Re: [Paddlewise] Rogue Waves

From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2009 17:56:27 -0700
Bradford R. Crain wrote:
> I don't know if they qualify as a "rogue wave", but Oregon experiences 
> so-called "sneaker waves" on a fairly regular basis. These are waves 
> that appear without warning along the beaches and sweep unsuspecting 
> tourists and beachcomers into the ocean, where moments before they were 
> "safely" walking on dry sand. I've never actually seen one, but they 
> make the news every year, sometimes leading to fatalities. Don't know of
>  any scientific or statistical studies. One particular wave swept the 
> parking lot at the Barview Jetty at Garibaldi and trapped an elderly 
> woman under a parked car in 1-2 feet of water. She was rescued.

Brad, sneaker waves are caused by constructive interference of two wave
trains from different sources.  The direction (and distance) of travel
being different, now and then a crest from one source will combine with the
crest from the other source in the formative stage of becoming surf.  When
this larger-than-normal combination surges up on the beach (or jetty), it
will often be 1.5 times the height of the "average" wave from either
source.  And, it will run up a lot higher than the average breakers.

An experienced and astute observer of the surf zone can pick these out
fairly easily as they form.  But, folks who are playing near the normal
swash zone of "average" waves are never looking far enough out to notice
the formation of sneaker waves.  Sadly, the victims are often children
playing in the swash zone ... now and then crushed by the movement of large
logs high above the usual extent of swash.

There is a good description of these in Willard Bascom's classic book (long
out of print), "Waves and Beaches."

As to "rogue waves," there was a good article on them in one of the popular
  "science" periodicals recently.  Wikipedia has a good summary of what is
know of these, and describes the likely sources:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rogue_wave  I suspect the "non linear"
hypothesis is the culprit.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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Received on Sat Aug 29 2009 - 17:56:35 PDT

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