Re: [Paddlewise] Atlantic Canada paddling

Rob Gendreau wrote:

> I'm gonna be on the east coast this summer (probably August). I'm
> interested in getting recommendations on sea kayaking outfitters and
> trips. I'm particularly interested in multi-day tours. I've seen a
> couple, Cape Breton and the southern coast of Newfoundland, that look
> good. I've gotten suggestions to go with Coastal Adventures, and they
> have a decent web site.

I went on a trip with Coastal Adventures last August and can vouch for the
quality of the trips, guides and food.  We took a seven day outing through the
Eastern Shore Islands northeast of Halifax.  We started at Tangier (Coastal
Adventures home base) and ended at Moser River.  We camped on a
different island every night with the exception of spending one in a
log cabin maintained by locals that is freely accessible to anyone on
condition they leave it in at least as good shape as they found it (the
Nova Scotians are wonderful and this kind of communal spirit is typical
in the rural areas - at one shopping centre we drove to the following week
we saw that folks left their car windows open in the parking lot with parcels
on the seats, no fear of theft!).

We saw many seals, a couple of porpoise, lots of shore birds (comorant,
osprey etc) but the water around the islands is too shallow to expect
to see whales (up to about 60ft. depth).  The islands are generally heavily
wooded with very fragrant coniferous trees.  There are beaches
but often cobble rather than sand.  The water's a tad cold to swim in.
The sea was generally calm, with many opportunities to paddle relatively
protected from island to island.  There are very few boats.  The fishery in
the area is dormant and the population in the area is low.  The Eastern
Shore is a secret about to be discovered.

Scott Cunningham, who with his wife Gayle, runs Coastal Adventures, has
written a good book  - Sea Kayaking in Nova Scotia - published by Nimbus
ISBN 1-55109-156-9.

I've not paddled Cape Breton, but have hiked the area.  It's a wonderful
place and Coastal Adventures provides trips there as well.  Gros Morne
in Newfoundland is supposed to be spectacular from all reports I've
received and it's on my list of places to paddle in Eastern Canada
(as well as Saguenay and the Minganie in Quebec).

The tourist information folks in the Maritimes are very helpful.  Nova
Scotia Tourism is at 800-565-0000.  email nsvisit_at_fox.nstn.ca.  They
have a web site at http://explore.gov.ns.ca/virtualns.

Things to watch for:
       in Halifax in early August they have a Buskers' Festival in the
       harbour area.  Lots of great shows and pay  what you like after the show.

       The Fortress at Louisberg is a reconstruction of the original
       settlement by the French at Isle Royale (as Cape Breton was
       known then)  A fascinating walk through history.

I could go on - but I'll let it rest for now.

Mike.


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