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From: Mark Sanders <marksanders_at_sandmarks.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] Santa Cruzin'--Repost
Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2014 12:49:10 -0700
I sent this out the other day, but I guess a lot of people didn't get 
it! The video I posted was from this contest. Hopefully this one will 
sneak through!

Mark Sanders

On 3/31/2014 9:09 PM, Mark Sanders wrote:
>
> I don't know how many years ago I saw my first video of a surf kayaker 
> surfing at Steamer Lane for the Santa Cruz PaddleFest--I just remember 
> the wave was perfect! Not a giant wave, more like a watery escalator 
> continually adding more shoulder to ride on. I've wanted to surf there 
> ever since. But the SC contest always seemed out of my league, until I 
> found they had a novice division. With my disappointing showing at 
> Davenport last Nov., I decided that was the best bet for me and I 
> could at least get my first real look at the real Steamers.
>
> So I entered the open division of the 2 day Cowells Classic, while 
> Jack entered the new Production Plastic division of the full blown 
> Steamers Lane contest. Having only just gotten over some bad back 
> trouble, I was a bit leery and not in great shape. And though I 
> consider it my worst surfing boat, for lots of reasons, I decided to 
> surf my Dagger RPM Max. I really just wanted to get on the water and 
> catch a few waves; I didn't really think I'd have much chance to 
> compete. I was really wanting to go, because I'd heard this was the 
> best place to find used boats and maybe I could find that elusive, big 
> man's surf boat! But while there were good buys for people of normal 
> size, there was nothing there for me.
>
> Saturday morn I arrived to check in for my heat and found really lousy 
> conditions. Wind and drizzle that would fluctuate with heavy rain all 
> through the day. Steamer's had some decent wave action, but it was 
> quite windblown and the area for the Cowells competition had nothing! 
> I really considered whether I wanted to brave the wet, cold, windy 
> conditions just to bob around on the ocean for 20 minutes! But they 
> postponed the event till 2pm hoping for a change in the swell and the 
> next day things were suppose to get a lot better, so I was a go.
>
> While waiting by the tents, I ran into Sean Morley and mentioned to 
> him that Jack was competing too. He kiddingly said, "don't mention his 
> name! %#%_at_ beat me in our heat yesterday!" I caught up with Jack, 
> who'd started the day before me and he said they'd had great waves on 
> Friday and he'd had a great heat. Of course, this category was made 
> for Jack as he loves surfing his plastic Necky Gliss. He was a bit 
> upset that the rocky launching area required scratching up its 
> pristine hull.
>
> By 2pm a good sized swell had arrived. Before making the long climb 
> down the cliff steps to the water, I sat in my car to avoid the 
> pouring rain. Nervous, I launched early to be able to watch the heat 
> in front of me, but ended up at the meet up zone almost an hour before 
> my heat. While it gave me plenty of time to get some feel for the 
> conditions, it also gave time to get chilled considering I was only 
> wearing a wetsuit top. I met my competitors, a nice group, but two of 
> them were in flashy HP boats. But we were all easy going about getting 
> on a wave and no one ever had to fight for a ride!
>
> The waves we were riding were essentially the same wave from 
> Steamer's, except with the steepest end chopped off by the point! You 
> could watch the monsters form at Steamer's and follow it to our zone, 
> albeit with a bit less energy. As is generally my wont, I start off 
> with the biggest wave I can get and figure things can only get better 
> from there! There was quite a bit of trepidation, though, as I dropped 
> down that first face. I made it a rather short ride along the face 
> before pulling out before the rest of the wave broke to head back 
> outside.
>
> My main goal was to get at least three rides so I could get a full 
> score. Second and tertiary goals: don't capsize and avoid the cliff! I 
> seem to remember making some nice moves on some waves and getting 
> stuck in the white water till that third goal seems in trouble. Rides 
> were long alongside the face of the waves, but tough to come over the 
> crest to get out clean. I had no idea what my competitors were doing, 
> but I felt a sense of relief and redemption for my Davenport debacle. 
> Now and then, I tried to remember I was having fun! But while I'd 
> lamented the lack of waves earlier in the day, I now wondered what 
> these big rides meant for the next day, where the forecast called for 
> 7 footers at Cowells.
>
> I awoke in the morning not to rain, but pea soup fog, but when I got 
> to the beach, there was sun and blue sky. The moment I got out of the 
> car, I saw the amazing waves flying through Steamers. The SUP category 
> was up and they were tearing up the waves like no other SUPers I've 
> ever seen. The waves were BIG, but the trajectory was less right at 
> the cliffs and more parallel the coast and there was that endless 
> shoulder I'd envied. I'd never been near waves this big, but that 
> shoulder still looked like a safe way out of trouble, as long as you 
> remained wet-side down. These guys weren't playing it easy, as 
> evidenced by the broken SUP lapping against the rocks. I never got the 
> hear the whole story on that ride.
>
> Jack was up at noon and I was there to video his heat. Things had 
> changed a bit, the waves were still big, but they often headed a 
> little more towards the cliffs. The heat before had been tearing it 
> up, but when Jack and two others of his heat assembled in the big wave 
> corridor, they were hit with a 3-4 minute lull! Sean Morley avoided 
> that trouble by coming in right close to the cliff to score early on 
> some inside waves. Finally some waves showed up and I could swear Jack 
> was at eye level with me on the cliff on top of some of those brutes! 
> Soon they were all speeding down the faces of waves looking for a 
> clean get-away. Sean can flying in on one and was out of sight by the 
> cliff, when the lifeguards all of sudden came to life. Either he came 
> out of his boat, or his skirt imploded, but he was soon powering his 
> way clear, half submerged with water. It was close to the end of the 
> heat and the rest of the crew continued getting great rides.
>
> The early morning conditions had been amazing, but my heat wasn't 
> until 3:20pm and the afternoon condition began to deteriorate. Waves 
> at Steamer's were still big, but the strong onshore wind meant we'd 
> have to be finding the critical peak of the wave at Cowells. I was 
> feeling looser, but the waves were definitely bigger than the day 
> before. I think it was my second wave of the day that was my biggest 
> ride. I remember dropping in, standing on my pegs to keep my bow from 
> burying. I really think my RPM helped me here with its extra volume. I 
> came down the trough and made a right and was flying alone the face of 
> the wave. Usually this is the time you're looking for the end of that 
> shoulder to make your exit, but there was no exit in sight! I was 
> flying along with enough time to remember to hyperventilate, because I 
> knew I wasn't going to get out from under this wall of water. Foam 
> blowing off the crest and into my face didn't help the breathing 
> process. I turned myself down wave as it broke and got spit forward by 
> the mass of white water. Perhaps I looked like I knew what I was 
> doing, as I fought my boat flinging from side to side. Finally, I 
> planted a high brace and fought to get out of the white stuff before I 
> reached the rocks. When I was finally free, I thought that might be a 
> good way to end my heat, but I couldn't remember how many waves I'd 
> had and figured I had to head out for more.
>
> I tried to add some smaller waves to my dance card before I realized 
> the wind and my last ride had me well out of they real surf area. I 
> hurried back and was able to get a couple more short rides. Near the 
> end of the heat, a good sized wave peaked up mostly in between Robert 
> and me. It was hard to tell who had the right of way, but I figured I 
> did, as I was further out than he. It was a great way to end the heat, 
> but at the end of the wave, I saw Robert had ridden the wave too, on 
> what seemed the other side of a broken section. We never came close to 
> one another, so I figured interference wasn't an issue and we'd gotten 
> away with a party wave! The waves had been big and fast, but I don't 
> know how they scored, as I was more interested in living through them 
> than trying any fancy moves. But wherever I ended up in the mix, I was 
> happy with what I'd been able to do while riding my glorified barrel.
>
> I met up with Jack back at the main tent where we waited for the award 
> ceremony. It was quite touching, as the man who started the SC 
> Paddlefest was giving up the reins after 28 years in charge! I saw 
> more than a few of the winners from Davenport go up to receive their 
> award for this contest. Young and old. Two of the biggest winners, 
> quite a surprise to me,  were two young paddlers from the Basque 
> Country, Ibon and Edu,  who took first and second in the High 
> Performance category. Along with nice medals, there was some nice 
> money handed out for some categories. One sponsor donated money for 
> the first and second place winners for the Production Plastic kayak 
> division. They spoke of how these boats were how kayak surfing began, 
> they being the only boat available in the early days.  And they 
> mention the courage it took to ride waves like we'd had on the day in 
> boats so less suited to them then the new, fast, dedicated surf boats 
> of the day. Sean Morley got to pick up a check for first place. Jack 
> missed out by one, taking the 3rd place medal!
>
> And as for the Cowells Classic, they called out the 3rd and 4th place 
> winners, which seemed to leave me out of the mix, but then, turns out 
> I pulled out a second place finish! It is truly more than I thought I 
> could manage when I started. And to think, I'd almost let a little 
> wind and rain keep me off the water. It was another amazing paddle 
> adventure to add to my list. When I had coffee with my friends Ken and 
> Barb today, I told them my neck was real sore. They wondered if it was 
> because of my back trouble, but I said no. Pulling my medal out from 
> underneath my sweater, I said it was from having this heavy metal 
> around my neck for 20 hours straight! No, I didn't really sleep with 
> it, but at my age I don't think I have many more medals in me, so I'll 
> enjoy it for a while. And I have a year to wonder if 2nd place at 
> Cowells means I'm ready to brave Steamer Lane next time.
>
> Full results from the event:
> http://asudoit.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/03/2014-Paddlefest-Full-Results.pdf 
>
>
> Mark Sanders
> www.SandMarks.net
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