Hi everyone, Just finished building another greenland paddle after breaking my last one after about 3 hours of use. I fiberglassed the other one and figured since it didnt seem to help at all with strength why bother? The wood is Teak (a very lucky driftwood find) and I was thinking linseed oil might be the way to go to give it a nice finish. Anyone got any suggestions? I'd kind of like to keep that natural look. appreciate your time, Robin Lovelock Still building junk in Mobile Al. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
> The wood is Teak (a very lucky driftwood find) and I was > thinking linseed oil might be the way to go to > give it a nice finish. Anyone got any suggestions? I'd kind of > like to keep that natural look. Hi Robin, My first greenland was(is) Douglas Fir. When it got wet the wood fiber had a tendancy to pull off, so I coated it in epoxy (just wiped on a thin layer) and then sanded it lightly back just enough to touch the wood after it cured. This helped to prevent the tear outs of the wood when wet, but keep the feel of natural wood. This doesn't make it any stronger or resistant to dings. I've heard linseed oil is good because you can soak the paddle in warm water to help pull out the dings. My second greenland is Red Cedar. Lighter in weight and less strong. It seems strong enough for my uses, but I doubt it would take much to break it if I used it to pry anything. I finished this one the same way, but didn't sand the epoxy down after it cured. I liked the shine enough that I went back and put a thin skin of epoxy back on the first paddle. The shine coat also helps keep mud from discoloring the wood. When warm weather gets here and I start paddling without my gloves I may sand them back down on the loom and tips of the root if I have any problems with blisters. In my case, at $13 - $20 each for the wood, they're cheap enough to experiment with. I bet the Teak looks great. I used Chuck Holst's plans (thanks Chuck!), easy to understand and build. Took me about 8 hours using just a block plane and a spoke shave (not counting the time it took to glue up 2 1x4 boards). Did you design your own or use plans? After a few months I'd like to hear the results of whatever finish you choose. Woody *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
In a message dated 2/25/99 4:20:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, woodardr_at_tidalwave.net writes: << I used Chuck Holst's plans (thanks Chuck!), easy to understand and build. Took me about 8 hours using just a block plane and a spoke shave (not counting the time it took to glue up 2 1x4 boards). Did you design your own or use plans? >> Woody, I LOOSELY based my design off of two articles from the net, one by George Ellis and one by Gordon Brown (Thanks if yall are out there some where!). Mainly I just used their table of sizes according to paddler height and ad- libbed from there. Has that epoxy broken down from UV exposure at all? I've heard rumors that it will. The teak has turned out to be pretty nice looking, and isnt as heavy as one would expect from Teak. Nonetheless, my Trapezius muscles do get quite a workout on a day's paddlin'. thanks for the advice, robin. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
Robin wrote: > Has that epoxy broken down from UV exposure > at all? I've heard rumors that it will. It hasn't yet, but it has only been on for a month. I suspect it will. I've also heard that you shouldn't varnish a wood paddle if you paddle bare handed. The hard finish of a varnish can cause your hands to develop blisters. I would follow Chuck's advice oil it down and finish it with steel wool. My paddles were mainly practice paddles to see if I could make them. They turned out so well that they have replaced my other 2 paddles and now carry one of the breakdown paddles only as a spare. They were much easier than I thought to make so I'm now looking for that "perfect" 2x4 to make a 3rd paddle. 8^) Woody *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
I'm no expert on greenland paddles, I've got 1 and 1/2 completed so far. The first, which is still incomplete is douglas fir. The second, which I used regularly, was made from a 1" x 8" x 8' of poplar with a piece of 1" x 2" x 4' oak laminated to each side to provide support for the loom and a portion of the paddle blades. I used the dimensions provided in George Ellis' paddle making class and the choice of woods and lamination technique was suggested by two more experienced greenland paddle making friends. The initial cutting of the boards and lamination took about an hour. I then used a hand plane to make it look like a paddle. The poplar trims down in no time at all while the oak is much harder to shape with the hand plane. This phase took another two hours or so. After sanding, I used a marine teak oil to finish it. Greg H. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
I've >also heard that you shouldn't varnish a wood paddle if you paddle bare >handed. The hard finish of a varnish can cause your hands to develop >blisters. > >Woody If you varnish your paddle take some fine stell wool OOO or OOOO and take the shine off and you will not be bothered by those blisters. Dana *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
Robin, I have made a couple of greenland paddles out of redwood, and they are lightweight and strong. With both of them I have done a lot of rolling, high braces, hard paddling, and surf launches and landings, and they have held up well. I didn't even have to spoil the wood with epoxy. I just used about 10 coats of tung oil for a beautiful and natural finish. Every few trips, I put a fresh coat on. By the way, I have to credit my friend Rick Rubio from Kayak Builders of Southern California for the tung oil idea. Good luck! Duane Strosaker Southern California *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
At 07:30 PM 2/25/99 -0500, Gratytshrk_at_aol.com wrote: SNIP >I LOOSELY based my design off of two articles from the net, one by George >Ellis and one by Gordon Brown (Thanks if yall are out there some where!). Robin, How about posting where to find these articles? Thanks. Bill Leonhardt *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
I had a western cedar greenland paddle finished in just teak oil. After I used it a couple of times the grain started coming up. A friend of mine coated it in clear epoxy. I also had a laminated greenlad paddle of spruce and I think cherry. It was finished in wax. Grain came up on that one too. Now it's covered in the same clear epoxy. Jury is still out on both. I liked the teak oil best for it's feel. The wax looked nice at first, but just didn't work. I'm eagar to hear what others have done. Barbara At 05:53 PM 2/25/99 EST, Gratytshrk_at_aol.com wrote: >Hi everyone, >Just finished building another greenland paddle after breaking my last one >after about 3 hours of use. I fiberglassed the other one and figured since it >didnt seem to help at all with strength why bother? The wood is Teak (a very >lucky driftwood find) and I was thinking linseed oil might be the way to go to >give it a nice finish. Anyone got any suggestions? I'd kind of like to keep >that natural look. >appreciate your time, >Robin Lovelock >Still building junk in Mobile Al. >*************************************************************************** >PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List >Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net >Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net >Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ >*************************************************************************** > > * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * --*--*--*-- Sea Kayak Italia - Elba, Italy http://www.seakayakitaly.com tel. 650-728-8720 fax 650-728-8753 bkossy_at_igc.org * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- *--* --*-- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
Three coats of varnish, e.g. Zspar Captain's, has always held up well on my paddles. The first paddle I made several years ago as a prototype for myself, out of white cedar and a bit of Phillipine mahogany, is still my favorite with just the right springiness and lightness. Still using it though I've worn at least 1/4" width off each blade edge from punching through ice and shoving off beaches. *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
I coated one with fiberglass and epoxy. 3 layers of marine vanish were not enough to avoid that milky look that epoxy gets with UV light. My storm paddle originally had no epoxy nor fiberglass, but only 2 coats of spar varnish; the grain came out eventually. 2 years ago I sanded it again, and gave 10 coats of marine spar varnish. That did it. My storm paddle has been smooth and shinny ever since. - Julio > and I think cherry. It was finished in wax. Grain came up on that one too. > Now it's covered in the same clear epoxy. Jury is still out on both. I liked > the teak oil best for it's feel. > The wax looked nice at first, but just didn't work. > I'm eagar to hear what others have done. > Barbara *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
My last two Greenland paddles were make of red cedar and I paddled with them (fresh water) all last summer without putting any finish on them. I had to sand them after the first few times out, but then they were fine. I just like the look and feel of the natural wood. I used John Heath's article in Sea Kayaker magazine as a reference and in it he states "no finish is necessary, but that is optional". I enjoy making the paddles so each paddle is an interesting experiment. frank *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ *************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
I think that an oil finish might be the only workable idea in the long run. Teak is such an oily wood that I'm not sure whether an epoxy would be able to form a good bond. The same goes with a wax finish. Teak can be varnished, but it definitely wouldn't have that "natural" look. The nice thing about an oil finish is that it's not difficult to apply a new coat. Just my .02 Dave Seng Juneau, Alaska > >At 05:53 PM 2/25/99 EST, Gratytshrk_at_aol.com wrote: >>Hi everyone, >>Just finished building another greenland paddle after breaking my last one >>after about 3 hours of use. I fiberglassed the other one and figured since it >>didnt seem to help at all with strength why bother? The wood is Teak (a very >>lucky driftwood find) and I was thinking linseed oil might be the way to go to >>give it a nice finish. Anyone got any suggestions? I'd kind of like to keep >>that natural look. >>appreciate your time, >>Robin Lovelock >>Still building junk in Mobile Al. >>************************************************************************** * >>PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List >>Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net >>Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net >>Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ >>************************************************************************** * >> >> >* -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * --*--*--*-- > Sea Kayak Italia - Elba, Italy > http://www.seakayakitaly.com > tel. 650-728-8720 fax 650-728-8753 > bkossy_at_igc.org >* -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- * -- *--* --*-- > >*************************************************************************** >PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List >Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net >Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net >Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ >*************************************************************************** *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/ ***************************************************************************
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