6/10/08 As I sat in my car checking out the surf, I was glad it looked smaller than predicted. It's amazing how a short walk from the car to the beach can change your opinion. I don't much like the idea of surfing solo, but what choice do I have since Duane got all respectable on me! The surf forecast was 3 to 5 with occasional 6 footers--not really that big, but at the limit for me at my skill level and all by my lonesome. And that's the way I found the beach, with no other kayaks to be seen. So the forecast was pretty accurate, but at least the waves were of a crumbly nature, so they didn't look like they could do much damage. They were pretty stacked up though, so getting out didn't look like it was going to be fun. I took my time past the shore break to get used to the Delfin again. The closer I got to the outside, the more I was fighting over the rows of whitewater coming my way. I took a chance and got a nice ride on one of the smaller waves which added to my confidence factor. I wasn't really worried about riding the waves, it's still my lack of confidence in my rolling and that long San O swim to shore. I finally got a break and made it out through a lull and was glad to see someone in a Scrambler paddling out to join me. At last, someone to drag my lifeless carcass to shore in the event of an untimely demise. I went for broke on a large wave and once making nice progress down the face looked to the side for a shoulder to lean on, but just when I went to take it, a board surfer showed up out of nowhere on his paddle out and I ended up broaching on some big white water. I was glad to ride it out upright and now the chase was afoot. I got some nice rides in the bigger waves with some nice shoulders to ride, but spent a lot of time broached in the white water. On one large one, stuck broached in the large white water, I was able to get turned back around straight just in time to catch the same wave as it reformed with a nice angled ride. What I learned on the day is my kayak needs something that just happens to be spelled out in its name DelFIN. Without a skeg, I can't keep the stern planted to keep a good angle on the waves. Still I was having fun. After each big ride I'd have to deal with the arduous journey back outside through the breakers. I admit I was pretty tired. I'd say old age sucks, but heck, ten years ago I would have died on the first paddle out! I'd gotten some nice rides, so I wasn't so worried about capsizing, figuring I'd had my share of fun on the day. On a nice ride in, I got knocked over trying to exit the wash and rolled up with some help from the shallow sand bar under me. Same thing on the way out, this time going over a big wave. I picked up the next good size wave and rode it into shore. Right outside the shore break the water is pretty deep, so I punched out a couple real rolls just to prove I could. I'm used to sandy beaches, but some of you might be more familiar with the San O shore. I stood for a while enjoying the clacking of the large cobble stones sounding like castanets as the powerful waves ebbed. I lived to tell my tale and had a nice solo surf session. The only casualty on the day was my video mast that broke when a wave upended my kayak on the shore upon landing. I'm glad I'd removed the camera already! Mark Sanders www.sandmarks.net # *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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