Re: [Paddlewise] Re[2]: floating tow rope

It is my preferred method for towing, for it helps me cut down on the
amount of hurky-jurky, gives me a direct feel for what is going on behind
me, is easier to keep from tangling when pivoting (though I would not want
to windowshade), and is very easy to disconnect if there are any problems
without leaving me drooling line which may become snagged (particularly
important in ww).

(BTW, in addition to a quick release, the better ones have cord or ribbon
which will break under too sudden a heavy a load and also have a carabiner
which will break under too sudden a heavy load.  Not too important for open
water towing, but essential for ww towing.)

Cheers,
Richard Culpeper
www.geocities.com/~culpeper

----------
> From: David.Miner_at_gsbsc.gensig.com
> To: 
> Cc: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
> Subject: [Paddlewise] Re[2]: floating tow rope
> Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 2:50 PM
> 
>      Some of the higher end PFDs on the whitewater market are designed
with 
>      quick-release cam straps with a large ring in the back to clip in a 
>      tow rope via a biner. The person or boat being towed is clipped into

>      the tower. If there is a problem, the tower pulls the quick release 
>      cam on the front of the PFD and the ring slides off the strap.
>      
>      Have any of you tried this method of towing on open water? If so,
what 
>      do you think? If not, what do you think? My whitewater instructors
at 
>      NOC all had to where this style PFD and it worked well.
>      
>      Dave Miner
>      david.miner_at_gsbsc.gensig.com
>      Sarasota, FL
> 
> 
> ______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
> Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] floating tow rope
> Author:  wanewman_at_uswest.net at Internet2
> Date:    1/29/99 12:27 AM
> 
> 
> Thanks Mark I agree with your comments about needing a floating line and
on 
> practicing with various systems and techniques so people can get skilled
enough 
> to start a tow quickly in an emergency situation.  Don Dimond and I
taught a 
> towing clinic so we had the chance to look into the various towing
systems and 
> techniques in depth.  We of course have our own preferences and
prejudices so 
> not everyone will agree with us.  We feel that for most Great Lakes
paddlers a 
> 30 to 50 foot tow line is sufficient and longer lines just add more bulk.

> However if you think you will be towing in very large seas a line over 50
feet 
> might be in order.  More line gives you more options, but a long line
gets 
> bulky unless you want to compromise by using a small diameter.
>      
> I prefer to only pay out as much line as needed since the more rope there
is in 
> the water the greater the drag and wasted energy.  However it is worth
noting 
> that in a following sea you may need to pay out the full length to keep
from 
> getting overtaken by the towed kayak.  When heading into the wind a
shorter 
> length is in order.  Also you take the emotional state of the person you
are 
> assisting into account - the closer they are to you the better if their 
> confidence has been shaken.
>      
> I can't stress enough the importance of a shock cord in the system.  A
friend 
> of mine towed someone five miles in 10 to 15 foot seas without a shock
cord on 
> his tow line.  He said when the boats decided to head down opposite sides
of a 
> wave it felt like being rear-ended in a car accident.  He is lucky he did
not 
> peel the deck off his kayak in one of these impacts.  The average towing
force 
> is normally less than 10 pounds, so it is the sudden shocks that need to
be 
> damped out of the system - a thicker rope is not needed for greater
strength, 
> but thicker lines are easier to pull on forcefully bare handed, and if
rubbed 
> or frayed they are less likely to part when you need them most ( use as a
heavy 
> a line as you can, as long as it does not get to bulky).
>      
> For long tows a deck mounted rig is less tiring than a waist mount.  Keep
in 
> mind a Caribiner is not a suitable quick release since it will not open
under 
> tension.  There are some great Cam-cleat deck mount rigs that you can
release 
> one-handed while upside down and disoriented, and most commercial waist
tows 
> have quick release buckles.  The big advantage to a waist tow is that
unlike a 
> deck mounted system you can give it to someone else and have them tow
you!  It 
> seems like I always end up on the hard work side of the tow line! 
Although 
> Caribiners are workable I think they are a bit bulky and can tend to jam
after 
> abuse and exposure to saltwater.  I have used some smaller stainless
steel 
> clips that I found in the sailing gear at Boat US ( Halyard clips???)
which are 
> a bit expensive, but seem to be just the ticket.
>      
> Mark Stirling wrote:
>      
> > I strongly suggest that people get out there and try out a few tow 
> > ropes.  I have both 100" foot homemade and a 60 foot Northwater
> > systems towrope.  Both are equipped with stainless caribiners at each 
> > end and floats.  A sinking rope is next to useless in rough
> > conditions.  Clearly someone needing towing is likely incapacitated
> > and reaching into the water to pick up a sinking line puts that person 
> > at greater than necessary risk of capsize. The concept of the biner is 
> > that you can paddle past the distressed kayak and clip it on almost
> > instantly without fuss.  The strain actually comes on gradually not 
> > with any sudden jerk if your towline is of reasonable length.  The 
> > lines I'm using  are of 7/16" and 1/2" diameter and the strength is 
> > more than adequate.  The primary consideration is handling.  The
> > length to be paid out is to allow the towed kayak to be at the same 
> > relative position on its wave as the kayak towing.  This minimizes
> > stress and makes towing any distance much easier.  I use an around the 
> > waist belt attachment with quick release buckle.  I have seem some
> > deck mounted arrangements but have been doubtful about  their quick
> > release ability which may be necessary in surf etc.  I believe a quick 
> > release arrangement to be superior to the "weak link" concepts
> > proposed.  Again the best way is to get out in expected conditions
> > somewhere safe (i.e. safe beach with onshore wind in rough conditions) 
> > and practice so you can use your rescue systems with ease and
> > confidence.
> >
> > Mark
> >
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> Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] floating tow rope
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