I prefer the Bacho products generally for their performance value, especially the ones with the none-dominant hand grip handles as I get better control (nothing worse than a scraper rocking laterally and gouging your work) and obviously more downward pressure. I also flip or replace the carbide before the edge gets too dull. I still like the regular steel scrapers from Richard (et al) as they are slightly convex and have their applications. The carbide scrapers don't have as much clearance for detritus removal for large, rapidly-removed surfaces. http://www.spesystems.co.nz/shop/div+idspeBRANDSdiv/RICHARD+TOOLS/Speciality +Knives+%26+Scrapers/Richard+Heavy+Duty+Ergo-Grip+Paint+Scraper.html Depending on price, the carbide is a good deal for epoxy jobs though I sharpen my Richard scrapers quickly with a fine flat file easily enough and find they clean-up easier. Looking forward to hearing results Mark. Hopefully their won't be any "splintered" PW/CKF postings from a bad encounter at Big Arch Rock...if you catch my drift! Well, I'm off to my shop now... Doug -- Mark, You've got a great project ahead of you. That will be a fun playboat for a guy your size. First piece of advice: get a carbide-blade-equipped scraper (hardware store) similar to this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-America-650-2-edge-Scraper/dp/B0015YNI3G or, this (maybe too heavy duty): http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-665XXX-Premium-Ergonomic-Carbide/dp/B000288LP6 The scraper will allow you to remove all the excess resin and glass at those joints with minimal damage to the wood. Do not use an orbital sander to remove the stuff -- it will cut into the adjacent uncoated wood and not affect the resin/glass as much. After the scraper, use a sanding block (80 grit on the pad), carefully, and remove the remaining stuff by hand. Even being very careful, you'll probably sand away too much of the wood, which will result in cosmetic damage, but once the resin/glass is back on there, it will be plenty strong. You will probably eventually decide to paint that part of the boat. Second piece: get onto West Coast Paddler and start a saga of your adventures. That is a good group for helping folks with things like this. Third: if you get really stuck, call Pygmy. they are really helpful. Fourth: put the resin and hardener under a cardboard box, with a 60 W trouble light to keep the stuff warm. Cold epoxy resin does not flow into/onto the wood at all well, and will cauwe you a ton of grief. I use a 20" by 25" by 25" plywood box, with a 60W bulb in a fixture to store mine, summer and winter. Dispensing is easier, and if you mix small amounts, the exotherm is not so aggressive that it will go off in the pot. Fifth: to understand that last paragraph, read the System Three Epoxy Book (online as a pdf file at the S3 site if it did not come with the kit). Sixth: glove up with nitrile gloves when working the resin, even if it is cured. Sensitization is a small likelihood, but a real disaster if it happens. Use a vapor mask when applying uncured resin -- kind painters wear (about $40 at better hardware stores). Have fun! -- Dave Kruger Astoria, OR *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - Any opinions or suggestions expressed here are solely those of the writer(s). You must assume the entire responsibility for reliance upon them. All postings copyright the author. Submissions: PaddleWise_at_PaddleWise.net Subscriptions: PaddleWise-request_at_PaddleWise.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Wed Dec 29 2010 - 12:19:19 PST
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