[Paddlewise] Goat Harbor Roar--A Catalina Trip Report

From: Mark Sanders <marksanders_at_sandmarks.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 19:40:35 -0700
   3am was the wake-up call this Monday for the start of my Catalina 
adventure. What had started out as a group of eight dwindled down to 
three brave souls willing to make the trek to Goat Harbor. Ken, Debra 
and I carpooled down to Cabrillo with Barb offering to drop us off and 
pick us up--a great offer. This was Debra's first crossing, so she had 
the typical newbie nerves, although we knew she wouldn't have any trouble.

But trouble there was as we tried to enter the parking lot near our 
launching beach! A car was parked right in the entrance with its hood up 
and someone fumbling inside. There were two kayaks on the roof, so it 
seemed someone else might be looking at a 6am launch to Catalina. We all 
agreed we didn't want to cross with some strangers who might not rise to 
our lofty kayak talents! The man looked unfamiliar, but then I saw a 
woman's face peek out from the back and I said "it's Jeandrew!" "No", 
said everyone in the car; she's gone home to South Africa. But she it 
was and upon closer examination, the man turned out to be Connor. So the 
tables could be said to have turned--slim chance they'd want US  
dragging behind them like a sea anchor! But it turned out, they weren't 
heading for Catalina--they'd just RETURNED from Catalina! And what was 
worse, they said it had been a horrible crossing---not the sort of 
encouraging word for our newbie. But Ken had checked the morning 
forecast, which called for reasonable conditions and we decide to head 
out anyway.
(CKF clubmembers know Jeandrew to big one of the longest, fastest 
paddlers around and Connor just came back from an epic 2000 mile paddle 
of the coast of Wash. and AK, so when they tell you they had a rough 
time, you listen!)

We bid all adieu and left the Cabrillo sand to launch into small surf. I 
started the trip off poorly committing the cardinal sin of surf 
launches--listening to Ken on when to launch! The wave I punched was 
nothing to cause carnage, but the idea of starting off somewhat dry 
ended as my boat submarined through the wave. A bit later after plunging 
through quite a few swells, I noticed I'd forgotten to clip the straps 
on my front hatch, but somehow, everything remained dry.

This was the start to our wet crossing. We had just enough wind to make 
sure any drips off our paddles or water loosened churning through the 
swells would gather about our person. Only for a few minutes did the sun 
come out to create a shadow. The wind and wet kept us all on the chilly 
side. For most of the trip, we battled quartering seas from both the 
front and rear and Ken and Debra had a time dialing in the correct skeg 
setting. A little over half way, we started to see bits of the island 
peeking through the haze. About two hours away, conditions got even more 
challenging. The quartering seas picked up, as well as the wind sweeping 
around the Island. I was really enjoying myself, as having my bow 
plunging under the water always makes me feel like a real kayaker! The 
two quartering seas would often meet in the middle to crash right on our 
beam for a wet, bumpy ride. I was plowing away, when Ken came up to 
remind be I had a fully loaded kayak with a deck bag on the front and 
stadium cushion and guitar strapped to the back, so it might not be a 
good time to go too wild! That Ken! Always ready to throw sand in your 
picnic! Anyway, that got me contemplating the rolling motion for an 
overloaded kayak which made me go remind Debra that if she had to roll 
to take it nice and slow. I'm not sure she knew how to take the warning! 
The rest of the way in was dicey, but we soon found ourselves in the lee 
of Goat Harbor!

One bright side of losing more than half of our original paddlers for 
this trip is we had scooped up all three sites on the beach. Goat Harbor 
was to be all ours for our stay. It is a nice crescent shaped gravel and 
cobble stone beach. The high terrain in the back gives you a real sense 
of privacy. We set up camp and Debra and I both worked on setting up 
some shade. We'd both brought extra tent poles and tarps and we hooked 
them all together to create enough shade for all of us to lie under 
together to enjoy the cooling breezes and ocean views. The frequent 
strong gusts threatened to take away the whole shebang, but it lasted 
the whole stay. It would become command central for our Goat Harbor stay.

  So we had made it to Goat Harbor in less than 7 hours. The crossing 
had seemed pretty easy to me, but when I looked at my finger tips, they 
looked like giant puckered alien fingers! Debra had it worse--she'd worn 
a new pair of fingerless gloves and the edge of the gloves created a 
line of blisters on quite a few fingers! Ken said he started to remember 
why he said on his last trip to Catalina he wouldn't be coming again! 
There was already talk of skipping the planned trip to Two Harbors the 
next day, but I knew that was just the initial landing weariness 
talking. It was hot in the sun without much shade available, so our 
shade tarps were a life saver and after rehydrating, setting up camp and 
noshing a bit, we three sat in seventh heaven enjoying the beach and the 
breeze.

This was not a group that suffered from those long, unpleasant pauses 
where you can't think of anything to say!! We entertained ourselves 
quite nicely till the sun reached the cliff on the west side and the 
camp and we went from sunny heat to a warmly lighted glow. After our 
various dinners, the sky started to dim. Ken and Debra were like two 
folks from the olden days, huddled around the radio, but instead of 
Fibber McGee, they were listening to the weather channel to see what it 
predicted for the rest of our stay. I sat strumming my guitar in the 
glow of a big camp candle I'd brought to replace a roaring fire. Debra 
was the first to crack at eight, but before everyone headed to bed, I 
made them listen to my song, Goat Harbor Roar, that I'd written when our 
trip was first planned. So that was the end to a very eventful day.

We woke up to a nice leisurely morning. With no real agenda, we didn't 
have to be worried about being on the water at any certain time. I 
planned to head to 2H, but still wasn't sure if Ken and Debra would be 
joining me. We ate our breakfast sharing our table with the one abundant 
wildlife on the beach--bees! I think they were sand bees and they didn't 
seem to care too much about us, but spent their time searching the table 
and rocks for any morsel of food. True to my own heart, they were quite 
fond of bacon, which was my breakfast staple for the trip. You could 
swat them with impunity and I applied the "Aussie Salute", recently 
learned during our visit from Jacqui, to keep them away from me and 
mine! At about 9am, I said I was going to paddle to 2H and Ken and Debra 
decided to come too--the memory of the weary crossing now passed.

Debra used duct tape to swath her bumpy fingers and we set out west 
against a steady wind. We hugged the rocks to stay clear of the weather 
and didn't care we were only producing 2.5kts. We headed straight across 
a couple of the big coves and for this long slog had no relief from the 
wind. The sight of Ship Rocks buoyed my spirits, but it was a long 5+ 
NM. The trip to 2H wasn't just to replenish our water and buy a tasty 
burger, we were also expecting a fourth member to our camp. Dublin Dave 
was heading over own his own, although with the wind and waves what they 
were around the island, we weren't sure he hadn't aborted his trip. But 
Dave being the strong paddler that he is, within 20 minutes of our 
arrival, he was enjoying a burger with us on the patio overlooking the 
harbor!
We left 2H with the wind finally on our backs. I wanted to take full 
advantage of the conditions that made the paddle up a slog and so headed 
out wide while the other three kept closer to shore. I was 
tacking--getting good rides on the waves that would bring me closer to 
shore and then paddling out again. We were probably more spread out than 
some would prefer, but I kept watching to see if everyone was still 
around. Ken was staying with Dave and his full boat and Debra was out 
front with me, albeit closer to shore. I thought the inside waters were 
too confused because of the waves refracted from the shore. But if I had 
the easier rides, the rest of the group got the best view of a stampede 
of dolphins just flying through the wind! It was a neat sight even from 
my vantage. Closer to the Goat, Ken caught up with us and promptly 
missed a plant and had to roll, our only combat action!

Back at the Goat, we had plenty of beer, wine and shade for everyone, 
especially as Debra only imbibed of the shade! Dave and I both took 
refreshing soapy baths in the ocean, while Ken and Debra seemed content 
with their camping patinas. Dave soon set up and found his spot in our 
shade array and we got down to some serious ocean watching! Dinner came 
around with various meals planned, but I supplemented everyone's meal 
with the perfect camp food--hot dogs! I was left with half a can of 
chili to stick back into my cooler, but it actually came in handy later 
on our trip. Evening again found us around a blazing can where Dave, too 
was subjected to Goat Harbor Roar as his rite of passage. Perhaps we 
stretched the night a half hour past the day before.


You have to bring your own water to Goat Harbor as it is a primitive 
camp site--it should be MORE primitive! We knew there was an outhouse 
somewhere nearby, which we thought would make camping more pleasant, but 
the sight on the skip to the loo would make you cringe! Let's just say 
people must have decided that the outhouse was just something to aim 
for! And their aim was unsteady! Of course, the door had broken off long 
ago, which was probably a blessing! Debra and I decided to Wag Bag it, 
but Ken was a brave soul. But on our third day while sitting at camp we 
had visitors. A service boat arrived with three people, a kayak, several 
buckets and bags and a long stick! The first guy got off the boat and 
asked us if we were all together. Ken told him we'd rented all three 
sites and his reply was, "yeah, but you're all together, right? You took 
all three sites so you could have the whole beach to yourself! You know 
other people could have camped here if you'd all stayed at one camp!" We 
told him that we'd had a larger group planning to come, but the weather 
had scared them off, but he wasn't too mollified. I could see his point, 
were 2H and all the other boat-in sites full, but we'd passed by all 
empty beaches on our travels, so his admonition seemed unwarranted. I 
gave him some latitude considering he was just about to go up and clean 
our s&*t-house! When they were through with their work, they were 
friendlier and chatted with us. We opined to the head guy that we'd just 
as soon Wag Bag it than use such a facility and he was of the same 
opinion. When they left, one of them left part of the door and stick and 
told us we could burn it in the fire! I have to admit, the facility was 
at least usable after their administrations, but I think their visits 
are way too few and in between. They left us with some good advice--cat 
food put around the camp would draw away the bees--hence a use for my 
unused can-o-chilli! And gee, thanks for lettin' us burn your s&*t stick!!!

Our guests had provided an interesting change from our usual routine on 
what was our day of rest before the trip home. When the sun climbed our 
eastern peak, we headed for the shade and a day of checking out anything 
on the water. Ken had brought a good pair of binoculars which made the 
task easier. Dave had deserted us for another trip to 2H, he being a 
paddling hound! Ken napped in his tent while Debra and I stretched out 
in the shade. All of a sudden, Debra gave a start as something had 
either stung or bit her right above the knee, which gave her quite a bit 
of pain. It was a chance for both of us to raid our first-aid kits to 
see what ammunition we had to help her. She found some type of insect 
sting wipe and I put some ice in a small bag to wrap around her leg as a 
compress and after a bit of swelling, it started to ease.

You might think sitting in the shade staring at the ocean might become a 
bit boring, but I never found it so. I'd brought a book to read and 
crosswords to do, but never got a page read. Ken got antsy and spent 
some time rolling, but Debra and I wanted to save our shoulders for our 
next trek. Then, as Ken took a hike in the hills, Debra and I spent some 
time flying the kite I'd brought. Dave soon returned and under the shade 
the drinking began. Ken and I shared a giant Fosters beer and then some 
wine, but sadly, I couldn't get anyone to help me use up my tequila! 
 From then on, I know I enjoyed some tasty chicken tacos, but someone 
else will have to fill us in on what happened the rest of the night! 
Still, I had a good night and followed everyone to bed before too long.

We awoke before the sun our headlights darting about as we went about 
the task of readying for sea. We wanted an early start to avoid any 
nasty conditions for the trip back. We were all on the water by 6:05 and 
treated to a beautiful morning at sea. The view of the island from an 
hour out with the sun still fringed in the clouds was just great. The 
four of us made great time and within two hours had glimpses of the 
mainland. Our only wild life were on several occasions big groups of 
bait fish would come leaping out of the water. It was almost as if they 
were rounding us up, but more likely something else was after them! We 
had a bit of sun, a tad of wind and a hint of seas so it was a picture 
perfect crossing and both Ken and I thought we could do another twenty 
by the time we landed. Barb was waiting for us on the beach and Ken was 
so excited to see her he window shaded in the small surf! Dave and Debra 
landed incident free, but I hung back outside. This was my second trip 
with a guitar on back of my kayak and conditions hadn't always been 
benign! Ken had said he'd buy me a burger if I could roll my boat with 
guitar, cushion, deck bag, water bag and paddling jacket still under my 
bungies. I figured I ought to know if I could do it in case I ever want 
to carry it again. It was windy and cold and as I went over the boat 
rolled 3/4s the way around. I waited for it to settle and started my 
slow roll back up. Success!!! So not only do I claim to be the only 
kayaker to haul a guitar to Catalina, I'll also claim to be the first to 
roll with one till some proves different! A good way to end a good trip 
on the water!

It was a long process of getting all our nasty gear back into K&B's van. 
Dave had his own car to load as well. Barb came prepared with sodas, 
chips and salsa and Rollo cookies to ease us back to civilization. 
Finally we headed out to eat at the Lighthouse restaurant, where 
everyone ate like pigs, but me who supped on a reasonably size burger. 
It was a great trip. Having a high volume boat, I have a tendency to 
over pack, which I'm going to try to work on, but if you've got the 
room, why not fill it! My only real disappointment was there wasn't any 
real driftwood on our beach, so I never had an opportunity to bring out 
my throwing knives!

Mark

*Link to Ken's photos, as I went mostly photoless

http://tinyurl.com/27lz329

  #*
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Received on Fri Sep 17 2010 - 19:40:37 PDT

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