Re: [Paddlewise] [PaddleWise] Rudder mounting

I assume most "end pour" situations from a retro-fit perspective are to 
mount a bracket such as the Seaward unit depicted on the Watertribe site - 
two bolts or tapping screws mount the bracket into the cut off end of the 
kayak. I think this was similar to my VCP rudder modification on my 
Nordkapp.

http://victoriakayaker.blogspot.com/2007/05/death-by-thousand-scratches-doug-lloyd.html

The pin type of rudder mount, like the Feathercraft rudder (Seaward does a 
pin-style too, as does Necky, Current Designs, etc.) needs a factory 
end-pour and/or rudder-specific area to place the pin rudder and the 
retaining washer on a horizontal plane. This last point being why I thought 
about the welded bracket that mounts on to the end of many strip kayaks to 
give them a outboard rudder mount for a pin-style rudder, independent of the 
need for modifications. I did pick up a nicer piece of hardware similar to 
the strip-kayak style mount, but nicer looking. I got mine from Ronstan:

http://www.des-boots-service.de/images/71.332.501.jpg

I'll modify it for kayak rudder use. I think it is for a tiller or some such 
thing. It's anodized aluminum, and not cheap. I may still need a bit of an 
end pour to toughen up the rear end of the kayak. The neat thing about an 
outboard rudder mount is I don't need to cut the end of the kayak off.

I had a close look at rudders at the Ladysmith Paddlefest today. The Kajak 
rudder looked like the best concept for a rudder, as it pulls straight back 
onto the rear deck without the need to flip it over-stern. It seemed a bit 
flimsy and didn't pull down all the way into the water straight vertically 
(not good if your going over kelp a lot). P&H had a neat concept in rudders 
too, with a rudder that dropped down when deployed, dropping down much lower 
than overstern rudders. It was expensive and didn't look well engineered, 
though it did make an ordinary length rudder into a deeper draft one. It 
also doesn't flip overstern, so would be left sticking straight up when not 
deployed.

The SmartTrack rudder looked good to, but wasn't deep draft and also stuck 
straight up vertically when not deployed.

The Feathercraft rudder looked like the technically most superb rudder, with 
a foil blade and fantastic CNC machining/smooth deployment.

But for overall ruggedness and mounting durability, I really liked the 
Seaward rudders. The newer Cosma kayak from Seaward had the neatest rudder 
deployment system I have ever seen, with an uphaul/downhaul line running 
beside the cockpit coming in a molded channel. If worked flawlessly compared 
to the Delta system which was similar in concept but stiff to use. The 
Seaward unit included an additional small pulley for the uphaul line (I 
think) on the rudder than smoothed things out.

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302700757&PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524442507567

Neat for rudder users, as one won't have to turn backwards to haul up the 
rudder when heading into shore. I may even add this system and a Seaward 
rudder to my Nordkapp build.I've busted two or so VCP plastic rudders over 
the years, and don't like them when sand gets in the mechanism. I will 
probably do a rudder, as well as a skeg, as does the Poin65 kayaks - best of 
both worlds, with some redundancy in case of failure of one or the other.

And, I did look at a none-ruddered kayak, BTW. Nigel's Silhouette by Seaward 
was exceptionally well made and looked perfect for a low-volume rough water 
machine. I fit into it with my new, post surgery weight, and was pleased 
with the controlled fit. I'll have to try it with my gear on later.

My daughters tried out sit-on-tops and fell in love with them. Plastic, it 
is.

Dubside was there with his black Feathercraft, wearing his custom black 
Kokatat drysuit. I asked him if he was modeling Freya Hoffmeister. And no, 
he didn't have a rudder. :-)

Doug Lloyd


>> Then, tape the rear end of the kayak with masking tape, before
>> sawing off the extreme end, to avoid chipping the gelcoat.
>>
>> Take care to get the surface vertical and at right angles to
>> the length of the boat. Looks prettier that way!
>
> Steve Isaac at Watertribe has done this kind of modification, cutting the
> narrow tip off before installing Seaward rudder:
> http://www.watertribe.org/Magazine/2003_1January/IsaacGottaHaveARudder.asp
>
>> And I would use heftier bolts/screws in the two upper holes!
>
> I'm confused. Seaward bracket needs only 2 holes, so one would be the 
> lower
> hole, and another one, respectively, "upper".
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