[Paddlewise] Surfiing is Fun!

7/9/09

I'd almost forgotten it's been so long! Duane had a rare Thursday morning
off, so I joined him at San O for a bit of surfing. I got there at 8am and
Duane was already on the water. The surf report said 2 to 3 ft with
occasional 4 footers, but the 4 footers seemed to be coming more than just
occasionally. I paddled out in my Delfin and hardly had time to say hi to
Duane before he headed out on a wave and I was soon to follow. On my first
ride, I found myself ensconced in some heavy white water at the end and
ended up upside down, but I finished with my first and only combat roll on
the day.

There were plenty of waves to be had, but there were quite a few stand up
paddlers to contend with. In the past, I've found the stand up folk a bit
squeamish to actually take a ride, so at one point I kinda stole a wave from
one lady, but Duane let me know I'd snaked her ride and I apologized to
maintain surfing harmony. I was impressed, I have to say, with the
improvement of the stand up crowd, because they were actually riding some
pretty nice waves, so I didn't mind letting them through.

Duane was paddling his newest purchase from my friend Ken, the Dick Wold
Surfing
Coffin, but funny, it didn't seem nearly the death boat that it seemed with
Ken! Back before he became respectable and got a real job, Duane and I spent
a few days together surfing at San O, so it was nice to have company again.
We shared quite a few waves and it seems there was only one spot were the
waves left us for a while for a little breather.

My first ride and roll, as well as my general rolling success with my
Tempest of late, seemed to have a positive effect on my surfing today.
Without the fear of a long San O swim for any minor mistake, I was able to
enjoy my rides a bit more and play a bit more on the waves. I still think
I'd do a bit better if I was to put a fin on the Delfin to allow a bit more
control on the waves, but towards the end of the day, I was carving some
nice rides on the green water. Early on, the sets were a bit more closed
out, but with the rising tide, the rides were probably some of the best I've
ever had. I hate to say that, because I long ago realize that my last
surfing session always ends up seeming the best I've ever had!!! Still, the
longer length of the Delfin, it being 10' 5", allowed me to catch a few
waves that Duane missed in his smaller Wold boat.

The crowd thinned out a bit and Duane and I reveled in having just about any
wave we wanted to ourselves. The day had started out a bit overcast, but had
become sunny and beautiful. Although the waves weren't the biggest I've
found at San O, they had a nice form and it was nice not to have to fight
the big sets on the way back out. Our paddles back out to the waves let us
know how far we were surfing on our rides.

With rides aplenty, I was getting a bit tuckered out and Duane had to head
to work, so we each found a great wave to ride to shore. As is my wont, I
wet exited before the shore, as the Delfin is always a tight sqeeze for me
on the way in as well as out and I've had enough trouble in the San O shore
break, small as it may be, to want to try a dry landing. Today there was the
added pleasure of wading through a three foot deep muck of sea weed that was
being ground up in the rocks of the shore break. On shore there were 3 foot
mounds of ground up kelp collection on the sand and competing with water
making its way to shore.

With boats ready to head home, Duane and I took some time to enjoy the beach
scene. We being both health males, I don't think I need to describe some of
the more enjoyable sights. Before we head out, we were treated to the sight
of a four man outrigger that had launched through the waves. They headed out
past the break, turned around and rode a nice sized wave back in. Looked
like a lot of fun, might have to expand my horizons a bit!

Mark Sanders

#
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