[Paddlewise] Inspired by Sean Morley

12/13/10

To the best of my recollection...

I watched the latest video of Sean Morley having a bit of trouble up in 
Frisco and told Ken and Duane I was going to have to go out today and 
get hung up on a rock! But hey, this is Newport not Frisco, so how much 
trouble can you find? Debra was at the Secret Beach sporting plastic and 
Ken was there with his surf ski, so we had a quorum.

With the low tide and small swell, Debra and I were soon winding our way 
through the rocks by Corona, while Ken paddled a little way out. There 
wasn't much in the way of swell, but I was still impressed with Debra's 
confidence as she followed me along. Once again, it was a lazy rock 
garden lite party with hardly a wave to be seen all the way down.

I hurried over to Chute Rock hoping maybe some rogue wave would give me 
enough oomph to make it over, but there was barely enough to get my bow 
stuck, so I gave up hope. I figured at least I could try to find a bit 
of trouble over in Brace Alley and moseyed my way over.

Debra was already on the other side as I was out right in front of the 
point. I wasn't giving any thought to any waves, being as conditions had 
been so mild, but had you asked me some time even prior to today, I 
would have told you that this little point can have a wave breaking on 
it when you least expect it. I was only mildly surprised to find myself 
next to a sucking reef on the ebb. Still, I though it would be good 
practice to deal with it on this mild day. I was quite a bit more 
surprised when a wave hit me and sent me broaching to an unavoidable 
meeting with the rocks!

I have a bit of a philosophy about playing on days like this. You may 
not agree with it. With condition generally so mild, I don't really try 
to read every wave coming near me. I think of it as a chance to deal 
with situations that come up at last minute; as preparation for a time 
when things aren't so forgiving. So now I found myself in an "oh me, oh 
my" moment. I didn't really see the wave that hit me, so I don't know 
how big it was, but it felt big enough at the time!

I broached into the wave and knew I was due for an impact. Heeled over, 
I took it on the bottom of the boat with only mild spinal contraction! I 
was pinned against the rock and figured I'd better get ready to roll up 
when it ebbed, as I didn't want to spend much time upside down in these 
rocks with the next wave coming. But when the wave ebbed, I found myself 
stuck in a rocky cradle! The next wave came and shook me around a bit, 
but didn't release me. I tried to push myself off to get loose for the 
next wave, but only ended up landing on top of my paddle! A bit more 
jostling and I was able to free it, but looking at the sets coming in, I 
didn't think I wanted to try to launch there again!

I bailed out on a lull and grabbed my bow line to pull my boat up to a 
better launch site. I was glad I was able to spend some time up on this 
rock on TG day, so I knew I could find a safe spot to rest. The waves 
were still battering my boat a bit as I pulled it over to the chute 
where I was hoping for more protection for launching. First, I took some 
time just to get my wits back a bit and to see what I had to launch 
into. I couldn't figure out where these waves were coming from that were 
now breaking right at the exit to the chute! They weren't really big, 
but they were breaking at a very inopportune point for me to get out! 
There wasn't much else to do though, so I got in the boat high on the 
rock and launched into the chute at the next lull and made an easy slide 
to clean water.

Well, at least we had something to chat about on the way home. We 
stopped outside the jetty to get a couple rolls in and then it was the 
usual paddle through the harbor. I hadn't planned or expected to get 
into such a situation, but I don't think it was too death defying! Ken 
may disagree, but he was in a surf ski!!

Mark
www.sandmarks.net
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