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From: Karen H. <magpi_at_access1.net>
subject: [Paddlewise] K-Light assembly
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 16:57:23 -0800
I just compared written assembly instructions to the Feathercraft video
assembly and notice that while the coaming is installed as step 9 in the
written instructions (before the large crossribs are installed), the
video version installs the coaming at something like step 13.... AFTER
the crossribs are installed. I have been following written instructions
exactly. I wonder if that might be contributing to the difficulty I have
getting the crossribs in place? I will try next assembly as performed in
the video....
Karen
-- 
Karen Hancock
San Clemente, CA
magpi_at_access1.net
949/487-2602
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From: David Seng <David_at_wainet.com>
subject: RE: [Paddlewise] K-Light assembly
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:09:10 -0900
> From: Karen H. [mailto:magpi_at_access1.net]

snip

> video version installs the coaming at something like step 13.... AFTER
> the crossribs are installed. I have been following written 
> instructions
> exactly.


STEP 13!!!  sheesh.

Now I remember why I paddle a hardshell<vbg>:

Step 1 - Take Kayak off of truck
Step 2 - Carry Kayak to shoreline
Step 3 - Get in Kayak and paddle

Dave Seng
Juneau, Alaska





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From: <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] K-Light assembly
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:23:07 -0800
Karen H. wrote:
> 
> I just compared written assembly instructions to the Feathercraft video
> assembly and notice that while the coaming is installed as step 9 in the
> written instructions (before the large crossribs are installed), the
> video version installs the coaming at something like step 13.... AFTER
> the crossribs are installed. I have been following written instructions
> exactly. I wonder if that might be contributing to the difficulty I have
> getting the crossribs in place? I will try next assembly as performed in
> the video....
> Karen

I always put the coaming on after the frame is fully in place with all
crossribs in position.  But make certain that the webbing straps that
hooking around the crossribs are NOT connected prior to putting on the
coaming.  If the straps are connected first, they may hinder putting the
deck bead into the slot on the coaming.

I have not seen the videos in awhile but I do know that the written
instruction did have the coaming put on earlier.  That is kind of a
holdover mentally from the first version of the K-Light.  That boat had
a  real tight skin and an aluminum two piece coaming.  That arrangement
did not hold the deck real well.  You actually put the coaming on just
after inserting the frame halves and before you even extended the
keelbar.  Otherwise you would hardly have a hope of putting on the
coaming afterwards.

ralph
-- 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Ralph Diaz . . . Folding Kayaker newsletter
PO Box 0754, New York, NY 10024
Tel: 212-724-5069; E-mail: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com
"Where's your sea kayak?"----"It's in the bag."
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

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From: Benno Jones <bennoj_at_accessone.com>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] K-Light assembly
Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:36:47 -0800
I noticed that the first time I put my K-Light together.  I finally decided
the video method made more sense.  I also e-mailed Feathercraft about the
discrepancy and received a reply that they'd look into it.


-----Original Message-----
From: Karen H. <magpi_at_access1.net>
To: Paddlewise <paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net>
Date: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 5:32 PM
Subject: [Paddlewise] K-Light assembly


>I just compared written assembly instructions to the Feathercraft video
>assembly and notice that while the coaming is installed as step 9 in the
>written instructions (before the large crossribs are installed), the
>video version installs the coaming at something like step 13.... AFTER
>the crossribs are installed. I have been following written instructions
>exactly. I wonder if that might be contributing to the difficulty I have
>getting the crossribs in place? I will try next assembly as performed in
>the video....
>Karen
>--
>Karen Hancock
>San Clemente, CA
>magpi_at_access1.net
>949/487-2602
>***************************************************************************
>PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List
>Submissions:     paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
>Subscriptions:   paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net
>Website:         http://www.gasp-seakayak.net/paddlewise/
>***************************************************************************
>

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From: keith kaste <kkaste_at_digitalnature.net>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] K-Light assembly
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 1999 16:12:29 -0800
Guess I'm a little late for this thread.  Been busy .....

I think the K-Light might just go down in the history books as the best
folding
kayak ever invented.  Yes there are a number of steps to get the thing
assembled, but there are a lot of advantages to a folder (first and
foremost:
they fly -- albeit in the baggage compartment).  I didn't read all the
posts on
this thread but my two cents is to get the hatches -- both forward and aft.
They can be added on at the factory.

Megan and I bought our K-Lights about a year and a half ago.  I saw the
advantage to getting the rear hatch because it would aid in stuffing gear
into
the stern area.  She opted for a forward hatch in addition to the rear
hatch.
I couldn't see the point (who needs a hatch when you don't have bulkheads?)
and
opted to save $50 or so by leaving it out.  After a couple trips with the
boats
I air shipped my boat back to Vancouver to have the front hatch installed
(cost
me $100, but it was well worth it).  Besides the obvious reason to have
hatches
you also get the ability to move the bow and stern frame pieces into
position
much more easily.  You can also get at the air bags much more readily, and
it's
easier to connect the final frame tubes into the fore and aft frame
structures.  And the hatch design is totally cool.  No way water's getting
in
that way.

A couple other points.  There is a little velcro strap along the keel seam
both
fore and aft.  I find if I strap it loosely around the keel tube when the
frame
pieces are still about 6 or 8 inches from their final destination it helps
to
guide the frame into place and keeps the skin symmetrical side to side.
Also,
if you are following the instructions, I believe you install the frame
behind
the seat last.  Getting the shear line tubes up and into place could be the
hardest part of the assembly, especially the very last one.  What seems to
work
for me is to grab the back of the coaming in one hand and the frame behind
the
seat in the other and push down on the frame while pulling up on the
coaming.
In this way you sort of ooch any slack in the skin up toward the top of the
boat.  Be gentle but firm.  After doing this, the last tube seems to
eagerly
jump into place.

The K-Light is an amazing boat and defies all reason as to why it is so
fast
and fun to paddle.  If you're in the market for a folding boat give this
one
serious consideration.  Standard disclaimer:  I have no affiliation with
Feathercraft whatsoever except that I am a satisfied customer.

Hope that helps.  Ralph, if any of that made sense, you have my permission
to
use it in your folding kayak newsletter.

"Karen H." wrote:

> I just compared written assembly instructions to the Feathercraft video
> assembly and notice that while the coaming is installed as step 9 in the
> written instructions (before the large crossribs are installed), the
> video version installs the coaming at something like step 13.... AFTER
> the crossribs are installed. I have been following written instructions
> exactly. I wonder if that might be contributing to the difficulty I have
> getting the crossribs in place? I will try next assembly as performed in
> the video....
> Karen
> --
> Karen Hancock
> San Clemente, CA
> magpi_at_access1.net
> 949/487-2602
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