PaddleWise by thread

From: silidriel <silidriel_at_prodigy.net.mx>
subject: [Paddlewise] Caņon del Sumidero, Chiapas
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 17:04:15 -0600
Hi kayakers,



Windows opened in space, time and climate for the realization of a fantastic
dream in Southeast Mexico. I just imagine being one of Ricardo Montalban and
Tatoos customers in Fantasy Island, with similar conditions on a non
luxurious or expensive place but maybe as fancy.



It started on Saturday 14, under sunshine and the right temperature with no
clouds and just the right amount of wind to keep you fresh. Curiously the
days before there were the worst rains and serious floods in the area. Also,
as we were ending our trip a new cold front was showing in. Very conscious
of travelers comfort cautiously waited until we were through.



The time was good since we had a long weekend due to the Revolution
Celebration Day on Monday (now we have something to be thankful of the
Revolution). I had just arrived from my trip to Corpus Christy Paddlefest
and felt kind of guilty, with two days to say hello and change clothes, and
wished I had not committed myself, but the feeling didnt last long. As soon
as I stepped in Chiapa de Corso, the launching town, all remorse seemed
ridiculous.



If you want to skip the whole story, you can see a video and pictures at the
next link.

http://community.webshots.com/user/cayucochief



The last window was the Mountain itself. If you figure yourself in a flat
plateau all around and only a regular mountain up north, you can seldom
imagine that it is split in two by a canyon 1,000 mts (3,000 feet) deep, 25
miles long, where lots of history has been written. First we start with the
Spaniards trying unsuccessfully to conquer the Chiapa Indians in 1520, and
when almost got them, they decided to jump, all of them, with wives and
children from the highest point to the canyon, before having to surrender,
so the legend says. Then, the town is famous for building the best marimbas
in the World and his Master musician and constructor Seferino Nandayapa
happily lives there. Finally, the Canyon was never conquered by humans, in
spite of many well equipped international expeditions, and only one group
did it. They were called Los Paquelos Rojos, from the  close by town, and
after their achievement, the Dam was built and the water level rose to reach
flat waters, to leave them as the only successful expeditionary in the
history of the Canyon. Now a days 10,000 tourists wearing PFD travel every
weekend packed in 30 passenger fast boats, looking astonished. (I dont know
if by the view or by the speed).



On Saturday morning 13 kayakers in 12 singles and one double, one kayak
converted into canoe paddled on the knees and three on an inflatable motor
boat started from the Caguare Pier down river, watching the canyon walls
grow and grow, with all kinds of tropical trees, and birds like eagles,
egrets, parrots, tucan, guacamayas, some alligators resting on the sand and
one or two monkeys.



The trip lasted 5 hours of peaceful paddling, picture taking, adventures
telling, wake riding (not to good since boats speed was so large that waves
were mostly crossed to the path), some swimming and some rafting to eat. No
beaches after the first mile, only vertical rock walls with trees growing on
them. We paddled and drifted and time passed so quickly in such a breath
taking place.



When walls started to fall, the river opened on both sides, with thick
forest;  a clear water stream on the left end and a  palapa and some kind of
buildings to the right. That was our destination. On the pier we were
expected,  and our fully loaded kayaks were taken up to the near palapa
where we unloaded and prepared to enter into the second dream. The cement
walkway immersed in the tropical jungle, took us to a hanging bridge, a one
story building that was a small museum with local costumes, videos,
explanations of the geological formation fo the canyon, tribal traditions,
and all related to those etnias, and then a hanging strings door to a patio
with guacamayas and tucans with all colored feathers, and then another patio
with a bar, a swimming pool and some flat areas for camping.  Going on other
walkways one could reach the leopard, panther, monkey, alligator and snake
cages,  and further up the climbimg and rappel wall and finally the wire
sliding tower (we call tirolesa). Going down on two stages of the sliding
wire, one could go back to the pool, bar  and camp.



Close by there was a restaurant with sufficient and variable food, with a
good size amphitheater below ready for good theater and folkloric dance
presentations, being the backstage the river and canyon walls. Servants,
guests, sliding cable guides, zoo maintenance crews, all were very kind,
serviceable and efficient, making life very easy for us in that little
paradise. They all live in the town of Tuxtla Gutierrez and are taken to the
place by boat since there is no road to that Shangri-La camp called AMIKZU.



Needless to say we spent a full day sliding down the cable, climbing,
paddling to the other side of the channel to go up  the water stream,
enjoying the river water and the swimming pool and bar, with very friendly
and happy company. We wondered watching the zoo, the birds, the museum,
always ready for the next feeding session, since food was so good.





Nothing lasts for ever, and Monday morning we had to say goodbye and paddle
along the opening caynon to the dam wall and the side pier and restaurant
where the cars were waiting for us. Climate started to deteriorate as we
were approaching the end.



We said goodbye with some kayak and canoe rolls, and eating some fresh
garlic fried Tilapias with cold and refreshing beer.



Thanks to the organizers and to the excellent companions we had a dream
trip. If anybody is interested here there are some links to the place.



http://twitter.com/amikuu

http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Archivo:Canon_el_Sumidero.jpg



Best Regards,



Rafael Mier

www.mayanseas.com
***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed
here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire
responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author.
Submissions:     PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net
Subscriptions:   PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net
Website:         http://www.paddlewise.net/
***************************************************************************

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:52 PDT