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From: Dave Kruger <kdruger_at_pacifier.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] TR: Miller Sands Revisited: Lower Columbia River, Oregon, USA
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 05:45:26 -0700
Four of us completed a 16.5 nm loop Saturday on the lower Columbia, 
sketching a route in the mist and murk while transiting rarely paddled 
waters and visiting two features rare to our estuary.  [Route track: 
http://www.pbase.com/bartenderdave/image/127298740/original ]

Mild temperatures and dry air greeted us at the John Day boat ramp, totally 
shorn of power boaters ... all diverted by a hot salmon fishery between the 
jetties at the mouth of the River.  A swift exit past a retired railroad 
swing bridge lead to more open waters between Lois and Mott Islands, dredge 
spoil deposit residues of long ago Liberty ship mothball days.  At the 
Lois-Mott pass, helpful upriver current arrived along with less-useful 
surface murk and a gentle mist.

Debate ensued as to the best heading to reach the lower end of Miller 
Sands, some four nautical miles of open water distant, with the sharp eyes 
of others eventually spying range markers just down river from our 
objective.  The GPS kept us on the best ferry angle as our eyes fought to 
pick out a route ahead.  This business of sorting out things in poor 
visibility is rare for us, and the one person lacking a deck compass 
groaned and griped a bit ... but mostly in envy, not in frustration!

An hour and a bit later, we edged ashore on the sheltered, sandy shore of 
an arcuate three mile long "barrier island" the US Army Corps of Engineers 
and its contract pipeline dredgers have laid along the shipping channel, 
forming an open shallow area between the barrier and Miller Sands ("Miller 
Sands Lagoon" in local usage) much used by waterbirds.  Saturday, the 
lagoon was occupied by a dozen and a half white pelicans (new residents 
these past couple years), a couple hundred young mergansers, and the usual 
crowd of Caspian terns and grouchy cormorants found everywhere out there. 
The barrier has grown from a shallow, narrow shoal to a huge obstacle, in 
places a short quarter mile wide and 20 feet above high water, over the 
last 35-40 years, and was not charted for the first 20 years!

A foot-borne field trip took us to an active dredge spoil deposition site, 
resting for the weekend, scattered with heavy equipment.  Fifty-plus 
segments of large dredge pipe were set on land to direct de-silted overflow 
back to the river.  We had never seen one of these areas up close before, 
which required a thorough inspection.  The Corps passed, although one 
porta-potty seemed maybe not enough for these guys.

Back in the boats, as the mist shifted to drizzle we scooted a couple miles 
up the lagoon to the head of Miller Sands, hit the shore, and lunched under 
a huge hemlock adjacent to a stunning kinnickkinnick "meadow" surrounded by 
lovely mixed forest.  Most of these dredge spoil areas are so new no soil 
or decent vegetation has developed yet.  This was heaven, and a botanist's 
teachable moment for succession, showing dots of red huckleberry and the 
odd doug fir among the pioneer species.  I suspect this end of Miller Sands 
dates back 60-70 years or more, as it shows almost no scotch broom, 
indicating other species became established to shut it out before the broom 
became widespread down here.

Now the wind had picked up, the rain was coming down steadily, and the mist 
was heavier than before, so the guy with the GPS confidently identified the 
course needed to hit a protected channel some three nautical miles of open 
water distant, using an old waypoint from years ago.  Forty minutes later, 
nothing looked as he recalled it, and those with better eyes began to spot 
markers in all the wrong places.

A raft-up, glasses-wipe, and short look at Bruce's much-maligned 
"fisherman's map" (not a chart) told the story:  the waypoint was a mile 
wrong!  Correcting course, Bruce triumphantly took us to our desired 
channel separating two huge, low islands, and down the Prairie Channel 
toward Oregon, away from the never-never land of the middle of the River.

Many miles of slogging down-channel, broken by a half-hour raft-up 
encounter featuring a sing-a-long of old Beatles tunes, lead us back to the 
ramp, warm dry clothes, and an eventual reward at the Fort George Brewery 
of Vortex ale and serious oysters and chips.

It was one hell of a satisfying paddle, maybe the most fun I've had on the 
Columbia in ten years.  I love being lost and confused!

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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