RE: [Paddlewise] rolling Yakama bars

Joan -
Consider yourself lucky!  I have been having the same problem but when I
called Yakima, they basically said it was my fault for not tightening the
bolt tight enough.  I explained that I had taken it back to the store a
couple of times and had (very strong) others try to fix it.  They ended the
conversation with "Too bad.  Try and tighten it some more by first
lubricating the bolt area".  I explained that the plastic on the x-bars was
ripped up and they said I would have to go through the store where I
originally purchased it for a waranty replacement (if it would apply).
Although I have always used Yakima in the past, I never will in the future.
For those in the purchasing pipeline, chose your manufacturer carefully.

Debbie Reeves
Sandy Hook, NJ

> ----------
> From: 	Joan Spinner[SMTP:JSpinner_at_agu.org]
> 
> An update:
>     I just can't get the Yakama bars not to rotate! I'm very frustrated.
> My
> feelings have been soothed by excellent customer service by Yakama,
> though.
>     I called Yakama last May and they sent new bars and screws. They did
> everything
> to get help for me but eventually I got two new bars. I only replaced the
> back bar
> because it was the worst offender and when I looked at the front bar the
> plastic
> wasn't  too chewed up. I feared this wasn't going to work and wanted the
> back-up. I
> had to put that second bar on the rack three weeks ago. It started rolling
> around
> this past weekend.
>     When I called in May I guessed that it was the towers so this time
> they said
> that they would be sending new towers and bars and screws, the whole
> works, again.
> Do you know they do this at NO CHARGE! Nada, no S&H, not a penny and they
> are
> wonderful about it. I have dealt with two different men and they were both
> so
> helpful and took me at my word that I knew what I was talking about,
> mostly <G>.
> So, we are to phase 3 of Yakama bars and Hulley Rollers.
>     BTW, Yakama does NOT recommend the self tapping screw for exactly the
> torque
> reason. You could loose the whole assembly this way. There is the
> potential that
> some factory racks may be so insecure that the twisting of the tower, with
> no give
> at all, could deform or rip the thing right off the top of the car.
>     The towel on the saddle idea just means you loose some of the security
> of the
> saddles, so may be a question as well. In this case front and back ropes
> would be
> essential to add if they aren't already there.
> 
>     Thanks for the help, though.
> 
> Joan
> 
> Sidney_Stone_at_amsinc.com wrote:
> 
> > I screwed a self tapping sheet metal screw through the tower and into
> the
> > bar to avoid the bar rotating.  It helped a little.  I now try to lift
> the
> > kayak up more before starting to push on the rollers, which seems to
> keep
> > them from rotating.  Taking the kayak off the car I do not have any
> problem
> > with rotation.  To further put this into perspective, I drive a jeep
> grand
> > cherokee and I am 5'8"" tall, so I'm stretching some to put the kayak up
> on
> > the car.  Additionally, I've been paddling a Valley Aquila which is 18+
> > feet long and weighs 60 lbs (but I just got a Skerry SL).
> >
> > The one potential problem with screwing the tower and rod together it
> that
> > any torque may force the tower off the car.  I had this happen one time,
> > after which I modified my loading technique as described above.
> >
> > Having said all the above and now being into my second season with the
> > Yakama system, I would but the Thule in the future as square bars do not
> > rotate (at least easily).
> >
> > A friend at a kayak center suggested putting towels on the regular
> saddles
> > to help the kayak slide onto the rack.  Haven't tried this, but it may
> make
> > some sense.
> >
> 
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