Re: [Paddlewise] Re: Weird Shoals or Beating Dumpy

From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 07:24:22 -0700
Paul Montgomery wrote:

> I looked in one dictionary and did not find "clapotis". Another lists  
> it as a French word meaning "wash".

Wikipedia to the rescue:  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clapotis

"In hydrodynamics, the clapotis (from French: "lapping of water") is a 
non-breaking standing wave pattern, caused for example, by the reflection 
of a traveling surface wave train from a near vertical shoreline ..."

Worth noting is that Wiki claims "pure" clapotis does not involve any 
horizontal motion of water particles (read the entire citation to 
understand what they mean).  The crashing waves we body surfed out from the 
cliffs in Solana Beach would not, strictly, be clapotis by this definition.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Received on Tue Jun 17 2008 - 07:24:26 PDT

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