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From: Mike Euritt <mike.euritt_at_gmail.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Fri, 17 Jul 2009 12:22:46 -0700
a variation on the paddle theme we have.
When it comes to paddle feathering, from the time I had my first intro
class, I have been handed feathered paddles. Supposedly easier into a head
wind, but someone noted a feathered paddle can catch the wind when the wind
is on the beam where an unfeathered will not. I had a gust catch
me unexpectedly once that felt like the paddle was about to be ripped away
from my loose grip.

As I've developed my skills, I've used Brent Reitz Forward Stroke video. If
you have seen the  video, he has an "Aha!" moment when he was struggling
with tendinitis, which was caused by his bending his wrist backwards.

My last paddle I was working on forward stroke technique when I had that
same discovery, my right wrist bends back for the catch on the left. I tried
a couple of things but either the right blade or left didn't catch squarely
w/o my wrist bending. The only way I could not bend my wrist was to take the
feathering out of the paddle. I intend to do a few hours worth of paddling,
and bracing practice to see how it feels.

Does anyone have any thoughts, am I loosing some benefit, or gaining some
other? It has always struck me as odd that the GP's are not feathered and
the storm paddle was a better solution to strong winds than feathering. I
think I see a GP in my future.

Mike
San Rafael, CA
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From: Darryl Johnson <Darryl.Johnson_at_sympatico.ca>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 09:21:47 -0400
Mike Euritt wrote:
> a variation on the paddle theme we have.
> When it comes to paddle feathering, from the time I had my first intro
> class, I have been handed feathered paddles. Supposedly easier into a head
> wind, but someone noted a feathered paddle can catch the wind when the wind
> is on the beam where an unfeathered will not. I had a gust catch
> me unexpectedly once that felt like the paddle was about to be ripped away
> from my loose grip.
> 
> As I've developed my skills, I've used Brent Reitz Forward Stroke video. If
> you have seen the  video, he has an "Aha!" moment when he was struggling
> with tendinitis, which was caused by his bending his wrist backwards.
> 
> My last paddle I was working on forward stroke technique when I had that
> same discovery, my right wrist bends back for the catch on the left. I tried
> a couple of things but either the right blade or left didn't catch squarely
> w/o my wrist bending. The only way I could not bend my wrist was to take the
> feathering out of the paddle. I intend to do a few hours worth of paddling,
> and bracing practice to see how it feels.
> 
> Does anyone have any thoughts, am I loosing some benefit, or gaining some
> other? It has always struck me as odd that the GP's are not feathered and
> the storm paddle was a better solution to strong winds than feathering. I
> think I see a GP in my future.
> 
> Mike
> San Rafael, CA

I have always paddled unfeathered. It just seems so much easier on the 
wrists -- possibly the result of my doing the 'feathered' thing all 
wrong when I tried it.

I have also moved to a bent shaft paddle -- something I find also to 
be easier on the wrists -- and the hand positions on the paddle 
encourage (I think) an unfeathered approach.

I tried a Greenland paddle once. There's a certain amount of truth in 
the "Old dog, new tricks" saying. I found that it drove me nuts trying 
to manage the "slide the hands" trick as I went from a stroke on one 
side to the other. Maybe a longer paddle where I didn't need to 
constantly move my hands would have been better.

For me, the unfeathered paddle has at least two advantages. The first 
being that it's very difficult to put the paddle together in the wrong 
feathered angle (leading to a "whoopsie" moment when the blade slices 
through the water instead of catching and pushing water). The second 
that it is easier my *my* wrists.

I suspect that it might also be easier for people learning to roll, 
since the two ends of the paddle are aligned and there is no mental 
gymnastics involved in orienting the far end of the paddle to skim 
along the surface. However, since I cannot roll, and since my learning 
attempts have been few and far between, this last point is only a 
supposition.

-- 
   Darryl
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From: Bradford R. Crain <crainb_at_pdx.edu>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:53:31 -0700
> Mike Euritt wrote:
>> a variation on the paddle theme we have.
>> When it comes to paddle feathering, from the time I had my first intro
>> class, I have been handed feathered paddles. Supposedly easier into a head
>> wind, but someone noted a feathered paddle can catch the wind when the wind
>> is on the beam where an unfeathered will not. I had a gust catch
>> me unexpectedly once that felt like the paddle was about to be ripped away
>> from my loose grip.


> In response, Darryl Johnson wrote:
> I have always paddled unfeathered. It just seems so much easier on  
> the wrists -- possibly the result of my doing the 'feathered' thing  
> all wrong when I tried it.
>
> I have also moved to a bent shaft paddle -- something I find also to  
> be easier on the wrists -- and the hand positions on the paddle  
> encourage (I think) an unfeathered approach.
>
> I tried a Greenland paddle once. There's a certain amount of truth  
> in the "Old dog, new tricks" saying. I found that it drove me nuts  
> trying to manage the "slide the hands" trick as I went from a stroke  
> on one side to the other. Maybe a longer paddle where I didn't need  
> to constantly move my hands would have been better.
>
> For me, the unfeathered paddle has at least two advantages. The  
> first being that it's very difficult to put the paddle together in  
> the wrong feathered angle (leading to a "whoopsie" moment when the  
> blade slices through the water instead of catching and pushing  
> water). The second that it is easier my *my* wrists.

   In response, Brad Crain writes:
    I have always paddled unfeathered. My paddle is a German racing paddle
    that I use to go slow. The German's make good stuff, like the Shamwow.
    Never had any pain in wrists or shoulders over a 20 year period. My
    biggest problem has been that I can't read a chart worth %$_at_#.
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From: <rcgibbert_at_aol.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 18:49:44 -0400
-----Original Message-----
From: Bradford R. Crain <crainb_at_pdx.edu>
To: Darryl.Johnson_at_sympatico.ca
Cc: Paddlewise Paddlewise <paddlewise_at_paddlewise.net>
Sent: Mon, Jul 20, 2009 8:53 am
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?


MyB biggest problem has been that I can't read a chart worth %$_at_#.B 

Brad,

Nigel Calder wrote a great book called How to Read a Nautical Chart. It 
also includes Chart One. Well worth the 20 bucks you would pay at a 
marine store.

Cheers,

Rob G
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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 08:23:28 -0700
On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 6:21 AM, Darryl Johnson <Darryl.Johnson_at_sympatico.ca
> wrote:

>
> I tried a Greenland paddle once. There's a certain amount of truth in the
> "Old dog, new tricks" saying. I found that it drove me nuts trying to manage
> the "slide the hands" trick as I went from a stroke on one side to the
> other. Maybe a longer paddle where I didn't need to constantly move my hands
> would have been better.


Darryl... the "sliding hands" maneuver on a GP is for a storm paddle which
is a very short paddle. It's very short to reduce windage in a storm. The
short length requires the paddler to move his (or her) hands to be able to
extend it out from the side of the kayak to reach the water on each side. A
"normal" GP doesn't require you to move your hands at all. In fact, you can
index your hands on the shoulder between the loom and the paddle face and
just paddle that way all day long. You should try a GP again only this time
use one that is full size.

And I totally reject the "old dog,new tricks" saying. I'm less than 4 years
away from 70 and still addicted to learning. There is always something new
to learn.


> For me, the unfeathered paddle has at least two advantages. The first being
> that it's very difficult to put the paddle together in the wrong feathered
> angle (leading to a "whoopsie" moment when the blade slices through the
> water instead of catching and pushing water). The second that it is easier
> my *my* wrists.


If it's easier on you then it's easier and 'nuff said. I solved the
feathered/unfeathered issue by simply having a two-piece paddle so I can
select. The only "whoopsie" moment I've had is when a gust of wind caught my
upwind feathered paddle and tried to capsize me... I just changed it to
unfeathered. (Of course, I've just purchased a one-piece feathered Lightning
paddle... but I can always shift to a spare.)


> I suspect that it might also be easier for people learning to roll, since
> the two ends of the paddle are aligned and there is no mental gymnastics
> involved in orienting the far end of the paddle to skim along the surface.
> However, since I cannot roll, and since my learning attempts have been few
> and far between, this last point is only a supposition.
>

Most of the time you would have to align the paddle face since an accidental
capsize generally means that you lose the grip on the paddle for an
instant... or you "could" lose it and so the alignment step is mostly
automatic. However, w/w paddlers who capsize a lot (most of them capsize a
lot) just roll up with little pause between the capsize and the roll up.
Most of the roll is in the hips (or knees) not the paddle, anyway.

Learning to roll is a lot more fun in 85F water than it is in places like
Puget Sound (55F water). And if you wear a face mask you can get a much
clearer idea of what you're doing. Age does play a part in rolling I've
found... with flexibility issues.

Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
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From: MATT MARINER BROZE <marinerkayaks_at_msn.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 00:32:35 -0700
 All of the strokes and braces are the most powerful when you are pulling one
arm back as though your forearm is a rope tied to the paddle by your fingers
and your pushing hand pushes directly in line with your forearm and wrist. The
paddle shaft, your wrist and your elbow should all be in a straight line with
your elbow leading (when pulling) or pushing directly behind your hand much
like making a straight punch. Any bend or angle at the wrist (more commonly
seen with the pushing arm) will weaken a strokes power and effectiveness.
Think of it as giving your strokes and braces an added punch. Worse, bending
your wrist either back or side to side can lead to repetitive stress injuries.
To minimize the stress on your wrists do not bend the wrist back to "control"
a feathered paddle (as is almost universally taught) and also hold the paddle
with as loose a grip as you can. With any feather angle your wrists should
also not bend side to side to follow the changing shaft angle throughout the
stroke. In other words, the shaft should pivot in your hand and not bend your
wrist as it pivots. This is important whether you paddle feathered or
unfeathered. With any feather angle control the blade with the hand nearest
the water and relax the upper hand so the paddle can freely rotate in the hand
that is pushing. This way you dont bend your wrist when paddling feathered
and you do not have to lift your elbow out like a boxers hook if you paddle
unfeathered (to take out the 45 degree rotation you put on the blade by
lifting the upper hand from your elbow). With any feather it is more efficient
to push with your elbow starting at your side and the key to doing this is LOW
HAND control. Tip: if you hold the paddle loosely between strokes the rotating
moment you put on it while lifting can be used to spin it a little further
into position without needing to bend your wrist at all. A good paddle will
also make this adjustment to the angle if necessary as the blade enters the
water. If you have to physically immobilize your wrists with braces or tape
until you learn to paddle without bending them, do it. They will thank you for
it later.



The above was cut and pasted from our Paddling manual (about 1/3 of the way
into it). The tip in italics is for feathered paddlers.



Mike, my advice is to stick with feathered and learn to paddle without bending
your wrists. It took a few hours for me to convert to that after having bent
my wrist (as I was taught) for years in whitewater paddling. As soon as I took
up long days in a sea kayak my left wrist (I paddle left feather) started
killing me. I needed to do something quick or abort a two week trip. With so
many years of WW bracing honed into me unfeathered was not a good option. I
developed the hold the paddle lightly and dont' push or pull with bent wrist
style insead and it became second nature in a day. I never had wrist problems
from paddling again and I once paddled over 70 miles in a 23 hour period.
Sticking with feathered, you won't confuse your bracing reactions. Going into
strong headwinds will be much easier. The side wind argument is bogus. Once
you know that your paddle can be lifted by extreme wind you are careful not to
expose the blade to the wind and use a lower stroke in those condition. If
your paddle is caught by the wind simply twist it to spill the wind. If the
wind catch is strong enough it risks capsizing you, simply let go of the upper
hand and let the upper blade blow over into the water while hanging on to it
with the downwind hand. Next quickly bring the paddle  back accross your boat
straight into the wind. Your paddle will now be upside down (if it is
asymetrical) but you can still paddle and brace with it just fine and can
strighten it back out when you get the break to do so. The time you might
forget that you need to keep your paddle low for the strong side wind is if
something happens and you suddenly need to do a brace. During a high brace the
feathered paddle's upper blade now slices through the wind but the unfeathered
paddle's upper blade is suddenly flat to the wind and too high to avoid being
caught by it. Oops!



Tha argument (not mentioned here yet), that you get the upwind loss back when
you paddle downwind with an unfeathered paddle also has no merit. Since the
upper paddle blade is moving forward at about 2.5 times as fast as the kayak
is moving (depending some on the paddle's length). A kayak doing 4 knots into
a ten knot wind has a 20 knot relative wind on the paddle blade, Doubling the
wind speed and creating four times the drag. Turn around and paddle downwind
and you get the wind and the paddle going the same speed in the same direction
for zero net gain. Feather your paddle and don't bend your wrist by using low
hand control (rather than right or left hand control).
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From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 2009 08:32:07 -0700
On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 12:32 AM, MATT MARINER BROZE
<marinerkayaks_at_msn.com>wrote:

> Feather your paddle and don't bend your wrist by using low
> hand control (rather than right or left hand control).
>

I hope you're going to Pt. Townsend. You are going to have to sit me down
and explain this. :)


Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
www.nwkayaking.net
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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Fri, 31 Jul 2009 06:18:17 -0700
Craig Jungers wrote:
> On Tue, Jul 21, 2009 at 12:32 AM, MATT MARINER BROZE

>> Feather your paddle and don't bend your wrist by using low
>> hand control (rather than right or left hand control).

> I hope you're going to Pt. Townsend. You are going to have to sit me down
> and explain this. :)

Pretty simple, actually:  clasp the upper shaft only with your encircled 
thumb and forefinger; the other hand automatically becomes the control 
hand.  Been doing this for years to avoid tendinitis ... and I paddle 
UNfeathered!

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: rebyl_kayak <rebyl_kayak_at_energysustained.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] Feathered or not?
Date: Sun, 26 Jul 2009 18:16:16 +1000
Mike wrote:
>When it comes to paddle feathering, from the time I had my first intro
>class, I have been handed feathered paddles. Supposedly easier into a head
>wind, but someone noted a feathered paddle can catch the wind when the wind
>is on the beam where an unfeathered will not.

Brad wrote:
> I tried a Greenland paddle once. There's a certain amount of truth
> in the "Old dog, new tricks"

G'day Brad and Mike,

Re old dogs and new tricks there may be a converse aspect to the adage. I'm
getting on a bit and suspect that my muscle memory isn't as great as it once
was. After not practising a roll or other manoevre for a few months it becomes
necessary to relearn the technique using logic until the muscles are
retrained. Its always  much easier to relearn than to learn from scratch
though. This can be a real advantage sometimes in that not only do I unlearn
good habits but bad ones as well.

Some years ago I took advantage of this 'relearning' process, after a 1 year
break from paddling, to take some forward stroke instruction using a euro
paddle with a smart shaft and asked the instructor to not only correct my
stroke but in the process to determine a paddle length and feather that would
maximise the stroke efficiency and minimise or reduce to zero any wrist
rotation. It was a classically vertical racing stroke, which I use in moderate
seas because it saves me energy. For me the best length for the paddle was 212
cm. I had expected that the best feather angle would turn out to be zero but
for me it was about 30 degreees. We discussed this at length and came to the
conclusion that the innate asymmetry and handedness in a body and in body
movement required some degree of feather if wrist rotation was to be minimised
and this of course would vary from person to person.

Another point that came from my instructors experience was that while an ideal
paddling physique with no stiff joints or other idiosyncrasies might favour
the classical racing stroke for speed or minimum energy paddling; there were
nevertheless many people who through custom or age and stiff joints, or a
propensity for upper body rather than abdominal strength, would be better off
with a quite different paddling style.

Of course none of this touches on the back problems that can come with an
inappropriate paddle stroke. I'm not sure what causes such problems, touch
wood I don't suffer from them; but suspect a combination of poor technique
when lifting boats and a torso rotation that focuses only on the upper body
with out involving the whole torso down to the buttocks. Years ago I asked the
question on Paddlewise what contribution the legs made when moving them as
part of a paddle stroke, Newtons law of action and reaction made it difficult
for me to undestand how leg movement helped. I'm now convinced that the sole
contribution of leg movement is to allow upper and lower torso to rotate in
better unison.

A year or two later we had an excellent club seminar in which a New Zealander
(and I think he's on Paddlewise but I've forgotten his name - apologies)
caused a great deal of interest with a paddle stroke instruction that included
not only adjusting paddle length and feather but also changing the blades. It
was an eye opener to the whole club. I'd be interested to hear if others have
had similar or contrary experiences.

All the best, PeterO
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