[Paddlewise] Re[2]: floating tow rope

From: <David.Miner_at_gsbsc.gensig.com>
Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:50:19 -0500
     Some of the higher end PFDs on the whitewater market are designed with 
     quick-release cam straps with a large ring in the back to clip in a 
     tow rope via a biner. The person or boat being towed is clipped into 
     the tower. If there is a problem, the tower pulls the quick release 
     cam on the front of the PFD and the ring slides off the strap.
     
     Have any of you tried this method of towing on open water? If so, what 
     do you think? If not, what do you think? My whitewater instructors at 
     NOC all had to where this style PFD and it worked well.
     
     Dave Miner
     david.miner_at_gsbsc.gensig.com
     Sarasota, FL


______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________
Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] floating tow rope
Author:  wanewman_at_uswest.net at Internet2
Date:    1/29/99 12:27 AM


Thanks Mark I agree with your comments about needing a floating line and on 
practicing with various systems and techniques so people can get skilled enough 
to start a tow quickly in an emergency situation.  Don Dimond and I taught a 
towing clinic so we had the chance to look into the various towing systems and 
techniques in depth.  We of course have our own preferences and prejudices so 
not everyone will agree with us.  We feel that for most Great Lakes paddlers a 
30 to 50 foot tow line is sufficient and longer lines just add more bulk. 
However if you think you will be towing in very large seas a line over 50 feet 
might be in order.  More line gives you more options, but a long line gets 
bulky unless you want to compromise by using a small diameter.
     
I prefer to only pay out as much line as needed since the more rope there is in 
the water the greater the drag and wasted energy.  However it is worth noting 
that in a following sea you may need to pay out the full length to keep from 
getting overtaken by the towed kayak.  When heading into the wind a shorter 
length is in order.  Also you take the emotional state of the person you are 
assisting into account - the closer they are to you the better if their 
confidence has been shaken.
     
I can't stress enough the importance of a shock cord in the system.  A friend 
of mine towed someone five miles in 10 to 15 foot seas without a shock cord on 
his tow line.  He said when the boats decided to head down opposite sides of a 
wave it felt like being rear-ended in a car accident.  He is lucky he did not 
peel the deck off his kayak in one of these impacts.  The average towing force 
is normally less than 10 pounds, so it is the sudden shocks that need to be 
damped out of the system - a thicker rope is not needed for greater strength, 
but thicker lines are easier to pull on forcefully bare handed, and if rubbed 
or frayed they are less likely to part when you need them most ( use as a heavy 
a line as you can, as long as it does not get to bulky).
     
For long tows a deck mounted rig is less tiring than a waist mount.  Keep in 
mind a Caribiner is not a suitable quick release since it will not open under 
tension.  There are some great Cam-cleat deck mount rigs that you can release 
one-handed while upside down and disoriented, and most commercial waist tows 
have quick release buckles.  The big advantage to a waist tow is that unlike a 
deck mounted system you can give it to someone else and have them tow you!  It 
seems like I always end up on the hard work side of the tow line!  Although 
Caribiners are workable I think they are a bit bulky and can tend to jam after 
abuse and exposure to saltwater.  I have used some smaller stainless steel 
clips that I found in the sailing gear at Boat US ( Halyard clips???) which are 
a bit expensive, but seem to be just the ticket.
     
Mark Stirling wrote:
     
> I strongly suggest that people get out there and try out a few tow 
> ropes.  I have both 100" foot homemade and a 60 foot Northwater
> systems towrope.  Both are equipped with stainless caribiners at each 
> end and floats.  A sinking rope is next to useless in rough
> conditions.  Clearly someone needing towing is likely incapacitated
> and reaching into the water to pick up a sinking line puts that person 
> at greater than necessary risk of capsize. The concept of the biner is 
> that you can paddle past the distressed kayak and clip it on almost
> instantly without fuss.  The strain actually comes on gradually not 
> with any sudden jerk if your towline is of reasonable length.  The 
> lines I'm using  are of 7/16" and 1/2" diameter and the strength is 
> more than adequate.  The primary consideration is handling.  The
> length to be paid out is to allow the towed kayak to be at the same 
> relative position on its wave as the kayak towing.  This minimizes
> stress and makes towing any distance much easier.  I use an around the 
> waist belt attachment with quick release buckle.  I have seem some
> deck mounted arrangements but have been doubtful about  their quick
> release ability which may be necessary in surf etc.  I believe a quick 
> release arrangement to be superior to the "weak link" concepts
> proposed.  Again the best way is to get out in expected conditions
> somewhere safe (i.e. safe beach with onshore wind in rough conditions) 
> and practice so you can use your rescue systems with ease and
> confidence.
>
> Mark
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To: Mark Stirling <msti_at_istar.ca>
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Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] floating tow rope
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