RE: [Paddlewise] Under The Waves

As a follow up to that story about the woman who severely dislocated her shoulder helping Dave teach his surf class was out kayaking in Nanaimo circumnavigating Newcastle Island.

Kirby Stevens


Coastal Waters Recreation
Victoria, B.C.
Website: http://www.coastalwatersrec.com/maps/

-----Original Message-----
From:	Doug Lloyd [SMTP:dlloyd_at_bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent:	Monday, November 22, 1999 12:35 AM
To:	paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net
Subject:	[Paddlewise] Under The Waves

Leaving the house early this Sunday morning to co-facilitate a
sea-kayak-specific surf course, my 6-year old daughter shouted from the
breakfast table "don't get caught under the waves, Daddy". Well, I did, but
only once my little Emily.

Dave and myself had already spent Saturday night at the Victoria Canoe &
Kayak Club with the interested members, going over safety, gear, surf
etiquette, wave dynamics, and the all-important question of differences
with respect to *sea kayak* surfing vs using river kayaks. Even though only
more advanced paddlers were being catered to (had to have a certain
predetermined skill-set), a bit of fear was evident when we ran the video
of John Lull's excellent primer on surf kayaking. Assurances were given
that we wouldn't be subjecting anyone to Tsunami Ranger stunts. Out motto
was "challenge-by-choice". Fears assuaged, we all headed home for a good
night's rest.

Our number had diminished to seven by the time we all arrived up at Jordan
River near the entrance to Juan de Fuca. At 8:30 am, a gently spilling two
to three foot break on a rising tide was perfect for the mostly
first-timers. The whole purpose was to get "non-surfers" out in their sea
kayaks, and get them comfortable dealing with the surf zone. Numerous
courses are available for full-on surfing where kayak surfing is an
end-unto-itself, but we wanted to offer something pragmatic and milder - a
kinder, gentler surf course, so that touring kayakers would be more
encouraged to take on exposed coasts without fearing surf-landings. We
wanted to accommodate people who normally avoid the macho type surf courses
and then disadvantage themselves for other venues.

Dave did a beach-talk about surf-zone dynamics, about always looking over
your shoulder, while I played in the surf-zone as a visual cue. Head
protection was mandatory, with the usual assortment of impromptu bike and
hockey helmets showing up. We then had the students do 15 minutes of
stretching exercises, including legs, back, arms, shoulders, neck, and even
wrists. Next, Dave took everyone out for a swim in the surf, instructing
them how to dive under waves and body surf back in, how to swim and deal
with the along-shore current, etc. Colder and wet (which we termed
"warmed-up!), we moved on. Next, the 5 members swam their kayaks out into
the surf and then filled the cockpits with water, then each swam their boat
back in through the surf under supervision, holding onto their bow-toggle -
stern to shoreward to prevent sudden in-filling of the cockpit and the
resultant severe jerk to arm. In the near-shore water, the kayaks had to be
emptied and safely landed on the pebble beach - body always kept to seaward.

Then, one by one, we helped each person to align themselves perpendicular
to the waves which were coming in diagonally and growing by the minute.
They launched on the last big wave's wash up the beach. Each person was
taken individually out to the medium breaks where we tripped them over just
as a big wave broke on their respective decks. We held their bow toggle,
while each person would have to quickly bail, keep a hold of paddle and
boat, and then move to the bow toggle just before the next wave hit, and
then swim the boat ashore as before. This was a most useful exercise, and
all newbies appreciated the methodology of graduated steps while overcoming
their individual fears. 

Next, we had the group come out (individually again) and then follow
instructions demonstrated on the beach just prior. They had to side-surf
the "soup" by edging their kayak. It was stressed that they needed to
low-brace into or on top of the waves with paddle, tilt their kayak so the
hull was presented to shoreward, yet they had to keep their torso vertical,
rather than lean with the boat. This avoids a capsize to seaward. By edging
the boat, a capsize to shoreward is prevented. Once through that, we moved
on the catching rides and reflexive bracing upon imminent broaching. 

The sun was out all day. A strong wind made for a certain level of
coldness.  Dave had instructed people to "pack it in" before they got too
tired, rather than when they reached the point of exhaustion - the most
likely point for an accident. Dave and I were in the water for three or so
hours teaching. His drysuit leaked at the ankles a bit and eventually he
turned a bit white. My wetsuit was great - except for the damn cold crotch.
I got in my kayak and assisted people that way in the end, before *I* got
"white". We surfed up a storm once we were able to have some free time,
Dave in his new Capella (his Arluk replacement after the Storm Island
rescue) and me in my old trusty Nordkapp. Conditions were building to 3
meters. I was able to do a few awesome 18-foot pitch-poll cart-wheels with
minimal kayak damage. We both threw in the towel about the point where we
were far too exhausted to roll back up anymore - and indeed could not or
would not (do as we say, not as we do!).

All-in-all, a good little clinic. Yes, it was painstakingly slow and cold
for Dave and I putting people through such a methodical approach, enforcing
a buddy system, and instructing one-on-one - but there were some very
satisfied ladies and gentlemen - Dave and I have a bottle of wine each to
prove it. Last surf session a gal was in the water 20 minutes with a
dislocated shoulder before being rescued. She required a number of
physicians to relocate the shoulder once transported by ambulance to the
hospital. It was good to finally be "redeemed" on such a superfine, sunny,
Sunday!

BC'in Ya
Doug Lloyd      
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