PaddleWise by thread

From: Dave Williams <paddler_at_loxinfo.co.th>
subject: [Paddlewise] Laos
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 09:15:54 +0700
Here's a trip description for my recent trip to Laos:

Laos represents everything that Southeast Asia could be.  It's quiet;  Life
is slow and easy.  Even the capital, Vientiane, is anything but a big noisy
megalopolis.  Lao also has a very low population density.  Except for a few
towns, most of the population resides in agrarian villages. Geologically
speaking, Lao is made up mainly of mountains and rivers.

My partner Roy and I went on an exploratory trip to try and find some rivers
near Vientiane.  We had a couple of leads, but we were relying on a Lao
friend of ours and a contact we had made through email.  It would prove to
pay off big-time.

We arrived in Vientiane and immediately felt relaxed. The Lao people are
friendly and as helpful as they can be.  We contacted our Lao friend and our
new contact and arranged for some excursions.

On the first day, we drove out of Vientiane toward Vang Vieng.  We stopped
along to way to visit some recently discovered Buddhist images carved into
the cliff-sides.  They were discovered when a road was cut into the jungle
for harvesting trees.  One of the most interesting aspects of this "find" is
the fact that the date etched into the stone predates what was thought to be
the beginning of Buddhism in Lao by 1,000 years!

We carried on and arrived at Vang Vieng.  This is the former CIA airstrip
where they did all the 'legal' gun and drug running.  Vang Vieng is on the
Nam Song river.  We drove upstream 20 kilometers to the put-in.  This river
is runnable only during the rainy season.  October is near the end of that
season.  There was still plenty of water.

It was quite pleasant with a gentle flow and an occasional wave-train.  We
saw some Common Sandpipers, White Wagtails, Chinese Pond Herons, Little
Herons, and Black Drongos.  We paddled past villagers working their rice
fields.  Every single one made it a point to wave at us as we passed.  We
also saw a very vivid double rainbow arching from one massive mountain to
another!

We arrived at Vang Vieng a little after sunset.  As usual, we were met by a
lot of children.  They most likely hadn't seen kayaks before.  We weren't in
real kayaks however.  Our buddy has several Sevylor inflatables.  They're
not much fun to paddle, but they're easy to transport.

The next day, we hooked up with our Lao friend to explore another river -
the Nam Lik.  He took us well past where we were the day before.  The Nam
Lik river has water in it all year.  We met the village headman at the
village where we hope to start our river trip the next time we're in Lao.
The children raced out of their classrooms to see us foreigners.  We were
surrounded by beautiful little kids.  They were very shy, but their
curiosity couldn't keep them from getting closer to us.  Eventually, we won
them over with smiles and what little Lao language we knew.

The is a larger river than the Nam Song.  It's still a small river, but
bigger than what I would call a creek.  We did some trekking to a bend in
the river where we were told there would be a rapid.  Well, it wasn't much
of a rapid, but that's not what we were there for… this time.

The scenery in this part of Lao is outstanding.  It's like being in the
middle of a 360 degree postcard.  There are huge limestone karst formations
climbing straight up into the clouds with lush verdant valleys below.  There
are large areas of rice paddies everywhere.  Water buffalo and cattle roam
freely amongst the lowland vegetation.  Villages are small.  Bicycles seem
to be the main mode of transportation.  Tacraw is popular in Lao.  Tacraw is
a game like volleyball except the players use their feet and head to volley
a wicker ball back and forth across a chest-level net.  It isn't easy to say
the least.

We will return to do this second river next month.  Sometime in the future,
we hope to paddle the Mekong below the falls.  There are freshwater dolphins
in these waters and according to our buddy, they are common.

Cheers,
Dave

Dave Williams
dave_at_paddleasia.com
http://paddleasia.com
Phuket, Thailand

***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not
to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission
Submissions:     paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
Subscriptions:   paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net
Website:         http://www.paddlewise.net/
***************************************************************************
From: Steve Cramer <cramer_at_coe.uga.edu>
subject: Re: [Paddlewise] Laos
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 08:52:55 -0400
Dave Williams wrote:
> 
> On the first day, we drove out of Vientiane toward Vang Vieng.  We stopped
> along to way to visit some recently discovered Buddhist images carved into
> the cliff-sides.  They were discovered when a road was cut into the jungle
> for harvesting trees.  One of the most interesting aspects of this "find" is
> the fact that the date etched into the stone predates what was thought to be
> the beginning of Buddhism in Lao by 1,000 years!

How recent is recent? Those sound like the images we vistied in 1975,
when we (me, Meg, and 10 month old daughter) were among the last
American tourists in Laos for a long time. Sort of squarish Buddhas,
gilded--or at least colored gold?

We had to hike in with a 10-year-old as a guide. Crossed at leasst
single-log bridge, as I recall.

Steve
***************************************************************************
PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not
to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission
Submissions:     paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
Subscriptions:   paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net
Website:         http://www.paddlewise.net/
***************************************************************************

This archive was generated by hypermail 2.4.0 : Thu Aug 21 2025 - 16:33:04 PDT