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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] The abandoned outposts of Newfoundland, CA
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 21:25:20 -0800
It's often just a chance remark that sets me off on a search for more
information and so it was today that I started off looking for more
information on the abandoned outports of Newfoundland.

First a short bit of history (very short). When Newfoundland became a
province of Canada in 1949 the new government took a long look at the more
than 1200 isolated villages nestled in the nooks and crannies of the rugged
coastline of "the Rock". Faced with the rising costs of providing services
to these tiny hamlets - most of which were accessible only by boat - the
provincial government and then, later, the federal government offered money
to the residents to be relocated to "growth centres" nearby. Entire
populations were moved including, in some cases, their houses. But many
outports remain as ghost towns now; dilapidated and rotting. Yet the mystery
of these places still attracts people and, especially, kayakers. People with
the means to get to the more isolated outports, some of which still have
houses with beds, furnishings, and old newspapers, in them.

The names are quaint and original; Ming's Bight, Indian Burying Place, Tilt
Cove and until the 1950s they were home to families who lived and worked -
worked the cod fishing grounds and the mines, mostly - their entire lives in
tiny communities with no electricity, running water, or schools. Children
were often sent off to school in fishing boats piloted by relatives and,
when the weather turned foul in the winter, stayed home to learn as best
they could.

This is a fast-growing sea kayaking adventure grounds and the capitol city,
St. John's, has numerous kayak touring companies which are specializing in
taking tourists out to see the abandoned outports. And in the summer some of
the outports are not entirely abandoned. Former residents, now retired, have
returned to live in their childhood homes when the weather is good. And
apparently the weather can be quite good in some parts of Newfoundland in
the summer. Paddlers can even find B&B's in some outports. Just don't expect
much from Indian Burying Ground.

For some outport residents the move was a godsend, for others it was a
tragedy. Many outport residents were so poor that they couldn't afford to
move any more than what they could carry to their new homes. Others moved
entire houses across the ice in winter or on barges in the summer. Whatever
they thought of the move, the stories are poignant and moving.

If you want more information google "newfoundland abandoned outports". The
web site www.ezc.ca has a wealth of information about some outports and
their history (although the photos didn't work for me).

What an adventure to take a modern version of an ancient design and travel
back in history.


Craig Jungers
Not much to do when the snow is calf-deep in...
Moses Lake, WA
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