Re: [Paddlewise] Weatherhelm

From: 735769 <735769_at_ican.net>
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:34:30 -0400
As I mentioned earlier, I  think most rudders and skegs could use some
improvement.

Many skegs fit rather loosely in their trunks and have rough or irregular
edges. I believe the vibration (singing skeg or rudder) that some develop
usually results (not sure that other causes of vibration apply to kayaks
given their low speeds) from vortices shed off the trailing edge. Sailors
cured this problem by shaping the leading and trailing edges carefully. In
all my years of boat building and sailing I never found a case of singing
rudder or centerboard that reshaping the edges could not cure. In general
one wants a leading radius of around 1.5% of the chord length for rudders. I
suspect the same would apply to skegs where the boat has a tendency toward a
lot of leeway (in excess of 7 degrees).  Sharp or squared off at an angle
trailing edges work nicely.

Of course, one should have a rigid rudder head. To me the floppy rudder
heads cause a lot of problems including wear an tear on the system and poor
response.

Both skegs and rudders work best when they have proper section shape. The
ubiquitous (among sailors) NACA 0006 and 0012 airfoils seem to work just
fine. If they didn't a sailboat race would sound like a giant kazoo band
engaging in a game of bumper cars.

Improper shaping (mostly flat plates) causes most of the ventilation that
increases drag in  a big way.  Nicely rounded leading edges and a fuller
foil like the NACA 0012 just about eliminate it for all but the most
aggressive turning actions. Back when I was racing 505's I experimented with
an NACA  a section supplied by a friend at NASA and despite all reasonable
efforts I could not make that rudder ventilate. The section was the same as
that used on the U-2 spy plane wing and designed for high lift. I believe
(but won't swear to it) that the section was designated NACA 2006.

I have modified flat plate rudders by gluing wood on each side and then
shaping the blade. A little varnish and it looks rather sexy and works
better too.

I prefer rudders with stops that prohibit turning the rudder more than 20
degrees. This reduces the possibility of ventilation considerably.

If one uses the rudder more like a  trim tab and set it at an angle to hold
a course rather than wiggling it back and forth all the time it seems to
work quite well (someone mentioned that earlier but I cannot recall who).
Interestingly the Inuit seemed to have used their rudders this way. They had
control lines running around the front of the cockpit that they must have
adjusted and left since one can't paddle and handle lines at the same time.
Can learn a lot from those Inuit.

Managed to dig out the paper on the International sailing canoe tests. For
those who want to get it search for Tanner, T. , Full Scale Tank Tests of an
International 10 Sq. Meter Class Canoe, Royal Institution of Naval
Architects, 1960,

Unfortunately they printed the graphs in such a small scale that taking
information off results in lots of error not to mention the error due to
normal distortions of copies etc. Doing the best I could for 5 degrees of
leeway I got  a 1.8% increase in drag at 2 knots, 11.4% increase at 3 knots
and 14% increase at 4 knots.

Now, don't go off and quote me on those saying that John Winters said that
Blah blah blah % blah% blah% !!!!!! First off, even Tanner admitted to some
problems in fairing the data and my take-off certainly won't win any awards
for precision. In any case, the graphs do suggest that leeway can result in
considerable added resistance and that it may even pay to design boats with
small keels or hull shapes that resist leeway.

Lots of options here and fun for designers, builders, and advertising copy
writers.

Cheers,
John Winters
Redwing Designs
Web site address, http://home.ican.net/~735769





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Received on Wed Oct 06 1999 - 06:43:29 PDT

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