Narrower the paddle the higher the flutter rate and the less likely you will know where you paddle blade will be at any given time. It is sort of a falling leaf effect. Some blades of the same width flutter less radically than others and that is due to the blade shape and dihedral on the power face. Also a bigger loom will give the paddler a little better control of the flutter. I have huge hands and I do just fine with the narrow shafts (as even the thin walled graphite shafts on the standard size loom tend to be. the trick is using the paddle in such a way you hardly have to grip it but rather just push with the ball of your open hand and pull with your hooked fingers. This will cure wrist problems too since you won't be bending your wrist to follow the shaft angle change that happens during the stroke. The cure for flutter (and too tight a grip with any paddle) is to use the paddle with a wing like stroke. With a GP paddle angle the top of the blade forward so it dives down some as it enters the water and you are pulling on it and then reverses itself and climbs out ot the water toward the end of the stroke (at the first half of a flutter as it reaches its deepest point). Glide down, a single flutter at the stopping point, and glide back up and out. As long as you get the paddle on a glide path to the side (from the point of view of the paddle) as you are pulling it shouldn't flutter. With a vertical wing paddle like stroke using a Euro blade you get a lot of the benefits of the wing stroke including no flutter (without having that god awful splashy water throwing wing blade that is poor at stern draws, low braces, duffeks, bow draws, and skulling support strokes). Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 08:10:20 -0700 Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Paddle length From: crjungers_at_gmail.com To: pdh_at_mmcl.co.nz CC: marinerkayaks_at_msn.com; paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net On Fri, Jul 17, 2009 at 7:48 AM, Paul Hayward <pdh_at_mmcl.co.nz> wrote: My first paddle was 2300mm (96.1") and when I went longer I added 100mm to each end - to give 2500 (98.4"). There was nothing magic (or engineered) about the 100mm, I just decided to make it 'significantly' longer and then trim it back until I found a 'sweet spot.' I've never trimmed it back and all my subsequent paddles (lighter ones, stronger ones, hollow ones, splits - I've played around some) have remained at that length. Yikes!!! That is one long paddle. But it's interesting that I have an old book about the arctic and there is one photo taken (I believe) in eastern Canada with several Inuit kayaks in a line towing a whale and using VERY long paddles. The photo was taken from a ridge above and to the side of the paddlers and the paddles are clearly GPs and the length is striking. So perhaps you have rediscovered something here. So do I understand that you folks also struggled with flutter issues? If I had a spare $400 I'd buy one of the graphite GPs or drive to California and beg Strosaker to let me try one of his graphite blades. I keep going back to his web page about the construction and to Chuck Holst's pages about the wooden GPs and trying to figure out where I went wrong (with the flutter). I have one more almost perfect cedar 2x4 as a blank for a new paddle. It's 8' long so I could experiment with something longer. Craig Jungers Moses Lake, WA www.nwkayaking.net *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Fri Jul 17 2009 - 13:18:15 PDT
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:31:37 PDT