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From: Dave Kruger <dkruger_at_seasurf.com>
subject: [Paddlewise] Coaming Adhesive: FG yaks
Date: Tue, 23 Jun 1998 23:07:25 -0700
I'm in the middle of "reattaching" one edge of the cockpit coaming on my
Eddyline Wind Dancer.  

The coaming separated from the deck over a period of a year or so, with
the failure occurring where the polyester resin (?)/phenolic
microballoon (?) putty joined the underside of the deck.  (Coaming seems
solidly attached to the putty material.)  I had this same problem with
another WD I owned 6 years ago, whose coaming was attached with a
Cabosil-polyester resin putty (I think).  This also failed at the
putty/deck interface.

Considering the stresses I have applied to the coaming/deck joint, I'm
not upset about the failure.  It's not too bad a job, though the
fiberglass itch nails me for a week or so on projects like this, and
it's tough to get to all the surfaces which need sanding/grinding.  

I am curious, though, why Eddyline chose a putty which was NOT
epoxy-based, and why there was no chopped glass in the mix to improve
its strength.  I'd think both of these would improve the durability of
the joint.

Anybody else know what adhesive/filler combo is used to keep the
coaming/deck joint intact on their FG yak?

Anybody else experience failure of this joint?

I'm finding that sanding/grinding a little ways into the deck material 
seems to be necessary to get a good "tooth" for the repair.  When I did
this five/six years ago, I used polyester resin and a couple layers of
mat to reinforce the seam, and that seemed to be pretty strong.  (Did
not know epoxy was better, then.)

To prevent a reoccurrence, I'm going to make sure the tangs which extend
down from the coaming are supported by the hull.  I think the separation
started when there was a little gap between the end of the tang and the
hull inner surface, so when I used the coaming rim to lift myself out of
the yak, I over-stressed the coaming/deck joint.  Finally got so bad a
couple weeks ago, there was a FLOOD of water entering the cockpit when I
did leaned turns on that side!  That's what initiated the repair.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
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From: John Winters <735769_at_ican.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Coaming Adhesive: FG yaks
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 06:27:34 -0400
Dave wrote;

-(SNIP)


>Considering the stresses I have applied to the coaming/deck joint, I'm
>not upset about the failure.  It's not too bad a job, though the
>fiberglass itch nails me for a week or so on projects like this, and
>it's tough to get to all the surfaces which need sanding/grinding.
>
>I am curious, though, why Eddyline chose a putty which was NOT
>epoxy-based, and why there was no chopped glass in the mix to improve
>its strength.  I'd think both of these would improve the durability of
>the joint.

There may be chopped glass in the mix although the fiber length may be
short so they are not easily discerned. Also, polyester adhesive mixes are
not unusual and do hold up quite well when the resin used is flexible
enough for the job. With time polyesters do get more rigid and maybe the
resin Eddyline used was not as flexible as it could have been. Production
demands often eliminate epoxy as a practical adhesive.

>
>Anybody else know what adhesive/filler combo is used to keep the
>coaming/deck joint intact on their FG yak?

Since kayaks are rather flexible the coaming joint can be the stiffest part
of the deck. This invites failure so the best adhesive is one that has
enough elongation to accomodate the flex of the deck. Sikaflex 292 is a
good flexible adhesive for polyester joints. I would rate it better than
epoxy since it allows movement. There are other similar adhesives but those
I am familiar with are industrial materials and not readily available.

(SNIP)

>I'm finding that sanding/grinding a little ways into the deck material
>seems to be necessary to get a good "tooth" for the repair.  When I did
>this five/six years ago, I used polyester resin and a couple layers of
>mat to reinforce the seam, and that seemed to be pretty strong.  (Did
>not know epoxy was better, then.)

You would need a good "tooth" for the epoxy too and you should be sure all
the brittle filler is removed or the joint will fail again at the
epoxy/polyester filler interface.


>To prevent a reoccurrence, I'm going to make sure the tangs which extend
>down from the coaming are supported by the hull.  I think the separation
>started when there was a little gap between the end of the tang and the
>hull inner surface, so when I used the coaming rim to lift myself out of
>the yak, I over-stressed the coaming/deck joint.  Finally got so bad a
>couple weeks ago, there was a FLOOD of water entering the cockpit when I
>did leaned turns on that side!  That's what initiated the repair.

The flooding is a bummer. Be cautious with the support to the hull. You may
cause a hard spot that could cause a hull failure. Sea kayak hulls and
decks tend to thin and joints should give a bit and not cause "Hard" spots.

Cheers,
John Winters
Redwing Designs
Specialists in Human Powered Watercraft
http://home.ican.net/~735769/


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From: Dave Kruger <dkruger_at_seasurf.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Coaming Adhesive: FG yaks
Date: Wed, 24 Jun 1998 04:14:15 -0700
John Winters wrote:

> There may be chopped glass in the mix although the fiber length may be
> short so they are not easily discerned. Also, polyester adhesive mixes are
> not unusual and do hold up quite well when the resin used is flexible
> enough for the job. With time polyesters do get more rigid and maybe the
> resin Eddyline used was not as flexible as it could have been. Production
> demands often eliminate epoxy as a practical adhesive.

I think you nailed it here, John.  This stuff is hard as a rock, and the
fillet is very thick in places -- giving essentially no flex.  BTW, the
technician I spoke to at Eddyline recommended epoxy/glass as a fix --
could be they now use that.  When I was up there a year ago, looked like
they were using a Cabosil/polyester mix, but they may have switched,
since.

> Since kayaks are rather flexible the coaming joint can be the stiffest part
> of the deck. This invites failure so the best adhesive is one that has
> enough elongation to accomodate the flex of the deck. Sikaflex 292 is a
> good flexible adhesive for polyester joints. I would rate it better than
> epoxy since it allows movement. There are other similar adhesives but those
> I am familiar with are industrial materials and not readily available.
[snip]

Gotcha.  I'd use Sikaflex if I had the energy/time to remove the whole
coaming insert.  The failed segment is only 18 inches long along one
side, so I think I'll go with something having compliance comparable to
the rest of the joint.

> You would need a good "tooth" for the epoxy too and you should be sure all
> the brittle filler is removed or the joint will fail again at the
> epoxy/polyester filler interface.
[snip]

Good advice.

> The flooding is a bummer. Be cautious with the support to the hull. You may
> cause a hard spot that could cause a hull failure. Sea kayak hulls and
> decks tend to thin and joints should give a bit and not cause "Hard" spots.

Yeah, aware of that.  The failure of the coaming joint is really my
fault.  I removed the stock seat (integral with the coaming) and
"extended" each tang with a screwed-on flange of polycarbonate sheet,
leaving a quarter-inch gap, which I filled with a sandwich of hard black
rubber and softer foam.  I'd have been OK with this arrangement, but
somehow my sandwich got flushed out on one side, and the lack of support
on that side allowed my 100 kilos to delam it on exit.  (I usually lift
myself out using the cockpit rim.)  I'll make sure the sandwich does not
leave this time!

I much appreciate your very professional and highly knowledgeable
advice, John.  Your expertise, alone, makes PW a terrific resource! 
Thanks for the response.

-- 
Dave Kruger
Astoria, OR
sea kayaker -- and chemist
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