Re: [Paddlewise] Alaska & BC planning

From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2009 08:50:09 -0800
Wow, Paul.... sounds like you have a great opportunity. Even 28 days will go
fast. Wish I had that much time available away from the Internet. Your
folding K2 will give you a versatility that most of us could only wish for.

Some people like to plan every detail of their trip and others lprefer to
"wing it". I fall in the middle. I like a general plan but with plenty of
latitude to divert to another plan if it is more appealing. A rental car
gives you the versatility to take advantage of side trips but it also can
make you lose whatever focus you might have had.

My wife would like to take a "cruise ship" to Alaska. Now, as a retired
merchant marine officer my motto has been "I'll get on a ship again when
they pay me $100k a year to do it!" My wife, for some reason, is not
supportive.

However a ferry is different. I love to ride ferries. So I'd start with an
Alaskan Ferry System trip north into SE Alaska (sans car). These ferries
make 20kts day and night and can cover that water pretty quickly. Not only
that but there is a pretty good chance I'll run into some old buddies who
are working for the AK ferry system. My own preference would be to not take
a stateroom and, instead, spend as much time as I could in the observation
area scoping out the potential paddling territory with binoculars. This also
serves to keep the costs down. Plus I'm not into the idea of being
"pampered" on a cruise ship.

Skagway is an interesting community but its paddling opportunities don't
appeal to me very much. I think I would rather disembark at Sitka and
camp/kayak around there for a few days. Then I would turn around and head
right back south, perhaps to Prince Rupert where the AK ferries and the BC
ferries intersect. This gives a paddler the chance to shift to one of the BC
ferries to get a better feel for the smaller communities and tighter water.
Prince Rupert is a perfect spot to regroup and decide where you want to go
next; partly because of the intersection of the two ferry systems but also
because it's one of the best spots to get access out to Haida Gwai (the
official name for the Queen Charlotte Islands).

One of the BC ferries will give a paddler the option to get off - and into
your kayak/canoe - at almost any spot on the route and arrange to be picked
up the same way at a prearranged place/date later. No dock required.

A BC ferry from Prince Rupert will get you to Port McNeill on Vancouver
Island. Word is that there is a terrific little kayak "resort" in the
Broughtens (Simoom Bay) that will pick you up in their boat at Port McNeill
(on Vancouver Island) and take you out. They are well situated and rustic
with a floating cabin (as well as one on land). Food service, too. Nothing
fancy. I like the idea of having my kayak on the deck outside my floating
cabin. www.paddlersinn.ca for more info. I think I'd make this my first
priority after the ferry tour. I have not stayed at Paddler's Inn but
several BC paddlers have had nothing but good to report. If you don't like
it then you are still in prime paddling territory.

If you do decide to rent a car and drive north (not a terrible idea, either)
you might consider going to Prince Rupert, BC (only about 800km instead of
going all the way to Skagway. Although, frankly, a kayak trip on the Yukon
River would be a nice conversation point when you get back to NZ. I have not
been farther north by road in Canada than the the Bowron Lakes (a worthwhile
side trip, by the way) but I expect to tow the Muthah Ship up to Prince
Rupert this summer (2010) for a trip to Haida Gwai.

Nice to sit here in my Spongebob jammies with Google Earth on my laptop and
think of trips to come. This afternoon there will be ice skating at the
local municipal rink. This morning I'll be working (outside at freezing
temps standing in the snow) to complete my kayak rack for a trip to S.
California towing the Princess for Chrismas in the sun. Doheny Beach (Dana
Point, CA) is supposed to be in the 70s this weekend!!! Sue and I can be
there in 24 hours driving 3 hours on and 3 hours off (the watch schedule we
used when cruising on our 32-foot sailboat back in the 1980s).

I'm sure you'll have a great time, Paul. If you get a chance to come through
here be sure and let me know.


Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
www.nwkayaking.net
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Received on Thu Dec 17 2009 - 08:50:18 PST

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