I'm forwarding this for Doug Lloyd whose ISP is having some problems delivering his messages to PaddleWise... Jackie ----- Begin Included Message ----- >From dlloyd_at_inetex.com Fri Jul 2 02:05 PDT 1999 X-Sender: dlloyd_at_inetex.com Date: Thu, 01 Jul 1999 23:55:51 -0700 Subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Successful Paddle-Float Re-entry Mime-Version: 1.0 >This thread commenced thus: >> Yesterday my partner David, our friend Eli, and I, all relative beginners, >> took our boats out in a quiet lake and practiced paddle-float re-entries >> for the first time. We knew the theory, but it took a lot of trial and >> error before Eli and I were able to successfully perform re-entries.<big snipola>. > >N.B. (My ISP is having problems with my postings to PW, so hopefully Jackie will post this reply for me). > >I've spent the entire winter researching and testing the paddle float rescue, and the more successful paddle float fixed-outrigger rescue. The fruit of this labor should appear in the October issue of SK Magazine. I also run paddle float clinics occasionally, and include in my demos a number of kayak simulation decks, set up with the various web-strap and bungie systems from the better designers (with custom modifications shown where needed). > >The following are my responses in point form to the questions and issues raised in the recent thread: > >1. While you can make an argument for keeping as much water in your kayak's cockpit as possible in order to have the deck lower to sea level - and therefore make it easier to reboard those high volume yaks, I personally find it easier to reboard a less swamped kayak. Additionally, I really don't think the vast majority of paddlers, especially weaker ones (not meant as a slight-just a real-life observation), realize just how strenuous pumping out a reasonably sized, flooded cockpit to the point of a couple of inches of water can be, let alone in a real life situation with cold, cramping arms. It's bloody hard work, mates! And, it takes a while, too. So, get rid of the excess water prior to reboarding, but only if you have the time and technique, otherwise don't fuss. > >2. There are a number of techniques for emptying water other than those mentioned. The stern-push-and-twist works well with some boats, usually unloaded. With a bulkhead just behind the seat, the bow-lift is another favorite. The trick is having enough buoyancy to be able to perform the maneuver. You can use your paddle float attached to paddle, and place it under your arm or hook the arrangement around the side of your neck as you lift the bow - don't ask me which works best, 'cause I'm just going to tell you to go out and experiment. I carry a Sea Seat, which I can also get on and then I have LOTS of buoyancy for doing the bow-lift. The most common approach which negates scooping too much water places you beside the overturned kayak. You then place the paddle (perhaps with float on) between you and the kayak. Now reach the upturned cockpit rim closest to you. Slowly rotate the kayak so it is sitting on its edge - it may take a bit of slow lifting to overcome the suction of the cockpit. Now push upwards and away with a rapid motion, but don't let go of the kayak! Other methods of rotating the kayak may scoop too much water. Again, experiment. > >3. In order to keep yourself low, which is very important (especially with the often heavier upper body weight of a male paddler), always keep your head low *and* your eyes on the paddle float - this ensures that the maneuver is done correctly as it tends to prevent you over-balancing to the non-outrigger side while rotating back in. > >4. Most advise given maintains that you should keep lots of weight on the paddle/float. Yes, you must maintain weight on the outrigger, and the rougher it is, the more weight required. The problem is that too much weight will submerge your float or worse, break a paddle. I was running a clinic two weeks ago and did just that - broke a paddle demonstrating how to do the less effective, non-fixed method. I slipped back off the deck, putting too much weight on the paddle shaft, and snapped my new glass fibre Lendal in a micro second (how *not* to do a float rescue, as one student surmised!). The trick is to put your weight on the boat, not the float, while maintaining some weight on the outrigger. Now we are talking balance, which means practice, lots of it. >(Many students who participate in paddle float clinics are dismayed that for some of them, it can be very difficult to perform the rescue to completion. This is good, not bad. It lets them realise how difficult the rescue can be, and that's just in a warm lake. They often have carried floats for years, figuring as long as they knew the theory...) > >5. High volume kayaks are usually wider, making the above balancing situation a little easier but, it is more difficult to get up out of the water in the first place on the higher deck. The sling idea works well, but it can rotate the boat over again if the float lacks sufficient buoyancy (some home made ones are too small). A comment was made that slings around the coaming should be restricted to plastic kayaks only. This is good advice if you have a light weight layup, etc. However, don't dismiss this option too rapidly. A sling distributes weight all the way around the rim. But, if the boat is still too flimsy for the sling option, perhaps you will also have other rescue problems too - like, some decks/coamings are so flimsy, it even makes an assisted rescue dicey where weight is placed on the deck during reboarding. Stay on calm lakes? > >6. Deck rigging. I picked up Seawards new web straps. I visited their factory this past weekend. They have replaced the regular fastex buckle with a curved version made for dog collars. It is strong enough. The advantage with the new buckle is that it allows a much more natural angle for the nylon web strap, but once tightened, stays that way. I also have the Nimbus system which uses the fastex buckle, but has a quick release pull tab. It is very easy to use, with respect to reaching behind to undo the fixed outrigger. Pacific Water Sports in Seattle, from what I understand, don't sell their Lee Moyer kayaks with rescue bungies or straps. They prefer the T-cleat and Jam-cleat method, which I also demonstrate and admire. > >7. My wife is worried about me. I've been playing with buckles and straps in my work shop for the last few months, working out the kinks, and she thinks I'm getting a little kinky too. Now at dinner time, she won't even listen to me while I discuss the pros nd cons of polyester vs nylon webbing - spouses, they just don't understand deck rescue system fetishes! > >BC'in Ya >Doug Lloyd > > ----- End Included Message ----- *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************
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