[Paddlewise] Day #48, San O Sol O

6/10/08

As I sat in my car checking out the surf, I was glad it looked smaller than
predicted. It's amazing how a short walk from the car to the beach can
change your opinion. I don't much like the idea of surfing solo, but what
choice do I have since Duane got all respectable on me! The surf forecast
was 3 to 5 with occasional 6 footers--not really that big, but at the limit
for me at my skill level and all by my lonesome. And that's the way I found
the beach, with no other kayaks to be seen.

So the forecast was pretty accurate, but at least the waves were of a
crumbly nature, so they didn't look like they could do much damage. They
were pretty stacked up though, so getting out didn't look like it was going
to be fun. I took my time past the shore break to get used to the Delfin
again. The closer I got to the outside, the more I was fighting over the
rows of whitewater coming my way. I took a chance and got a nice ride on one
of the smaller waves which added to my confidence factor. I wasn't really
worried about riding the waves, it's still my lack of confidence in my
rolling and that long San O swim to shore. I finally got a break and made it
out through a lull and was glad to see someone in a Scrambler paddling out
to join me. At last, someone to drag my lifeless carcass to shore in the
event of an untimely demise.

I went for broke on a large wave and once making nice progress down the face
looked to the side for a shoulder to lean on, but just when I went to take
it, a board surfer showed up out of nowhere on his paddle out and I ended up
broaching on some big white water. I was glad to ride it out upright and now
the chase was afoot. I got some nice rides in the bigger waves with some
nice shoulders to ride, but spent a lot of time broached in the white water.
On one large one, stuck broached in the large white water, I was able to get
turned back around straight just in time to catch the same wave as it
reformed with a nice angled ride. What I learned on the day is my kayak
needs something that just happens to be spelled out in its name DelFIN.
Without a skeg, I can't keep the stern planted to keep a good angle on the
waves. Still I was having fun.

After each big ride I'd have to deal with the arduous journey back outside
through the breakers. I admit I was pretty tired. I'd say old age sucks, but
heck, ten years ago I would have died on the first paddle out! I'd gotten
some nice rides, so I wasn't so worried about capsizing, figuring I'd had my
share of fun on the day. On a nice ride in, I got knocked over trying to
exit the wash and rolled up with some help from the shallow sand bar under
me. Same thing on the way out, this time going over a big wave. I picked up
the next good size wave and rode it into shore. Right outside the shore
break the water is pretty deep, so I punched out a couple real rolls just to
prove I could.

I'm used to sandy beaches, but some of you might be more familiar with the
San O shore. I stood for a while enjoying the clacking of the large cobble
stones sounding like castanets as the powerful waves ebbed. I lived to tell
my tale and had a nice solo surf session. The only casualty on the day was
my video mast that broke when a wave upended my kayak on the shore upon
landing. I'm glad I'd removed the camera already!

Mark Sanders
www.sandmarks.net

#
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