Re: [Paddlewise] waves in california

From: Melissa Reese <willkayakforfood_at_gmx.com>
Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 01:40:33 -0700
Hi Paul,

On Monday, September 05, 2011, at 10:18:55 PM PST, you wrote:

> Melissa, is the use of a surf ski different from using a surf board
> in a group situation ? If it's not, do you also condemn such use of
> surf boards - with other surfies or swimmers in the water? If it is
> different, is it different in 'kind' or in 'quantity' ie: do you see
> it as posing a different type of risk or just a greater risk ?

A bit of both, I'd say; and I still feel that it was a bad decision on
the part of the surf skier to be there, then. It's not a matter of who
has a "right" to be there, it's a matter of judgment and personal
responsibility.

The Wedge is a dangerous wave; considering the wave itself, the jetty,
the slope of the beach right there, and the sheer number of people in
the water on a day like that (I've been there in those conditions many
times - as a body surfer). Though certainly dangerous, for years, I
came to know a certain tenuous equilibrium that existed there between
board and body surfers, but as Duane has also noted, people do get
hurt, and die there as well.

I was certainly *young and stupid enough* to have thoroughly enjoyed
all my close encounters with the Wedge during the five years I lived
down there. And I was lucky, too.  I survived.

In the countless times I've been there, even though it did get crazy
(we called it "gnarly") at times with lots of people in the water (in
front of, in, on, under, behind, etc.), it was kind of miraculous that
more people didn't get hurt and killed. In spite of the apparent
chaos, there was some rhyme and reason to it as well, and board and
body surfers sorted themselves out surprisingly well in some organic
sort of way. Not foolproof by any means, but we worked it out, and
"few" people got hurt.

All that said, though I won't claim the kind of boat/wave prowess that
surfski paddler has (and I'm not a surfski paddler, just a sea kayak
paddler), I've had enough experience in waves to have felt both
sublime control and a spot of bother now and again (sublime control
can turn into a spot of bother in an instant). No matter how much
experience I might have now or into the future, I'd still never take
my boat into a situation like that, at the Wedge. Just knowing what
*could* happen is all I'd need to make that decision. An easy
decision, indeed.

A long boat, with either paddler or water in it (even the best of
paddlers can be separated from their boat in that wave - trust me on
that), will add an unquestionably enhanced degree of danger to all in
the vicinity - and it happens in an instant. 20/20 hindsight might
help the experienced paddler learn something for the next time, but
the damage may very well have already been done. Is the juice worth
the squeeze?

Granted, the Wedge is a very special wave, and I fully understand
wanting to have some fun there (I wouldn't put it past myself to give
it another go--body surfing--if I find myself down there again
someday), but there are plenty of other breaks where long boat
paddlers can have all sorts of fun, and not stand such a perfect
chance of hurting so many people in one unhappy yard sale.

-- 
Melissa
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Received on Tue Sep 06 2011 - 01:41:20 PDT

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