Re: [Paddlewise] Draw Strokes - Edging

I'm not an instructor and never took a class in the draw stroke so I had to
sit in the kayak and try it to see just what *I* do.

For a sculling drawstroke (which I use most of the time when I need a draw
stroke) I treat the stroke as a less urgent (or more relaxed) high brace. My
paddle shaft is as vertical as I can get it and the kayak is edged towards
the paddle slightly. If water does pile up onto the kayak it's not important
because I have a brace in the water and can simply adjust my scull to
account for it.

But for a simple draw stroke I edge the kayak slightly away from the paddle.
I think I do this because in the past I've "tripped" over the draw stroke
and managed to capsize. This was entertaining for everyone except me. By
edging slightly away from the draw I give myself a little extra time to get
that paddle out of the water before the kayak's hull goes over it.

FWIW,
Craig Jungers
Royal City, WA

On 8/8/07, Joseph Pylka <jpylka_at_earthlink.net> wrote:
>
>         I'd have to be answering this from the perspective of a canoeist
> (think of
> a canoe as a kayak without a top if that helps).
> I originally learned, and now teach, that the gunwale facing the paddle
> should be slightly elevated.  This lets the boat 'glide' more readily
> across the water surface.  If it were down, then water would pile up on it
> slowing the move, making me work more, and with a canoe if it's down too
> far I'll have water in the boat.
>         A general rule with such a boat in moving water is to 'lean
> downstream'.
> That's mostly to let the onrushing water slide under the boat rather than
> piling up on that side -- sometimes to the point where it gets the gunwale
> under water and flips the boat.  Works for ferrying and for peeling out.
> --Especially when I'm trying to avoid a rock;  if I hit, the edge stays
> above water and I just might get around the rock on the pillow.  The other
> way I could be in a difficult position.
>
> Joe P.
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