Re: [Paddlewise] Wing paddle and hull speed was (Re: Who Took Shaun White Sea Kayaking?)

On Fri, Feb 19, 2010 at 8:36 PM, MATT MARINER BROZE
<marinerkayaks_at_msn.com>wrote:

>
> Using the Greenland paddle with the wing stroke might take care of the
> flutter. The other option is to use the greenland paddle with the top edge
> forward so it dives when you pull on it (in a low angle stroke) and then
> adjust the angle a bit so it climbs back to the surface for the exit. Having
> it slice sideways through the water is likely to keep it stable and the only
> flutter will be the one to reverse direction and bring it back to the
> surface. That's the theory anyhow.
>

I have tried both of these techniques with some improvement but, frankly,
the Lightning is just a better paddle than my Greenland paddle is. At least
in my hands. I'm going to give it a better try this season and, if
necessary, make another one.


> The Mariner II might be the best of the rest of your kayaks (or the
> outright best of your kayaks for your test) but something like a Seda Glider
> or CD Expedition has both a higher hull speed and more frictional drag, that
> might prevent you from pushing it at hull speed even during a much shorter
> sprint paddle (at least until you get into top shape).
>

I only have the M-II, an Express, the F-1 and the Telkwa available here. My
daughter has one of the original Solanders but I can barely squeeze into
that (my wife's Solander had a larger cockpit). I think the M-II is the
obvious choice.


> Run the ests on the same no wind day. As the lake warms up you will get
> faster. A ten degree F. higher temperature reduces drag about 2.5% because
> the warmer water is less viscous. best to make shorter runs on a fixed
> course on the same no wind day to limit the variables that might effect the
> results. You need to push all out or keep constant track of your heart rate
> to assure you are putting equal energy into each run. Stay out of any water
> less than 6 or 7 feet deep or wave drag on the bottom may affect your
> results (essentially reducing the hull speed of the kayak as the waves you
> make feel the bottom and slow down, creating the very hull speed problem we
> are trying to avoid).
>

My plan was to do this over a week choosing only no-wind mornings (very
common here in the summer). Once we get into June our weather is pretty
stable. Fortunately I know the area well from years of paddling back and
forth so I can stay away from shallow depths. If I did the 2.3sm tests on
the same day I'd have fatigue issues muddying up the results. But a short
course would be different. So I might set up two different tests: one using
the long course over a week and the other using a short course over one or
two mornings.

>
> You pretty much identified the downsides to the wing paddle. Add that it
> only does one forward stroke well (and only then if you are pulling hard)
> and that in a stern draw it tends to want to dive under the boat unless you
> cock your wrist back to an extreme angle and I think you will have most of
> the negatives covered. The later is especially annoying using a rudderless
> kayak.
>
> As Kirk said, one option is to cheat and use a ruddered kayak. I only have
one of those (the Telkwa) but this issue is one reason I explored the idea
of putting a rudder on the M-II (gasp!). Especially for the Deception Pass
Dash where working the eddies against the current requires more precise
directional control than a wing would give me but the long run with the
current on another leg would make a wing a good idea (if the wing paddle
really does move the kayak forward more efficiently).

For the rest of the Paddlewisers who might be following this, Matt and I
have been discussing this back-channel for a couple of weeks.


Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
www.nwkayaking.net
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