via > Paddlewise, I > discovered Mike Dalybs set-up: > http://www.greatlakeskayaker.ca/pump.html *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
Philip wrote: >>>>>... Ibm toying with the idea of seacocks that would allow me, in the event of hatch leakage, to drain water from the bow or stern compartments into the cockpit, where the pump could dispose of it. To be operable at sea, that would require a pipe from the bow bulkhead, so Ibll have to decide whether itbs practical.<<<<<< It will also probably require a pipe through each bulkhead that goes out to near the end of the kayak because as the compartment floods that end of the kayak will sink more into the water (and water won't flow up hill to your sea cocks on its own). Further, you will likely need an air bleed into the compartment so that air can get in to replace the water you pump out 9unless maybe the leaking spot serves that function). You will also likely need some way to change hoses on your pump to handle the compartments through bulkhead hoses, unless you can figure some way to blow air into the compartment to push the water out the hose and into the cockpit area where your cockpit pump could get at it. If one is going to use a high capacity electric pump it might be easier to not have hatches and bulkheads but rather use gear bags and/or float bags for flotation. That way one pump would serve the whole boat and you wouldn't need any big hatches that might leak or somehow come off. You would know your kayak was leaking a lot sooner that way as well. Matt Broze www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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