Re: [Paddlewise] Self Rescue Practicein Kleppers

From: Matt Broze <mkayaks_at_oz.net>
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 1999 20:20:33 -0700
-----Original Message-----
From: rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com <rdiaz_at_ix.netcom.com>


>A couple of thoughts:
>
>--The two Peters mentioned the possibility of tow lines getting tangled
>at the rear of the towing boat.  Klepper for years has maintained that
>the flexible flag post that comes with each boat would make a good
>run-through point to avoid that.
>
>For the Klepper-deprived masses, Kleppers have a flag post about 8-10
>inches high that screws into a threaded hole in the rudder support
>bracket.  Apparently in international European travel along waters like
>the Danube, you are supposed to be flying a national flag.  The flag
>post has a spring-flexible base.  Supposedly, you tie a loop of line
>through the small hole provided for the flag tie and run the tow line
>through it.  It keeps the tow line above and away from the rudder and
>also avoides the line wrapping around the stern as it sometimes can.  I
>have never tried this use of the flag post.

The problem with running the towline through anything fastened near the
stern (or tied near the stern) is that the towed kayak will need to be
controlled by the towed paddler or it will yaw side to side and pull the
stern of the towing kayak over to one side and then the other making control
of the towing kayak far more difficult. The spring loaded mast of the
Klepper might reduce this a little because it would allow greater yaw before
the stern was pulled over (but I don't think you would find it satisfactory
and letting the towed boat yaw further might actually mean more side force
on the stern when the limits are finally reached).
>
>--I am surprised at the thought of tethering one's self to your boat
>instead of tethering the paddle or you to your paddle, which are more
>common approaches to tethering.  Interesting that it works.

If I was a solo paddler in high winds, I'd consider tethering myself to the
kayak in case I capsized and failed to roll. Also I think it is much better
to tether the paddle to the boat rather than to your wrist. That way if you
have either the paddle or the boat in your grasp you still have the other
necessary component to resuming paddling.
>
>You used a coiled surfboard leash; I am glad to see it did not entangle
>you.  The same is true for the coiled jetski cutoff switch leash I use
>to tether my paddle to the boat.  I have had one guru go into a near
>rage when he saw my jetski-origin tether saying it would entangle me but
>it hasn't.  I think sturdy, coiled tethers are far superior to the
>bungee cord or regular cord tether...they keep out of the way because
>they are coiled.  And even if one gets around your wrist by accident it
>will neither knot up tight on you (like would cord) or stretch to a
>binding grip on you as might bungee tethers.

My experience with coiled tethers (and telephone cords) is that they tangle
with themselves and sometimes this puts your paddle on a very short leash
indeed. I don't see why a coiled tether wouldn't reach the end of its
stretch at some point just like a shock cord and then possibly wrap tightly
around some part of your body. Either a shock cord or a coiled tether is far
less likely to entrap one as a non-stretchy cord. I use about a 30" tether
of 3/16" shock cord that can stretch to twice its length or more (and a
nylon hook). It stores wrapped around the middle of my paddle shaft where it
is always quickly available. It is very lightweight, and opposed to the
coiled kind, doesn't go clack, clack, clack on the deck with every stroke
when in use. Also it never tangles with itself or drags in the water. Since
it is tied to the paddle shaft it has a very secure attachment that I trust
more than Velcro. Tie it tightly enough so it doesn't slide around on the
shaft when you paddle but can be slid to one side should you want to--like
maybe when doing a paddle-float rescue without detatching the tether. It is
simple to make using under $2.00 worth of materials (about 3.5 feet of shock
cord and a $.69 nylon hook. I push the cord through the nylon clip and tie a
figure eight knot to stop it from pulling through the hole. I tie it on the
paddle end with a bowline. Easy to do in advance for a two piece paddle but
difficult to tie under tension to a one piece paddle (tight enough so it
doesn't slide around).
Matt Broze
http://www.marinerkayaks.com




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Received on Thu Sep 09 1999 - 20:28:31 PDT

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