Re: [Paddlewise] LED Torch (Flashlight) suggestions

From: Craig Jungers <crjungers_at_gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 09:13:51 -0700
On Sun, Jun 6, 2010 at 9:29 PM, John Kirk-Anderson <jka_at_netaccess.co.nz>wrote:

>
> What I need is; LED, WaterPROOF, AA battery powered, small enough to fit in
> pocket, not so expensive I'll have to sell a kayak.
>

Most of us feel that the RPG we carry to ward off  jet ski attacks will work
in a pinch for almost any attack by a powered vessel.  :)

>
> I had looked at headtorches, but most are not as waterproof as I want, so
> I'm looking more at diving lights.
>
> Is a diving light overkill for this application? More importantly, will a
diving light - that is, a light made to be used underwater by divers - work
at all?  In the "old days" some diver's lights needed to be kept under water
for cooling purposes.

You probably don't need your light to be waterPROOF but just water resistant
(unless you plan to use it for diving. For a deck light on my kayak I look
for water resistant first, then size, then brightness. After those are
determined (usually by comparing the units) I might go for battery
commonality (no specialty batteries... stick with "D", "AA" or "AAA"),
number of LEDs, availability of color filters, etc.

Water Resistance: Like our cameras, the deck light only need to survive a
couple of minutes in water only a few feet deep.

Size: Depending upon where we live, some of us paddle with gloves and some
never have a need to paddle with gloves. If you paddle with gloves you
should buy a product that can be turned on and off easily with gloves and
can be held securely. A lanyard attachment is almost always available for
these lights. I've noticed some lights with specialty batteries that have
interesting physical characteristics but, in general, I like a standard
flashlight or electric torch size with a switch that's well protected from
the elements.

Brightness. Well, here's the rub. LED flashlight manufacturers, for some
reason, would prefer you base your buying decision on their specifications;
which are cleverly designed to not be comparable with any other LED
manufacturers' specs. They may say "5 bright LEDs" which would be nice if
all LEDs were the same output; which they aren't. Or they might only
indicate "takes 2 AA batteries" which is meaningless all by itself. Or give
you some number for "effective range". What you really want is "lumens" or,
failing that, watts (which can still be problematic). If you cannot get a
spec on an LED light in lumens or watts go on to the next light unless you
can test that unit.

In the USA the Campmor catalog offers a large assortment of LED lights most
of which are rated in both lumens and watts. This makes it handy for
comparison. You do want a light that the operator on the other vessel can
see but you don't want one that blinds him/her  for ten minutes after you
flash it.

How much brightness is enough? For our purposes anything over about 30
lumens should be sufficient. We are not necessarily trying to light up a sea
wall here. In watts... somewhere around 2 to 4.

Filter? I lose filters unless I glue or silicone them into place which
pretty much renders that light useful only for something that requires that
filter. I have a smaller LED light which I carry in my PFD that has a
permanent red filter. I prefer to use this for reading charts or notes,
checking the compass, etc. I also prefer to use this to check the GPS at
night instead of using the built-in light of the GPS. For one thing the
backlight of some GPS units is white (bad for night vision) and for another
it draws down the GPS' internal battery which you might need for navigation
as the trip continues. I use a smaller (less than 10 lumen) LED light for
this because even a red light can blind you if it's too bright.

Batteries. We've talked about avoiding "specialty" batteries that you can
only get from the manufacturer or some specialty stores handling that
device. Most of the time you want Lithium batteries because they have a good
shelf life and they also provide more output (voltage). The downside to
Lithium is that they do not fade down to nothing.... they die suddenly. If a
light is offered in 3-AAA battery configuration is will likely be brighter
than one offered in 2-AA configuration; all other things being equal. In
general more batteries equals more voltage equals more brightness (but not
necessarily more light over a longer period of time).

I'm sure others on the list will have even better suggestions.

>
> A grunt up into the wind, then turn and surf home
>

Isn't that just the greatest thing some times? I showed this to 9-year-old
Hailey last month. We hid under the freeway bridge while the wind howled up
the lake pushing waves through the bridge. I showed her how I like to paddle
a couple of yards into the wind and then turn, catch the waves as they start
to feel the bottom and then ride them through the bridge. She could not get
her boat to turn into the wind... so she backpaddled and then surfed them
forwards. Smart kid!!!


Craig Jungers
Moses Lake, WA
www.nwkayaking.net
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Received on Mon Jun 07 2010 - 09:14:00 PDT

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