Patrick Maun <pmaun_at_bitstream.net> wrote: <SNIP> <<Lock yourself tight into the boat and roll up. If the first attempt fails, switch to an extended paddle and try again.>> Why not use the extended paddle roll the first time so there doesn't have to be a second try? When it is important that I roll back up I extend my paddle but not all the way out to a "Pawlata" (where you grab the end of one blade). I extend my hand out on the shaft until I can feel the angle of the blade with my little finger. It helps me instantly know the angle without having to feel for the oval on the shaft or slapping the blade on the surface. (I sure don't want to open my eyes in sand filled surf to have a look see. Doubt I could see anything anyway and don't want to sear my eyeballs trying.) With this mini extended roll I get greater than normal leverage without having to let go of the shaft and find the end of the blade in turbulence as with the Pawlata. It is quicker to recover your hand position once upright too (but for years I did a "Pawlata" on the river--when I really needed to get back upright in a hurry and not risk swimming the next rapid--and never got tipped again before recovering the paddling (and bracing) hand positions. Patrick Maun again concerning "Reenter and Rolling": <<Instability when upright is the biggest problem, but this is going to be a problem with a paddlefloat rescue as well. This brings us back to the topic of pumps I guess.>> Let me say this again, instability once upright is not a problem with an outrigger paddlefloat rescue (the paddle fixed to the deck perpendicular to the kayak). This to my mind is what makes it second (okay, a distant second) to Eskimo rolling but much more reliable than a Reenter and Roll or an unfixed paddle float rescue (like, unfortunately, the ACA promotes) where the paddler is unsupported in a swamped kayak and therefore much more vulnerable to capsizing again throughout the whole pumping operation which can take several minutes. Ralph mentioned the lack of suitable deck rigging on some kayaks or weak and flexible shock cord for deck rigging. True but this is usually quite easy to fix and you should do so immediately. For wimpy shock cord just buy some stiffer shock cord or the next size larger and then make an X pattern with the shock cord doubled up on the sides of the kayak ||X|| like that so you have a double layer of stiffer shock cord holding the paddle down. It is not hard to remove the paddle from this as some have suggested. I'd be more worried about the paddle slipping out while I was reentering or pumping out (so I usually put a drip ring inboard of the cord during setup and simply lift the cord to the other side of the drip ring when I'm ready to level the kayak and slip the paddle out from under the cords. Actually, I prefer about 3/16" nylon or polyester cord which I find holds the paddle blade down more firmly yet has enough elasticity to make it easy to slide the paddle out once you are all pumped out, added clothing if necessary, ate something, got a drink of water, etc., etc. and are ready to go again in your now less tippy (than when swamped) kayak. If you need to, get some nylon eyelets for about 25 cents each and drill a few holes in your deck to make a hold down set up for your paddle. Nimbus Kayaks http://nimbuskayaks.com/ has a ready made setup using webbing straps and fastex buckles with a nifty way to quickly release them when you are ready to start paddling again. Their website doesn't show a close-up but you can see it best on the Telkwa Sport picture. Just four little holes in the deck are all you have to drill to set it up. I know they sell it separately from their kayaks because I liked it so much I have bought some from them to sell in our store. Of course if you are in the surf don't fasten the paddle to the deck at all and if you manage to get upright and still have your paddle, paddle to somewhere the waves aren't breaking (shore or deeper water--whichever is safest in your particular situation) with the kayak full of water rather than messing with trying to reattach the spraydeck and pumping or bailing while still in the surf zone. In the surf you are going to need to concentrate on bracing to stay upright anyhow so what's the problem with being "more tippy" on the calm water between breakers. The Nimbus website reminded me of the thread several weeks back on construction that I didn't have time to respond to. There someone labeled Vacuum-bagging as an inferior construction method used because it is cheaper when just the opposite is true. The Nimbus website has a quick rundown of some of the advantages of vacuum-bagging under "materials" for those who are interested. Matt Broze http://www.marinerkayaks.com *************************************************************************** PaddleWise Paddling Mailing List - All postings copyright the author and not to be reproduced outside PaddleWise without author's permission Submissions: paddlewise_at_lists.intelenet.net Subscriptions: paddlewise-request_at_lists.intelenet.net Website: http://www.paddlewise.net/ ***************************************************************************Received on Sat Jan 29 2000 - 00:56:38 PST
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